I NEED BRAKES ALREADY

[CSL]

Raybestos ST43. They are a great track pad that last forever. Rotor wear is reasonable and they have great street manners. They bite when cold and have pretty minimal squeal with light application on the street. Very tolerable. I have used these for years on my GT500 with great results. It is also the pad we use for endurance racing. I just put a set on the fronts and have been driving them a bit on the street. Their first track day is coming in early May. I got these pads from Porterfield.

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[xXANCHORMONXx]

How long will the DSUNO run. I also dont see a DS1.11 Front pad on the site? id rather go through pads then rotors.

Quite some time.

I noticed 1.35mm of wear after 4 20 minute sessions.


I would call and ask, they may not have it listed yet.


Rotors for this car are cheapppppppp

 

[Muligan]

As for the "cracking," it may just be "crazing" - watch it and check for feel with your finger nail. Crazing is normal on brake rotors that have seen the heat of track use, even those without de-gas holes or slots. But, if they start to open up, you'll want to make sure you get new rotors on ASAP.

As for pad wear, like others mentioned, it's just a cost of doing business if you're going to track your car. Two full days on the track is asking quite a bit from a set of brand new pads on a car that is 4000 lbs with fuel and a driver. There are other track pads out there that may last a little longer, but you will likely give up a little cold stopping power on the street as those pads will require some heat in order to work properly.

Best of luck on your search for the right ones for your driving style.

 

[Stuntman]

I'm guessing DS2500 or DS1.11 is the answer? Do you know if the DS1.11 is streetable? Decent cold bite and/or quick to warm up for normal braking? Which lasts longer technically? THANK YOU for this link.

DS2500s are pretty much identical to the OEM HP1000 pads.

Just use OEM pads. 2.5 days is the price you pay for a heavy car that doesn't fade on track, doesn't squeal, has good cold bite and is good for the street. More aggressive pads won't necessarily make the car brake any better and may or may not last longer on track with possibly better or worse rotor life.

 

[gt350recon]

DS2500s are pretty much identical to the OEM HP1000 pads.

Just use OEM pads. 2.5 days is the price you pay for a heavy car that doesn't fade on track, doesn't squeal, has good cold bite and is good for the street. More aggressive pads won't necessarily make the car brake any better and may or may not last longer on track with possibly better or worse rotor life.

Thanks for everyone's input. I agree OEM isn't bad at all for the abuse I put them through. I'd just like to see if there is one pad out there that lasts longer and has similar friendly drivability from cold to hot sessions. The new question now though is- are the Ferodo pads or the other pads mentioned easier on rotors? This is aimed at the brake abusers. I have real cracks forming from the drilled holes, not crazing... yet. Also, are these drilled rotors necessary? Is there documentation that states why Ford used these? From my previous experiences, I'd rather have non-drilled rotors to reduce the chances of cracks early on but this beast of a car is completely different than anything I've owned before.

Also, where are you getting the cheap rotors?

 

[firestarter2]

Silly question do we need to remove the calipers to change pads or do they pop out the back? I see some people get the studs.

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

Thanks for everyone's input. I agree OEM isn't bad at all for the abuse I put them through. I'd just like to see if there is one pad out there that lasts longer and has similar friendly drivability from cold to hot sessions. The new question now though is- are the Ferodo pads or the other pads mentioned easier on rotors? This is aimed at the brake abusers. I have real cracks forming from the drilled holes, not crazing... yet. Also, are these drilled rotors necessary? Is there documentation that states why Ford used these? From my previous experiences, I'd rather have non-drilled rotors to reduce the chances of cracks early on but this beast of a car is completely different than anything I've owned before.

Also, where are you getting the cheap rotors?

Until you try the Ferodo you won't understand what you are missing from oem.

The oem pads are quieter because they are a softer pad and will more than likely do little harm to the discs. Since this is the case you need more pedal pressure to get them to work since their Mu is lower than a DSUNO.

I wish Ford did slotted as well. The only reason to go drilled these days is to save weight.

 

[xXANCHORMONXx]

Silly question do we need to remove the calipers to change pads or do they pop out the back? I see some people get the studs.

Rears pop out

Fronts must have the caliper removed hence the studs

 

[Mustang1260]

I have real cracks forming from the drilled holes, not crazing... yet. Also, are these drilled rotors necessary?

Drilled rotors started in the 1960's in dragsters. The idea was to reduce weight anywhere possible and dragsters only need to stop once per race and the chute does most of the work.

How did they end up on street cars-- simple. Johnny Poser. they look cool. they look racy. the VAST majority (95%++) of cars that come from the factory with drilled rotors (mainly Corvettes; i've owned both vettes and stangs for years so this is not a corvette bash) have them for 'racy' looks as that is what the owners want.

Carroll Shelby very famously quoted: guys do not want a race car for the street, they want a street car that looks like a race car (and thus the huge changes between the 1965 and 1966 GT350...)

