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Av8orntn

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So I am new to driving on a road course. I did drive my car fairly hard this weekend and used up my front brake pads with less than 2000 miles on the car. I just read through a few threads on here about track pads versus OEM pads and there doesn't seem to be a consensus on what to do. Am I doing something wrong at the track to go through the pads so fast? Is it worth it to get pads for track use only? Is there a better pad that can be used for both? Any advice here would be appreciated.
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TheDeadCow

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You're on the squeal strip already?

I have 3600mi and 3 track days so far and still some pad left on the fronts. Hoping to get through 1-2 more track days.

I haven't replaced pads yet so I can't comment on other pad brands. Usually track pads aren't recommended for street use, so if you go that route you'd need to get 2 sets (street & track).
 
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Av8orntn

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You're on the squeal strip already?
I was told that I have to have at least 50% left. It may be a local thing or not and I don't know but I was told that I absolutely do not have 50% left.

My question I guess is should I have two sets of pads and if so is there a consensus on the brand that I should use for track?
 

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Hey Av8, we are a big fan of Hawk pads here. We run DTC 70's up front and DTC 30's out back for strong consistent and stable braking on our in house cars. The DTC 70/30 setup is a great way to go for track use. I recommend the HPS 5.0 for the street, and the DTC's for the track. Changing brakes at the track is pretty minor and lets you do a last minute inspection of the suspension before heading out on track
 
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Av8orntn

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Hey Av8, we are a big fan of Hawk pads here. We run DTC 70's up front and DTC 30's out back for strong consistent and stable braking on our in house cars. The DTC 70/30 setup is a great way to go for track use. I recommend the HPS 5.0 for the street, and the DTC's for the track. Changing brakes at the track is pretty minor and lets you do a last minute inspection of the suspension before heading out on track
Thanks for the reply. Just so I am clear. You do recommend putting track pads on front and back and just swap them out for the fun Sunday drives and Hawk is the brand?
 

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Av8orntn

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No pad will do both unless you want to deal with an abusrd about of dust. If you track a lot get separate pads.
There are no issues with swapping back and forth between OEM and track pads or track pads and street pads?
 

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There are no issues with swapping back and forth between OEM and track pads or track pads and street pads?
No none. I swap my pads at home I could swap them at the track but track days start so early I am rarely in the mood to deal with that.
 

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Thanks for the reply. Just so I am clear. You do recommend putting track pads on front and back and just swap them out for the fun Sunday drives and Hawk is the brand?
no problem

I recommend DTC's for the track only, they need to get warmed up for good braking performance, swapping to them for a trackday shouldn't take more than 30 minutes, its really the only way to go for track ready performance

And yes, front and rear. the 70's up front as that is most of your braking, the 30's out back so they don't cause issues with stability and nervousness under braking.


Also, fluid, fluid, fluid

something like motul RBF600 or 660 for fluid, bled before and event(and mid day if you want to be safe)


When swapping the pads, inspect for cracking on the rotors as well, it will happen eventually, its just a part of track use when you start running it hard
 

bellwilliam

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I don't recommend swap pads only (rotor and pads should go together), unless you stay within same family of pads.

Only issue I have with OEM pads is too much initial bite. There is only 1 track (ACS in SOCAL) I can fade the pads, and that's after ~3 laps. It comes back after 1 easy lap.
 

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Av8orntn

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Also, fluid, fluid, fluid

something like motul RBF600 or 660 for fluid, bled before and event(and mid day if you want to be safe)

Fluid would have been my next question. That was the only thing they said to change at the Track Attack I went to.
 
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Av8orntn

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I don't recommend swap pads only (rotor and pads should go together), unless you stay within same family of pads.

Only issue I have with OEM pads is too much initial bite. There is only 1 track (ACS in SOCAL) I can fade the pads, and that's after ~3 laps. It comes back after 1 easy lap.
So, with 2000 miles on my car is it to late to change to a different family of pads?
 

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stock pads are perfectly fine. If you want to spend money, get camber plates for the front..
 

bellwilliam

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So, with 2000 miles on my car is it to late to change to a different family of pads?
with different family of pads. you can clean up your old rotors (removing the transferred layer) with a wire wheel and re-bed them. you can find a few youtube video on it.

or just buy another set of OEM pads...... OEM pads are cheap and decent track pads.

G-Loc R18, DTC70 are all good track pads, but serious limitation for street driving - no bite when cold, really really loud, very abrasive (on rotors) when not up to temp...... if you don't street the car much, then do go with track pads.

one reason you are using up pads fast is ABS kicking in... are your ABS activating when you track ?
 
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Av8orntn

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with different family of pads. you can clean up your old rotors (removing the transferred layer) with a wire wheel and re-bed them. you can find a few youtube video on it.

or just buy another set of OEM pads...... OEM pads are cheap and decent track pads.

G-Loc R18, DTC70 are all good track pads, but serious limitation for street driving - no bite when cold, really really loud, very abrasive (on rotors) when not up to temp...... if you don't street the car much, then do go with track pads.

one reason you are using up pads fast is ABS kicking in... are your ABS activating when you track ?

Only once for the ABS when the track was wet after a brief shower. I've been trying to work the brakes like they said at track attack. Very aggressive and slowly releasing them.
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