Warranty Engine Replacement - No Oil Pressure

[kairojya]

I got mine back SATURDAY!!!!

Nice! I'll check your thread for an update

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[Agent_S550]

Gotta say Kyle, I love the color combo on that car. It'd be hard to give it up, even after everything you've been thru. Glad it's working out and the cars moving now.

 

[Zitrosounds]

Car looks great and I'm glad to see you enjoying it again. Sounds like you're breaking in that engine real nice. Most who have not babied it seem to be doing well.

Most is correct! I did not baby mine and even tracked her and engine failed regardless.

 

[Minn19]

Most is correct! I did not baby mine and even tracked her and engine failed regardless.

^Same here, I probably didn't go as hard as you, but I definitely didn't baby it. I did autox it once with a high speed runway run after the lap.

 

[kairojya]

Gotta say Kyle, I love the color combo on that car. It'd be hard to give it up, even after everything you've been thru. Glad it's working out and the cars moving now.

Thanks! I'm having a hard time convincing myself to trade/sell it now. We'll see...

 

[kairojya]

Update

The dealership that replaced my engine fixed 4 pieces of my stripes on my hood (lower) and front bumper (upper) this past Friday. They outsourced to a local sticker/pinstripe company who came to the dealer and did the work. The stripes look good and they are lined up correctly, however the installed didn't seat the stickers that good on the underside of my hood (where it wraps around the leading edge) or underneath the upper section of my front bumper. There's some creases at the edge, but it's not noticeable unless you're looking for it.

I've put 600~ miles on the new engine so far and have been running it in hard (once up to temp of course). I have noticed the oil level slowly falling on the dipstick, maybe 4mm~ from my baseline check right when I received the car after the engine replacement. I'll be watching this closely, especially after my first oil change (on this engine) upcoming this or next weekend. I'm planning on running the OE Motorcraft oil at least for this first change. Performance wise the car feels great. I have noticed one clank noise while coming to a stop at slow speed that seemed to come from the front end. I'm keeping an eye/ear out for that kind of stuff.

Today I did notice some play in my steering wheel and started a thread about it. Perhaps it has something to do with the engine replacement, perhaps it's normal. We'll see.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1590262

 

[kairojya]

Update

Today I had the car up on jack stands to look around underneath and do my first oil change for the replacement engine (just over 800 miles use so far). It seems over the first 800 miles it burned enough oil to go from the full mark to about half way to the low mark on the dipstick. I will be watching the oil level closely after this first change.

My factory installed (allegedly) oil filter was torqued to at least 24 Nm, and I found that there was a green pen/paint mark that I guess the factory makes from the oil filter housing over the filter (around 10 o'clock looking at the filter towards the torque sticker). The filter was still lined up with the mark on the housing.

Key Findings

• Several missing fasteners from belly pan and splitter
• Oil/grime in belly pan around oil filter
• Oil/grime around oil pan surrounding engine oil drain plug

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First, I'm not really understanding this so maybe some of you can figure it out, but why did I find the "factory installed" oil filter oily/dirty (sorry no pic, but it didn't appear to be leaking) and the belly pan had a decent amount of oil, enough to soak a few shop towels in. To be clear, this mess was there BEFORE I did the oil change. I did one oil change on my original engine and did not make this mess, the belly pan was clean as new before my engine swap. To give you an idea of the extent of the mess I found, here's the upper side of the oil filter access door:



And here's how my oil pan looked, again before I did the first oil change:



My best guess is that the dealer drained my original engine's oil and removed my original filter before pulling the engine, and they did it the way you'd expect a dealership to: quick and dirty. However, this does not explain why my new engine's oil pan is dirty. I was told the engine was shipped from the factory full of oil and with a factory installed oil filter.

