demon67
Well-Known Member
I suspected as much. thx for confirming.A pillar trim needs to be removed to get to the tweeter. The tabs holding on the plastic grill are also accessed from the back.
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I suspected as much. thx for confirming.A pillar trim needs to be removed to get to the tweeter. The tabs holding on the plastic grill are also accessed from the back.
As Evolved mentioned, yes, you have to remove the A Pillar to get at the tweeter. It's not too bad, but definitely is one of the more challenging pieces to remove in the car. But the improved sound was well worth it, and I didn't break anything in the process, which is always a good thing. ;-)Nice work. Did you have to pry the pillar off to get at that tweeter or can you remove it from the front?
Those turned out nice!As Evolved mentioned, yes, you have to remove the A Pillar to get at the tweeter. It's not too bad, but definitely is one of the more challenging pieces to remove in the car. But the improved sound was well worth it, and I didn't break anything in the process, which is always a good thing. ;-)
Also, for anyone interested in the 3D printing file @StangTime posted above, here is the finished product. My son's 3D printer required a few upgrades to be able to successfully print it using ABS filament, but it turned out great. I love the splashguard piece too to help protect the speaker inside the door.
Now that’s a genius idea. I ended up buying a set of boom mat speaker baffles that I’m gonna cut up to leave a shroud over the top.As Evolved mentioned, yes, you have to remove the A Pillar to get at the tweeter. It's not too bad, but definitely is one of the more challenging pieces to remove in the car. But the improved sound was well worth it, and I didn't break anything in the process, which is always a good thing. ;-)
Also, for anyone interested in the 3D printing file @StangTime posted above, here is the finished product. My son's 3D printer required a few upgrades to be able to successfully print it using ABS filament, but it turned out great. I love the splashguard piece too to help protect the speaker inside the door.
I thought so too! Your design was spot on. Really thankful you made that design up!Those turned out nice!
I'm using a Dayton Audio 10" in the factory B&O enclosure and a Fosgate R500 X1D Amp. With that combo I can turn up the bass quite loudly when top is down, it really rocks.
The single 10" does an awesome job when the top is up, but when I put it down, I think it just absorbs a lot of the bass and another sub would definitely help offset that. If I use two separate boxes instead of one large box, I can remove one when I need additional trunk space. We'll see.
Anyway, appreciate all of the help guys! Definitely wouldn't have had the comfort tackling this project without it.
What stereo system did your car come with? 9 speaker or B&O?Looking for a little assistance. Have an AC D-5.1300 and running Focal 3-way in the front. Had the FO-3 harness “installed” and sounds worse than when I brought it to them on the stock amp. Was told today that there isn’t enough voltage from the head unit and he wants to run it to the stock amp and then back to the AC amp. Doesn’t that sound wrong? I’m getting 2.7V off the head unit and the AC amp can accept down to 600mV.
That doesn't sound correct at all. I'm running the same setup basically except I'm only running a 2 way setup (fully active) in the front and it sounds amazing.Looking for a little assistance. Have an AC D-5.1300 and running Focal 3-way in the front. Had the FO-3 harness “installed” and sounds worse than when I brought it to them on the stock amp. Was told today that there isn’t enough voltage from the head unit and he wants to run it to the stock amp and then back to the AC amp. Doesn’t that sound wrong? I’m getting 2.7V off the head unit and the AC amp can accept down to 600mV.
They used the Focal tweeters which I was hesitant to use in the first place just because the amp is capable of doing all the crossing over and adjustments. While investigating I saw new wires coming from the crossovers going to the “tweeters” and pulled down the A-pillars and the connectors I used and the wire are still there. That kinda puzzled me as I know they are ran in parallel.That doesn't sound correct at all. I'm running the same setup basically except I'm only running a 2 way setup (fully active) in the front and it sounds amazing.
Do you know how they wired up the front speakers?
Are they running them off the Focal crossovers?
Did they run new wires for the tweeters?
From the factory the tweeters and the mids are run off the same channel.
Meant to say Focal crossoversThey used the Focal tweeters which I was hesitant to use in the first place just because the amp is capable of doing all the crossing over and adjustments. While investigating I saw new wires coming from the crossovers going to the “tweeters” and pulled down the A-pillars and the connectors I used and the wire are still there. That kinda puzzled me as I know they are ran in parallel.
I just want to hear the potential of this system and have gone to a few different shops with smug techs/owners that think they know the solution. When I kept telling them I think it’s wired wrong. Now I know for sure and will have to fix it myself.
You don't have enough channels to run the Focal's active, so you would need to run the crossover for at least 2 on each channel.They used the Focal tweeters which I was hesitant to use in the first place just because the amp is capable of doing all the crossing over and adjustments. While investigating I saw new wires coming from the crossovers going to the “tweeters” and pulled down the A-pillars and the connectors I used and the wire are still there. That kinda puzzled me as I know they are ran in parallel.
I just want to hear the potential of this system and have gone to a few different shops with smug techs/owners that think they know the solution. When I kept telling them I think it’s wired wrong. Now I know for sure and will have to fix it myself.