HELP: front wheel bearing loose

[spiller]

Car has only done 2500 miles and I noticed a large clunk in the front left whilst turning left on the way home from work today. I got home and jacked up the front of the car...sure enough, there is loads of play in all directions when wiggling the wheel.

I have read about the rear axle nut loosening on these cars. Has anyone experienced this on the front? I'd rather not drive the car until I can at least tighten the nut down, so can anyone advise as to the procedure to do this and a torque spec?

Should it be tightened with the suspension loaded? How do I stop the hub from turning as I tighten?

TIA.

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[Norm Peterson]

If the hub turns while you're torquing the nut down, you've got more (and bigger) problems than just a loose nut and a probably-bad-now bearing.

I don't know the spec, but any amount that takes the play out - if that's possible now - would have to be better than the current situation that you managed to drive home on. But a flat-bed ride back to the dealership for a warranty repair without touching anything is what you should do. Let them diagnose and repair the condition exactly as you found it to be.


Norm

 

[HeelToeHero]

Agree flat bed it to ford. Anything else muddies the facts for your claim and risks it being denied or found as "normal" after you tightened the nut.

 

[Sig556]

If the hub turns while you're torquing the nut down, you've got more (and bigger) problems than just a loose nut and a probably-bad-now bearing.

I don't know the spec, but any amount that takes the play out - if that's possible now - would have to be better than the current situation that you managed to drive home on. But a flat-bed ride back to the dealership for a warranty repair without touching anything is what you should do. Let them diagnose and repair the condition exactly as you found it to be.


Norm

Norm nailed it! Time to call the Dealer and have your car towed into the shop.

 

[Weasel1]

If the hub turns while you're torquing the nut down, you've got more (and bigger) problems than just a loose nut and a probably-bad-now bearing.

I don't know the spec, but any amount that takes the play out - if that's possible now - would have to be better than the current situation that you managed to drive home on. But a flat-bed ride back to the dealership for a warranty repair without touching anything is what you should do. Let them diagnose and repair the condition exactly as you found it to be.


Norm

^^^^^^^^Do this. Great advice. You start fooling with it, and the dealer may refuse to warrantee it.

 

[spiller]

Well, I have already had extended wheel studs fitted so I am half expecting them to find a way to deny it. Thanks for the advice all, I'm first going to ring the shop who fitted the studs to see if they played around with the hub before I call the dealer.

 

[JKL1031]

There is no front axle nut?. It's the 4 hub bolts that may be loose. If not bearings r shot

 

[spiller]

There is no front axle nut?. It's the 4 hub bolts that may be loose. If not bearings r shot

That's what I thought (four bolts). It feels like a loose hub as opposed to the bearing but who knows. I rang two dealerships today and none could get me a loan car. They want me to drive it down to them so I can go for a drive with the tech (this is despite me telling them the hub is loose). They're also questioning why this issue wasn't picked up at the initial inspection after 3,000 kms (it's now done 4,000kms).

I have extended ARP studs fitted, I bet they will pick on that and deny. Not getting a good feeling about this.

 

[JKL1031]

Do you wrench? Its not too hard to get to them. Doubt your bearings r shot. U sure the lugs r tight on both sides? Sounds can be mis guiding side to side.

 

[spiller]

Do you wrench? Its not too hard to get to them. Doubt your bearings r shot. U sure the lugs r tight on both sides? Sounds can be mis guiding side to side.

Yes I do wrench. How can I get access to the hub bolts? If I remove the caliper and rotor, are they accessed from the back of the hub? Any idea on the torque spec? Lug nut torque was the first thing I checked and it was fine. Just to be sure, I also removed the wheel and sure enough, the hub still had play.

 

[IvanCRF]

Yes I do wrench. How can I get access to the hub bolts? If I remove the caliper and rotor, are they accessed from the back of the hub? Any idea on the torque spec? Lug nut torque was the first thing I checked and it was fine. Just to be sure, I also removed the wheel and sure enough, the hub still had play.

Front Wheel Bearing and Wheel Hub

Removal

NOTICE: Suspension fasteners are critical parts that affect the performance of vital components and
systems. Failure of these fasteners may result in major service expense. Use the same or equivalent parts
if replacement is necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Tighten
fasteners as specified.

1. Remove the brake disc.
Refer to: Brake Disc (20603
Front Disc Brake, Removal and Installation).

2. Remove and discard the wheel hub grease cap.

3. Remove and discard the wheel hub nut.

4. Remove the front wheel bearing and wheel hub.



Installation

1. Install the front wheel bearing and wheel hub.

2. Install the new the wheel hub nut.
Torque: 251 lb.ft (340 Nm)

3. Install the new wheel hub grease cap.

4. Install the brake disc.
Refer to: Brake Disc (20603
Front Disc Brake, Removal and Installation).

 

[Cobra Jet]

That's what I thought (four bolts). It feels like a loose hub as opposed to the bearing but who knows. I rang two dealerships today and none could get me a loan car. They want me to drive it down to them so I can go for a drive with the tech (this is despite me telling them the hub is loose). They're also questioning why this issue wasn't picked up at the initial inspection after 3,000 kms (it's now done 4,000kms).

