Wiring guide for NON B&O premium audio systems. No LOC required.

Cathul

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I think the code for high-level output is 727-01-01 xx0x xxxx xxxx
I would test this with all amplifier gains set to zero as it could be a fixed output level. (I.E. volume control may not work)
I have not played with this so perhaps @Cathul can add his experience here.

On my system, variable line-level out is damn near silent going into my DSP with balanced inputs and I'm completely happy with it.
If you do the signal cable correctly, twisted pair with a shield, you should have similar results as me. (Cat5e STP network cable can be used)
xx0x is correct, but.... the output from the ACM is always "high-level" in the sense that it's a BTL output. Both wires are carrying a signal. With the "low-level" programming it's just with a lowered output, and therefor not clipping.

 

Cathul

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After having serious noise problems with the DSR1 and minor noise issues with a Kenwood headunit (via Maestro RR unit) i now did the installation as shown in this very thread. Used a CAT7 cable that i had laying around. Almost no noise anymore even with the before extremely noisy Ford ACM.

Thanks for the headup @StangTime !
 
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StangTime

StangTime

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After having serious noise problems with the DSR1 and minor noise issues with a Kenwood headunit (via Maestro RR unit) i now did the installation as shown in this very thread. Used a CAT7 cable that i had laying around. Almost no noise anymore even with the before extremely noisy Ford ACM.

Thanks for the headup @StangTime !
Glad to hear my interconnect method helped you out. :like:
 

deadBird

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Does anyone have a picture of the front right footwell where all of this magic is taking place? It would help me out immensely in trying to imagine what it's supposed to look like. :)

I've got the speedwire, cat5e shielded and whatnot to run up and down the driver's side.
 
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StangTime

StangTime

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Does anyone have a picture of the front right footwell where all of this magic is taking place? It would help me out immensely in trying to imagine what it's supposed to look like. :)

I've got the speedwire, cat5e shielded and whatnot to run up and down the driver's side.
Actually it's the front LEFT footwell. See post #121
And this video:
 


deadBird

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Sweet, thanks StangTime

I do have another question regarding the tweeter wiring...
So I'm doing 6.5" woofers in the doors and rear, and not using the mid-range or center channel.
Focal RSE-165 fronts specifically. So 4 channels.
How and where do I run the wire for the tweeters?

Also, does anybody know if the time alignment (driver only audio mode thingy) off the stereo is coming from the head-unit, or the built-in amplifier? I'm planning on adding my own amp and wondering if I should bother with a DSP.
 

Cathul

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Time alignment is done in the amp. So get a DSP!
Other than that, just route the tweeter cables up to the pillars. Easy to do.
 

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I guess I dunno how to run them up the pillars. :/ Anybody got any pictures? They didn't show how they did that in the video.
Also, would I need to run separate lines from the DSP to the tweeters, or am I fine still running them off the 6.5s?
 

Evolvd

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I guess I dunno how to run them up the pillars. :/ Anybody got any pictures? They didn't show how they did that in the video.
Also, would I need to run separate lines from the DSP to the tweeters, or am I fine still running them off the 6.5s?
You’ll need to remove both A-pillar trim panels to remove the stock tweeters and install your own. You’ll have to decide how to mount them. I dremeled the bracket out and enlarged the hole slightly so I could flush-mount my JL Audio tweeters.

You don’t want to tie your tweeters and subs together if running a DSP. Youll have no way to equalize the signal or tune it to each speaker. Running the wires is easy enough if you have the driver and passenger kick panels removed. I used a metal hanger to fish the wire from the driver footwell, behind the dash against the firewall, and into the passenger footwell.

Beware, the A-pillars are a huge pain in the ass to install. The passenger side is worse than the driver’s. I ended up cutting the alignment tab off the bottom of my passenger one.
 

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That's the amp I have... the HCP5D. It's too big to fit under the dash but fits nicely in the spare tire area mounted to a board. It has all the power I need to really pound with a good 2ohm sub. I highly recommend it.
20210428_205622.jpg


However, if you want to use rear speakers too, you could build a system with 2 HCP4D amps. You would have 75w x4 for the front, 75w x2 for the rear and 260w for a sub (all 4ohm ratings).
Did you end up using the JL 10” or 12” was looking at both but of course Crutchfield says the one that fits is the 10”. Replacing a budget 12” kicker
 
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Did you end up using the JL 10” or 12” was looking at both but of course Crutchfield says the one that fits is the 10”. Replacing a budget 12” kicker
I have the 10" model. JL Audio HO110RG-W3v3. It's more than adequate. Crazy amount of bass from this box.
 

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I've heard the 10" and it sounds great and provides plenty of bass. I've got the 12" W6v3 and it is definitely overkill.
 

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I have the 10" model. JL Audio HO110RG-W3v3. It's more than adequate. Crazy amount of bass from this box.
That’s the one I went with and you were right! Awesome sub and loads of bass. Can you tell me or point me to a post that explains the change to variable line level with Forscan. I did the flat EQ change only. With my setup I’m just kind of wondering if I change the ACM setting will I still have to crank my volume all the way up to max for listening. I have good sound and is loud just wondering where everyone else has solid performance from their system in regards to volume setting? Or if I’m underpowered somewhere.
 
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StangTime

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That’s the one I went with and you were right! Awesome sub and loads of bass. Can you tell me or point me to a post that explains the change to variable line level with Forscan. I did the flat EQ change only. With my setup I’m just kind of wondering if I change the ACM setting will I still have to crank my volume all the way up to max for listening. I have good sound and is loud just wondering where everyone else has solid performance from their system in regards to volume setting? Or if I’m underpowered somewhere.
Did your car come with the 6 speaker system or the 9 ?
If you had the 9 speaker system you already have variable line-level output.

I use almost the entire volume control. I have my amplifier gains set so that the system just begins to clip (distort) at the max level 34 30. Try adjusting your amplifier gains up a little more. But, you can safely use the entire volume control range if you want.

A note on the volume control: Below 17 on the indicator, there is some bass-boost. As you go lower the bass-boost increases. This is good as long as you're driving but listening to the system when parked, the bass can be a bit much. Anything above 17 is basically a beautifully flat signal.
 
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Cathul

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I use almost the entire volume control. I have my amplifier gains set so that the system just begins to clip (distort) at the max level 34. Try adjusting your amplifier gains up a little more. But, you can safely use the entire volume control range if you want.
My volume control maxes out at 30. Is that an AsBuilt thing?
 

 
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