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Opg install, Whats all required?

jabrax

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3 Jaw Puller - FSM says to use the Crank pulley bolt that that was removed to use with the puller.

Do you just hand screw the bolt back in and set the puller against it?
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Crackerjack17

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3 Jaw Puller - FSM says to use the Crank pulley bolt that that was removed to use with the puller.

Do you just hand screw the bolt back in and set the puller against it?
Huh? It's a long bolt that would make it difficult. I mean I guess you could leave it in place and pull against it if you back it out enough for the damper to slide off. I put a socket on the end of my jaw puller and lubed it up so that It would spin against the end of the crank.
 

MK5

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Sorry if I'm missing something here...hoping someone can shed some light on this...do you need to remove the whole oil pan to do the OPG? The service manual pages that were posted indicated this. For some reason I can't visualize where the OPG are located and how you actually change them once you get there??

Ah...pulled the trigger too quick...I see now on the svtpersformance pics what's going on. :)
 
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Bartly

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3 Jaw Puller - FSM says to use the Crank pulley bolt that that was removed to use with the puller.

Do you just hand screw the bolt back in and set the puller against it?
I put it the put the factory bolt back in, can't recall if it was all that the way or not, but betting it was so that I had maximum threads engaged. Put the pulled up against it, and went to town. The puller put a nice mark in the head and pulled the pulley right off. The bolt head just fits inside the opening of the pulley to allow it to slide over it.
 

Crackerjack17

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I put it the put the factory bolt back in, can't recall if it was all that the way or not, but betting it was so that I had maximum threads engaged. Put the pulled up against it, and went to town. The puller put a nice mark in the head and pulled the pulley right off. The bolt head just fits inside the opening of the pulley to allow it to slide over it.
Yeah, that makes sense. I forgot about taking the washer off and just putting the bolt back in. Didn't think about that. Good idea.
 

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tsloms

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I tried to use my existing bolt without the washer to pull on my ATI balancer but the bolt pulled through the inside of the balancer and wouldn't work. I'd recommend to get a longer bolt to pull it on. I ended up welding together a bolt to pull it on as it's a 12mm fine thread.
 

Crackerjack17

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I tried to use my existing bolt without the washer to pull on my ATI balancer but the bolt pulled through the inside of the balancer and wouldn't work. I'd recommend to get a longer bolt to pull it on. I ended up welding together a bolt to pull it on as it's a 12mm fine thread.
He's trying to get the damper off. But, yeah you need a longer bolt if you want to "pull" the damper back on. The best way to do it though is to get a threaded rod and thread it into the crank and then use a nut and washer to pull damper back on. That way you don't put stress on the threads.
 

Bartly

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I ended up buying a M12 x 1.5m x 150mm long new bolt from fastenal, had to order it, showed up in 2 days. It might have been a little long, I used stacks of washers, adding them as I went, it was over an inch of them if I recall, so maybe a 140mm long one would have been better, but longer will always work as long as you have washers.
 

jabrax

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I ended up buying a M12 x 1.5m x 150mm long new bolt from fastenal, had to order it, showed up in 2 days. It might have been a little long, I used stacks of washers, adding them as I went, it was over an inch of them if I recall, so maybe a 140mm long one would have been better, but longer will always work as long as you have washers.
The PC bolt wasn't long enough?
 

dsp4848

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3 Jaw Puller - FSM says to use the Crank pulley bolt that that was removed to use with the puller.

Do you just hand screw the bolt back in and set the puller against it?
Just did this this weekend and that's exactly what I did. Used the stock bolt as a means of turning the crank and removing the balancer.

By the way, for anyone about to do this and renting a tool from AutoZone, rent the 2-3 ton puller, the 5 ton is too big.

Sorry if I'm missing something here...hoping someone can shed some light on this...do you need to remove the whole oil pan to do the OPG? The service manual pages that were posted indicated this. For some reason I can't visualize where the OPG are located and how you actually change them once you get there??

Ah...pulled the trigger too quick...I see now on the svtpersformance pics what's going on. :)
The SVT Performance thread with all the pictures is very helpful. It is for a '13-14 Mustang, but most everything is very similar, if not the same. I think the Ford service manual tells you to remove the pan to get to the pickup tube bolts, but it isn't necessary.
 
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Bartly

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The PC bolt wasn't long enough?
You know, I hate to say, but I didn't even try it. Just read on here that someone suggested ordering the longer bolt. Can't recall if the PC bolt would have been long enough.
 

15dib

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The wife just got me an early xmas present. I'll be installing these over the holiday weekend and not feel too worried when I beat on my car now.
 

PC 2015

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The wife just got me an early xmas present. I'll be installing these over the holiday weekend and not feel too worried when I beat on my car now.
Nice you picked a good one :headbang::headbang:
 

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Can anyone tell me how to remove the ac belt? I'm doing opg now and can't seem to find any info on that.
 

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Some have literally pulled on the belt and manually turned the engine while doing so to get it to 'derail' and just keep working for it. I cut mine and bought and bought a new one.
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