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Knocking Noise - Video included

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daniel_94kg

daniel_94kg

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Its absolutely the oil. On boosted applications you shouldve been running at least 5w30. And my personal opinion, M1 isnt my go to. I use non API oils like RP HPS for the higher concentration of additives. My experience with M1 was that it would thin out and break down to the point of almost no recovery waaayyy before it was supposed to. HPS doesnt go through that, even the 5w20 remains constant after a prolonged period of sustained high rpms.

Its a really tough break and an eye opening reality that could happen to any of us. Thank you for sharing and hope to see your car running soon!!!
I'm skeptical. I'm sure I'm not the only guy who has run or is running Mobil 1 5w20 on a boosted coyote. A friend of mine has a procharged 2013 and has run mobil 1 5w20 for thousands more miles than I put on my car with boost. I get it, not the same car, but I'm just saying, they're similar, it's still a coyote 5.0

I was hardly ever under WOT on the road and had only made a couple passes(5-6 total) before boost, 2 passes after boost. Something happed on that pull onto the highway that the motor didn't like. I don't think it was oil. Engine was warm, CHT were up in the 196-199 range, I wont ever go WOT if the car wasn't warm.

You could very well be right, but until I get the results from the tear down, I'm going to just accept that when my motor came off the assembly line, it was doomed for failure.

Either way, I appreciate all of the responses and support the thread has gotten so quickly, and this B will be back on the road hopefully sooner rather than later.:cheers:
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PowerAdderGT

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I too am very skeptical of the oil weight being an issue, I personally ran Moble 1 5-20 for years in a Procharged 2V without issue.

You can ask 10 experts on oil and get 10 different recommendations . Most that I have seen say cold start is where the most wear occurs.
 

sigintel

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10W30 experiences

I agree with this. M1 doesn't have good shearing characteristics especially for a boosted car. I run 10W30 Ultra Platinum because it shows great shearing characteristics to maintain the viscosity.
You wait till full running temps before WOT?
What tstat ?
What CHTs you like to see before WOT?
Wish we had better stock oil pressure sensors and stock pressure logging.
 

olaosunt

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Just to add to this thread.

My on3 car was making similar noises after oil pressure light came on(it was intermittent ).

I had driven it a few miles (oil pressure was norma per gauge)out of the drag strip to call a tow when it first started the noise(and oil pressure read low again).

Oil pressure gauge now says normal but my tech said the OPG (my original thought )was making pressure so engine is losing oil inside .

Not sure if on3 changed the oil before dropping it off in December with 3000 miles but I had not changed the oil at 4500 miles ,so may have still had the original oil .
 

olaosunt

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I have looked at the logs of the 2 passes I made and was shifting may be too high >7700 rpm.

It also looked like my stock clutch was slipping .
My burn out revs were hard to hold at 5000 rpm and would jump to 7000 rpm.
I am guessing the high revs contributed to my failure based on the earlier explanations on here (thanks for the info) since I was not hot lapping .

I had at least 40 mins cool down to remount my skinnies after the first pass(I had them backwards lol)
 

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Just to add to this thread.

My on3 car was making similar noises after oil pressure light came on(it was intermittent ).

I had driven it a few miles (oil pressure was norma per gauge)out of the drag strip to call a tow when it first started the noise(and oil pressure read low again).

Oil pressure gauge now says normal but my tech said the OPG (my original thought )was making pressure so engine is losing oil inside .

Not sure if on3 changed the oil before dropping it off in December with 3000 miles but I had not changed the oil at 4500 miles ,so may have still had the original oil .

What calibration were you running?
 

olaosunt

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What calibration were you running?
I was running an E85 tune.
First pass was low boost-14.5 psi on the dyno.
Ill fated pass was higher boost 15.6 on dyno .
Fuel/AFR looked on logs of both passes.
Not related to tune or fuel.
 

GSLSE20B

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Nothing wrong with Mobil1 . I've used M1 0-40 in all of my M275 V12 TTs . 800+ lbs of torque for 40k miles . Good enough for a 70k dollar engine , good for a 5k dollar engine .his engine already had an issue from the factory most likely
 

Roh92cp

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I was running an E85 tune.
First pass was low boost-14.5 psi on the dyno.
Ill fated pass was higher boost 15.6 on dyno .
Fuel/AFR looked on logs of both passes.
Not related to tune or fuel.
A couple more question if you will share.

1. What was your power level, trap speed or dyno?

2. It was stock OPG right?

3. How many drag passes?

4. What did you rev it to?
 

Crowderb

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Has anyone heard of AMS racing? I found them looking for built short blocks and they have them for $3650
 

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go with a known company like livernois, l&M, bes, etc..
 

olaosunt

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A couple more question if you will share.

1. What was your power level, trap speed or dyno?

2. It was stock OPG right?

3. How many drag passes?

4. What did you rev it to?
OP,sorry don't mean to thread jack but hopefully the whole community can learn from our experiences(1 too many for me)

1.Car made 816 STD on Dyno jet- I also posted time slips in the on3 thread.

Trapped 136 on first pass.





2.yes ,stock OPG

3.2 passes.
Link to video.

https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=Tt5Ci7smFvk

4.I just looked at my logs again.I thought I was shifting @7500 but max rpm was 7800 and went through the traps@7500.


I thought about keeping the car(along with the GT350 and Hellion car) and just building since I already had all the parts.

Builder said he was going to take 2 weeks to finish.

By the time I added the cost::frusty:

I am able to sell my block and parts for $2500;

Labour to R&R engine $1800;

Machining,disassemble and reassemble long block $1800;

Valve springs $500;

I was not going to go back to the on3 .I had found a buyer for $3500 but wanted kook long tubes with a KB
$6500-3500+2000=$5000

New tuner and tunning at least $500(buyer of on3 would get SCTboost gauge).

Extra $2000 down payment on GT350( and not trading in car with $8K equity)

I was looking @$14K and extra insurance payment(plus $6K less equity in GT 350).

This is assuming heads are still good.

Plenty of parts from on3 car will/may also transfer to Hellion car-halfshafts,not sure if drive shaft will fit auto,$I K fuel system,viking shocks .I may also look at swapping steel diff for aluminum one on auto before trading .


Plus spare ID1000's,uninstalled RXT,Blowfish bracket ,BNIB MGW and lots of Steeda suspension parts(Hellion has BMR parts already) to sell.

Decided to cut my losses and run!
 
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Gibbo205

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OP,sorry don't mean to thread jack but hopefully the whole community can learn from our experiences(1 too many for me)

I am going to say one of two things has happened.

1. OPG has partially failed, maybe missing a teeth or two causing oil pump to not operate at 100% hence low oil pressure, but has not fully broken hence why it still runs albeit with knocking.

2. Your high RPM has damage a rod bearing shell, but as the knocking is intermittent you have probably not fully spun the shell and got lucky as you still have some oil pressure.


Did you drop the oil and inspect it for what looked like glitter in the oil? If it looks glittery/sparkly that is rod bearing material. The top coating is silver, if you have what looks like copper glitter then you went through the top coating right down to the copper in the shells.
 

Roki187

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Sorry OP!!!!! This suck some serious ballz, but we all know the risks+ you never know, could have had an issue from factory. You could put it back to stock and go to ford. I'm sure at least they would throw in a short block. Hope it all works out for you.
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