I have extended ARP studs fitted, I bet they will pick on that and deny. Not getting a good feeling about this.

Who installed the ARP studs and where they fitted to the problematic hub? You or a shop?

If it was a shop, then take it back to them with the problem - sounds to me like someone did not properly torque parts after the install of the ARP studs.

Unfortunately, Ford *might* deny the warranty work if ARP studs are on the AFFECTED PART - because they will relate that modification to the failure, since in order to install the studs it required R&R of THE part and any surrounding part(s).

****If the ARP studs are on the rear hubs and the problem is the FRONT hub, then they cannot deny warranty work.

 

[JKL1031]

Front Wheel Bearing and Wheel Hub

Removal

NOTICE: Suspension fasteners are critical parts that affect the performance of vital components and
systems. Failure of these fasteners may result in major service expense. Use the same or equivalent parts
if replacement is necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Tighten
fasteners as specified.

1. Remove the brake disc.
Refer to: Brake Disc (20603
Front Disc Brake, Removal and Installation).

2. Remove and discard the wheel hub grease cap.

3. Remove and discard the wheel hub nut.

4. Remove the front wheel bearing and wheel hub.



Installation

1. Install the front wheel bearing and wheel hub.

2. Install the new the wheel hub nut.
Torque: 251 lb.ft (340 Nm)

3. Install the new wheel hub grease cap.

4. Install the brake disc.
Refer to: Brake Disc (20603
Front Disc Brake, Removal and Installation).

 

[JKL1031]

Who installed the ARP studs and where they fitted to the problematic hub? You or a shop?

If it was a shop, then take it back to them with the problem - sounds to me like someone did not properly torque parts after the install of the ARP studs.

Unfortunately, Ford *might* deny the warranty work if ARP studs are on the AFFECTED PART - because they will relate that modification to the failure, since in order to install the studs it required R&R of THE part and any surrounding part(s).

****If the ARP studs are on the rear hubs and the problem is the FRONT hub, then they cannot deny warranty work.

I agree. Also wouldn't go back to them.

 

[spiller]

Update: I went to dealer this morning. The hub nut on the front was loose, bearing and spindle were all fine. Of course, they denied the warranty claim so I had to pay for the labour. $100 for their time, so not too bad. But, I did find their reasoning for denial interesting. 1) they commented on the studs. 2) they stated that because I had lowered suspension, the warranty would be denied. Changes to camber affecting loads on the hub etc etc.

I think I've decided today that my car won't be going back to a ford dealer ever again. Suspension issues don't worry me since I've upgrade most of it, but if I were to have a major driveline issue, I would be concerned about them covering it. Before today, I was of the belief that ford has to prove that a mod caused the failure to deny warranty, but it's obvious that a car with any upgrades gets an automatic black mark.

Front Wheel Bearing and Wheel Hub

Removal

NOTICE: Suspension fasteners are critical parts that affect the performance of vital components and
systems. Failure of these fasteners may result in major service expense. Use the same or equivalent parts
if replacement is necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Tighten
fasteners as specified.

1. Remove the brake disc.
Refer to: Brake Disc (20603
Front Disc Brake, Removal and Installation).

2. Remove and discard the wheel hub grease cap.

3. Remove and discard the wheel hub nut.

4. Remove the front wheel bearing and wheel hub.



Installation

1. Install the front wheel bearing and wheel hub.

2. Install the new the wheel hub nut.
Torque: 251 lb.ft (340 Nm)

3. Install the new wheel hub grease cap.

4. Install the brake disc.
Refer to: Brake Disc (20603
Front Disc Brake, Removal and Installation).

Brilliant, thanks for that!

Who installed the ARP studs and where they fitted to the problematic hub? You or a shop?

If it was a shop, then take it back to them with the problem - sounds to me like someone did not properly torque parts after the install of the ARP studs.

Unfortunately, Ford *might* deny the warranty work if ARP studs are on the AFFECTED PART - because they will relate that modification to the failure, since in order to install the studs it required R&R of THE part and any surrounding part(s).

****If the ARP studs are on the rear hubs and the problem is the FRONT hub, then they cannot deny warranty work.

The shop installed the studs. I have ARP studs front and rear - it was the front that was faulty. They are a VERY experienced race shop and I rang them first to check if they removed the hub in order to fit and their answer was no. They removed the rear hubs (not the issue) but were able to install the fronts with the hub on the car.

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