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On both driver and passenger side, the 2 fasteners connecting the belly pan to the fender liner are missing (4 total fasteners):





Several fasteners missing from the belly pan:









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I checked around the transmission and it seems like these harness clips aren't right. What do you think? Passenger side:



Driver side:



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Bonus pictures

Here an idea of the metal in the oil on first change. This is from oil that drained out of a hole I punched in the filter before removing it. It looks about the same as from my original engine



Here's (another) pic of my sad, lonely, empty VIN plate on my replacement engine block:

 

[KiLLeR2001]

First, I'm not really understanding this so maybe some of you can figure it out, but why did I find the "factory installed" oil filter oily/dirty (sorry no pic, but it didn't appear to be leaking) and the belly pan had a decent amount of oil, enough to soak a few shop towels in. To be clear, this mess was there BEFORE I did the oil change. I did one oil change on my original engine and did not make this mess, the belly pan was clean as new before my engine swap. To give you an idea of the extent of the mess I found, here's the upper side of the oil filter access door:

Because when you do an oil change, if you don't religiously try to avoid oil from spewing out from the oil filter, it will collect all into the belly pan and run down and continue to drip oil long after you've done your oil change if you don't clean it up. Best bet when doing the change is to get some junk rags and lace the entire surrounding area with them so oil hits the rags and not collect in the belly pan making you think you might have a leak... lol.

 

[Voodooo]

As a mechanic myself this kind of shit pisses me off big time. I swear nobody takes pride in their work anymore. This is uncalled for.

 

[kairojya]

Because when you do an oil change, if you don't religiously try to avoid oil from spewing out from the oil filter, it will collect all into the belly pan and run down and continue to drip oil long after you've done your oil change if you don't clean it up. Best bet when doing the change is to get some junk rags and lace the entire surrounding area with them so oil hits the rags and not collect in the belly pan making you think you might have a leak... lol.

Yea, I've heard that and learned on here about punching a hole in the filter before removing it. What I've done on both oil changes (one each for the 2 engines I've had so far) is I break the oil filter loose, but not to where any oil drains. Then I punch a hole in the bottom of the filter and let most of the oil drain. Then I start loosening the filter until oil starts draining from the top (where it mates to the housing). I wait for that to finish, then carefully remove the filter. I don't think I'm getting any oil in the pan as far as I can tell. I'll check next time and see, that'll tell me if it was really my own doing.

Here's a pic from the first change I did with my original engine:

From my oil change DIY thread: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58639

 

[Voodooo]

You guys need a form a funnel. I use them almost daily at work. Or use aluminum foil. I always break the filter lose then stab a hole in it. Then allow it to drain until it stops then remove it. It's mess-less

 

[kairojya]

You guys need a form a funnel. I use them almost daily at work. Or use aluminum foil. I always break the filter lose then stab a hole in it. Then allow it to drain until it stops then remove it. It's mess-less

I haven't used/made a funnel yet, but I've done the rest of what you mentioned. I assumed it was mess less, maybe I'm missing some of the oil draining idk.

I do have to clean up some on the harness going to what I assume is the EPAS controller ... why someone thought it was a great idea to mount that computer/controller and run the harness there, I have no idea. :frusty:

 

[Voodooo]

I haven't used/made a funnel yet, but I've done the rest of what you mentioned. I assumed it was mess less, maybe I'm missing some of the oil draining idk.

I do have to clean up some on the harness going to what I assume is the EPAS controller ... why someone thought it was a great idea to mount that computer/controller and run the harness there, I have no idea. :frusty:

Aluminum foil works great.

 

[kairojya]

I was back under the car today checking for the source of my steering wheel play. I solved the problem, found a loose fastener, detailed here: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1598665&postcount=18

I also found the following scratches. I remember saying earlier in this thread that I assumed this would happen when my engine was being replaced.






Most of the tool marks / scratches I found seem to be on the driver's side, on the frame rail in the engine bay or on areas of the transmission tunnel that aren't covered in heat shielding.

 

[Roh92cp]

I'll I can say is Ford sucks ass, can trust anyone to care for your car. I put my motor in with 0 scratches to the frame or tunnel area. So frustrating to see careless work like this.

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