Go look at a REAL road course race car (sorry the GT350 ain't a race car-it is a street car) and look at the brakes--are you gonna see drilled rotors--NEVER.

Now-- saying this with all respect...how experienced are you on a road course? While race rotors do not need to be drilled (and shouldn't) Ford didn't just slap these on...they were tested and got past their durability tests.
You may want to check in with a very good instructor as to your line and braking technique--you may be over braking. Just an idea not intending to insult.

 

[car crazy]

Frankly, it is not going to matter what brake pads you use. You are going to go through a set of pads each track weekend if you push the car (2.5 days). This car is fast and will eat pads for lunch around the track. You really should bleed out some brake fluid after each track weekend too.

Rotors are a different story. They will crack from the heat - this is normal. You want to check the thickness to make sure it is above the minimum specification. Just make sure cracks from the holes do not extend all the way out to the end of the rotors. I'm guessing you will go through about 5 to 6 sets of pads on the track for each set of rotors. If you are going to do a lot of track days, consider going with a slotted rotor as opposed to a drilled rotor.

 

[CSL]

The OEM rotors work well for the cost. I've never used drilled rotors prior to this car for all the reasons mentioned, but these are holding up pretty well. I've gone through two sets of stock pads and have not yet developed any notable cracking.

As far as OEM pads go, these are the best OEM pads I have experienced. But they're not a track pad. They lack initial bite and lose bite when they get hot. They also don't last. You will certainly get better life out of certain compounds. The ST43s last much longer than any other pad I've used. I guarantee I will not go through a set of these in a weekend.

 

[honeybadger]

The OEM rotors work well for the cost. I've never used drilled rotors prior to this car for all the reasons mentioned, but these are holding up pretty well. I've gone through two sets of stock pads and have not yet developed any notable cracking.

As far as OEM pads go, these are the best OEM pads I have experienced. But they're not a track pad. They lack initial bite and lose bite when they get hot. They also don't last. You will certainly get better life out of certain compounds. The ST43s last much longer than any other pad I've used. I guarantee I will not go through a set of these in a weekend.

[MENTION=19800]CSL[/MENTION] - Have you run Oregon Raceway Park in your 350? I definitely lost the bite after the brakes got hot. From all the reviews, I was surprised to experience brake fade.

 

[gt350recon]

Drilled rotors started in the 1960's in dragsters. The idea was to reduce weight anywhere possible and dragsters only need to stop once per race and the chute does most of the work.

How did they end up on street cars-- simple. Johnny Poser. they look cool. they look racy. the VAST majority (95%++) of cars that come from the factory with drilled rotors (mainly Corvettes; i've owned both vettes and stangs for years so this is not a corvette bash) have them for 'racy' looks as that is what the owners want.

Carroll Shelby very famously quoted: guys do not want a race car for the street, they want a street car that looks like a race car (and thus the huge changes between the 1965 and 1966 GT350...)

Go look at a REAL road course race car (sorry the GT350 ain't a race car-it is a street car) and look at the brakes--are you gonna see drilled rotors--NEVER.

Now-- saying this with all respect...how experienced are you on a road course? While race rotors do not need to be drilled (and shouldn't) Ford didn't just slap these on...they were tested and got past their durability tests.
You may want to check in with a very good instructor as to your line and braking technique--you may be over braking. Just an idea not intending to insult.

No offense taken. I was a licensed racing driver in the UK for three years. I was able to get more than 2.5 race weekends out of non-drilled rotors albeit on a MUCH lighter car. That being said, this car is an entirely different beast. It has a lot of power, top end speed, and weight. I MAY be braking too much but according to other members here they are experiencing similar results with pads but I seem to be the only with early drilled-hole cracks forming.

[ame]

The OEM rotors work well for the cost. I've never used drilled rotors prior to this car for all the reasons mentioned, but these are holding up pretty well. I've gone through two sets of stock pads and have not yet developed any notable cracking.

As far as OEM pads go, these are the best OEM pads I have experienced. But they're not a track pad. They lack initial bite and lose bite when they get hot. They also don't last. You will certainly get better life out of certain compounds. The ST43s last much longer than any other pad I've used. I guarantee I will not go through a set of these in a weekend.

Thanks for the tip on the ST43s. I'll check them out too.

-Matt

 

[CSL]

^^I have seen others starting to form cracks from the holes with a half dozen or less days on them. Seems pretty normal. The cracks I've seen stay pretty contained and don't seem prone to run. I'm estimating getting two seasons on front rotors.

 

[gt350recon]

^^I have seen others starting to form cracks from the holes with a half dozen or less days on them. Seems pretty normal. The cracks I've seen stay pretty contained and don't seem prone to run. I'm estimating getting two seasons on front rotors.

Ok. Good to know then.

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