PP Replacement Rotors - Aluminum Hats

[Lost Cosmonaut]

Yes, I know all about drilled rotors.

And in response to your comment, I am aware of their reputation. But, as a consumer, I need to be informed on more than "we are good" to spend that much more on a simple brake rotor.

When people talk about how much better a company is, hence their price being more, I actually wonder - why is it more then? If a company is better, it will typically allow them to be at the same price or less for most products they offer.

But again, maybe it is the material cost - from using different manufacturing methods, or materials, or both + more.

A quick example.

Our rear control arm bearing kit is substantially more than our competitors. Similar to this situation. But, the reason is because it is much different. It cost much more to make, and features parts and materials that are different.

Yeah, I get it, and I can't give you a quantifiable reason why AP Racing is so much better than another brand. As I said, it's probably largely the name and reputation. Brembo is no better than another aftermarket brand either, but their systems and parts (for aftermarket) typically cost far more than other brands, because when people think Big Brakes, they think Brembo.

I would look at Rotora, they do use 7075-T6 for their rotor hats and their prices are usually pretty competitive with the other aftermarket brands.

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[DivineStrike]

Good info Divine.

I looked at those - but I just don't see what the difference in price can possibly be.

Unless the rotor is made of unobtanium. Would love to know what you get additional for the cost, compared to Baer, Wilwood, Girdodisc etc.

I could see if the center hats were made from a stronger alloy, like 7075 instead of 6061.

Maybe someone will chime in that knows more. Or I may call them and just ask why they are $500 more for two rotors.

AP Racing is like the end-all be-all of brakes, hence the price. They make some of the best braking systems in the world, the unobtanium here being their reputation.

Rotora is who I usually go with, I don't know if they make stock replacement disks for the Mustang but they probably do since they do for other cars. They've never done me wrong and I've been using them for 15 years now.

Don't get any drilled rotors, they are prone to cracking unless you strictly follow a strict break-in routine (which you should do with any new brakes anyway), you'll notice that most everyone has been moving away from drilled in the past few years anyway.

Using google, i found some other cars that have used girodisc. Looks like most people like them. I've seen comments on them wearing fast. Aside from that, it seems they've improved their design in the last couple years. Doesn't look like they are quite in the same league as AP.

AP has a racing history and you can easily find that with some googling. To me, that kind of reputation is easily worth the extra $500 over girodisc. through my quick googling, the only other disc really compared to them are authentic Brembo discs. Some think brembo are better.

Once I decide to upgrade my brakes, i will get the AP. The discs are already expensive, might as well go for the best and be one and done. instead of buying one set and not being completely satisfied and upgrading later.

I don't know anything about Rotora. I suppose I could google them. I agree with the cross-drilled comment for sure. I'm certainly no expert, any info I relay on this forum is stuff i've researched online. My pockets aren't deep enough to learn through experience lol. I haven't seen Baer even mentioned in the same sentence as either Giro or AP.

 

[BMR Tech]

Good stuff guys, I genuinely appreciate the comments.

To clarify here, I ALWAYS research and end up using what I feel is the best based on my research and/or past experience.

I like the mention of the 7075 hats above. Now that is something that I consider myself springing extra for, simply because I know what is involved when making a part form 7075 vs 6061 - and the strength of the 7075 being much greater.

 

[DivineStrike]

The two biggest things AP seems to like to promote about their discs are how many vanes they have and the J-Hooks. aside from their racing heritage and durability.

 

[DivineStrike]

Went to fultiltboogie's site. Looks like girodisc spare rotors are about the same price as replacement AP rotors. 400 a piece for AP without hardware, 800 for the girodisc set with hardware. Just more info to consider.

 

[Lost Cosmonaut]

Went to fultiltboogie's site. Looks like girodisc spare rotors are about the same price as replacement AP rotors. 400 a piece for AP without hardware, 800 for the girodisc set with hardware. Just more info to consider.

FWIW, you should replace the hardware with the rotor, just a good idea when the time comes. Those little bolts and bushings get a lot of work.

 

[SteveW]

Kelly,

I have a couple event weekends of autocross and one track day on my Stoptech front, Baer Eradispeed+ rear lightweight rotor setup. I'm happy.

Zero fade on the track and I was driving very hard. I didn't make a full days worth of runs though. OEM pads and Stoptech 600 fluid.

 

[BMR Tech]

Kelly,

I have a couple event weekends of autocross and one track day on my Stoptech front, Baer Eradispeed+ rear lightweight rotor setup. I'm happy.

Zero fade on the track and I was driving very hard. I didn't make a full days worth of runs though. OEM pads and Stoptech 600 fluid.

Awesome! Thanks!

 

[Performance nut]

Messaged Rotora... they just offer kits, for some reason they won't sell me just rotors. :(

 

[db252]

I to have the Baer Eradispeed rotors front and back slotted only. The fronts are 10 lbs lighter each and the rears are 6 lbs lighter each over stock. My pads for track are G-loc R12's for the front with the R8's in the back. Daily is R8 all corners and brake fluid is Castro srf. I have no complaints and they do very well at slowing my Whipple'd ride on track days.

 

[c_reber]

I to have the Baer Eradispeed rotors front and back slotted only. The fronts are 10 lbs lighter each and the rears are 6 lbs lighter each over stock. My pads for track are G-loc R12's for the front with the R8's in the back. Daily is R8 all corners and brake fluid is Castro srf. I have no complaints and they do very well at slowing my Whipple'd ride on track days.

That's a really nice set up for the track. Wish I wanted to spend that kind of money on brakes.

 

[db252]

That's a really nice set up for the track. Wish I wanted to spend that kind of money on brakes.

I wish I 'wanted' to spend that kind of money as well.

 

[Performance nut]

Rotora specs:
Front 6-piston (RF603 type) forged caliper=8.05lbs. each
Rear 4-piston (RF401 type) forged caliper=7.3lbs. each

**all rotora calipers are forged with 6066 T-6 aluminum

Front 355x35mm disc=18 lbs.
Front 380x35mm disc=19.5 lbs.
Rear 380x29mm disc=14.5 lbs.
**all rotora discs are high-carbon & heat-treated

 

[Gatorac]

[MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION], Coleman Racing in Menominee MI. ;)

 

[Gibbo205]

I to have the Baer Eradispeed rotors front and back slotted only. The fronts are 10 lbs lighter each and the rears are 6 lbs lighter each over stock. My pads for track are G-loc R12's for the front with the R8's in the back. Daily is R8 all corners and brake fluid is Castro srf. I have no complaints and they do very well at slowing my Whipple'd ride on track days.

They do look good!

When you fitted these could you notice any improvement in the car acceleration or ride quality wise from the big reduction they gave in unsprung mass?

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