What are your track/AutoX alignment settings?

[Brent Dalton]

My tire outer diameter isn't that different than stock(27.7 stock vs 27.2 now) so the difference is negligible. If I went to a standard 18/30 profile at 25.5 in, it would be more significant. You could always raise your rev limiter though.

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[thevillageidiot]

my worry is what tune I'm going to run for NASA stuff. being in iowa I'm stuck with 91 or e85. my goal is run one lap in 2018

 

[Brent Dalton]

I'm working on running a flex fuel tune since 91 is mostly what is around as well. The walmart down the street has 93 though and is what I normally put in.

I'm hoping to run OLOA in the next few years if I can ever work it into my schedule.

 

[apex15stangPP]

I thought about E85 but there seems to be none around my area. So 91 and 50% 110 mix is what I've been running

 

[BTM]

sub'd

 

[Plimmer]

Toe equipment advice

Looking for some equipment suggestions, cuz I'm tired of dropping off my car at the alignment shop for an $80 alignment tune up.

Basically looking to buy something I can use to reliably check toe without to much hassle. Here are the candidates:

Toe plates:
http://www.longacreracing.com/produ...prodid=7216&pagetitle=Deluxe+Toe+Plates+(pair)

Toe bar (looks like a 2 person job for accurate measurement)
http://www.longacreracing.com/instructions.aspx?item=8128&article=Toe-In Bar - 79622

All in one toe plate:
http://www.tenhulzenautomotive.com/store/p4/Two-Wheel_Alignment_Package .html
or
http://www.tenhulzenautomotive.com/store/p5/Toe_Plates.html

Hoping you guys might have some advice on this.:cheers:

 

[Brent Dalton]

Toe pates with tape measurers are the cheapest and easiest way to measure. Any of them are fine. Within the last year, I picked up a toe bar as I like doing alignment stuff as a hobby.. It's nice and is easily done with one person, but I wouldn't recommend one over the toe plates for several reasons, the biggest one being it's not easy to travel with.

I use a longacre camber caster digital gauge with the adapter for everything else. String when I'm starting fresh for the first one.

 

[steveespo]

I thought about E85 but there seems to be none around my area. So 91 and 50% 110 mix is what I've been running

What 110 octane fuel are you running? Out east the only 110 we have is leaded which will kill the cats if you still have them and foul the O2 sensors. Neither is a good or safe thing for the engine. If you have 110 unleaded the disregard my post.
Steve

 

[Spartan_Stang]

Been trying to research as much as I can before taking the car up for an alignment. From what I have seen it looks like this will be a good starting point for a DD/AutoX car:

Front: -2.0 to -2.5 Camber, ~.20 Toe Out (if any) Total
Rear: -1.5 to -2.0 Camber, ~.30 Toe In Total

My main questions are:
- How will this be on a DD that is driven ~80 miles round trip with ~60 of those miles being on the highway?

NOTE: When I took the OEM P-Zeros off the car they were unevenly worn on the rears (I tend to drive aggressively when I get the chance), so the camber out back will hopefully solve that issue. I just don't want the fronts to give me an issue because most of my driving is DD.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Toe out may make the car darty on the highway, 0 toe is probably fine for autox. Camber seems fine, but I'd try to be on the upper end of your range. How are you planning on getting the front camber, slots or plates?

 

[Norm Peterson]

Why not consider developing two sets of front settings? With camber plates, it's pretty easy to swap between street and track/autocross settings once you've established where they are.

On most cars, going from a milder street camber to a more negative track/autocross camber also drags the toe slightly outward.


Norm

 

[BTM]

Went in for alignment after last round of mods (relevant to alignment are BMR Handling springs & sways in middle position, Koni struts/shocks, Steeda Camber Plates & clearanced strut towers to allow max camber, BMR cradle lockout, Steeda diff bushing - black polyurethane).

After reading through this thread, I decided on a starting point of;

Front
Camber: -3 degrees
Caster: max and even desired - but my setup is non-adjustable currently...
Toe Out: 1/16th

Rear
Camber: -2 degrees
Toe In: 1/8th

Here's how the alignment ended up. Very happy with my camber and toe at both ends, and caster ended up being 0.75 deg different L/R.

The tech was pretty knowledgeable about track setups, and said that this could be due to my local track being 75-80% left hand turns when run CCW, which it almost always is. More g-loading on that side can make all the tolerances in the front end components creep to one extreme.

 

[Brent Dalton]

I like it!

 

[mnmike59]

I changed my camber to -3
After using a probe to test inner, outer and center tire temps, it showed -3 was too much. (inner tire temp too high) I've changed it to -2.5 I haven't been to the track since that change, but I have to believe testing the the three points of your tires is the most accurate way to know if the camber is spot on. The Toe in can affect that as well, but I have no idea how to really know about that?
I'm a noob as far as race car setups. This is something I picked up at the track from a guy with MANY SCCA championships.
Any thoughts?

 

[Brent Dalton]

What tires are you running? A street tire will need less camber than a r compound.

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