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Wiring guide for NON B&O premium audio systems. No LOC required.

demon67

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A pillar trim needs to be removed to get to the tweeter. The tabs holding on the plastic grill are also accessed from the back.
I suspected as much. thx for confirming.
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luv2fly3

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Nice work. Did you have to pry the pillar off to get at that tweeter or can you remove it from the front?
As Evolved mentioned, yes, you have to remove the A Pillar to get at the tweeter. It's not too bad, but definitely is one of the more challenging pieces to remove in the car. But the improved sound was well worth it, and I didn't break anything in the process, which is always a good thing. ;-)

Also, for anyone interested in the 3D printing file @StangTime posted above, here is the finished product. My son's 3D printer required a few upgrades to be able to successfully print it using ABS filament, but it turned out great. I love the splashguard piece too to help protect the speaker inside the door.

20220710_072609.jpeg
 
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StangTime

StangTime

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As Evolved mentioned, yes, you have to remove the A Pillar to get at the tweeter. It's not too bad, but definitely is one of the more challenging pieces to remove in the car. But the improved sound was well worth it, and I didn't break anything in the process, which is always a good thing. ;-)

Also, for anyone interested in the 3D printing file @StangTime posted above, here is the finished product. My son's 3D printer required a few upgrades to be able to successfully print it using ABS filament, but it turned out great. I love the splashguard piece too to help protect the speaker inside the door.

20220710_072609.jpeg
Those turned out nice!
 

Evolvd

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As Evolved mentioned, yes, you have to remove the A Pillar to get at the tweeter. It's not too bad, but definitely is one of the more challenging pieces to remove in the car. But the improved sound was well worth it, and I didn't break anything in the process, which is always a good thing. ;-)

Also, for anyone interested in the 3D printing file @StangTime posted above, here is the finished product. My son's 3D printer required a few upgrades to be able to successfully print it using ABS filament, but it turned out great. I love the splashguard piece too to help protect the speaker inside the door.

20220710_072609.jpeg
Now that’s a genius idea. I ended up buying a set of boom mat speaker baffles that I’m gonna cut up to leave a shroud over the top.
 

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gpierce

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The single 10" does an awesome job when the top is up, but when I put it down, I think it just absorbs a lot of the bass and another sub would definitely help offset that. If I use two separate boxes instead of one large box, I can remove one when I need additional trunk space. We'll see.

Anyway, appreciate all of the help guys! Definitely wouldn't have had the comfort tackling this project without it.
I'm using a Dayton Audio 10" in the factory B&O enclosure and a Fosgate R500 X1D Amp. With that combo I can turn up the bass quite loudly when top is down, it really rocks.

https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/1108/rss265ho-44-10-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohm

https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/r500x1d/
 

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Should work. As far as I know the 9 speaker system didn’t change.
 

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Looking for a little assistance. Have an AC D-5.1300 and running Focal 3-way in the front. Had the FO-3 harness “installed” and sounds worse than when I brought it to them on the stock amp. Was told today that there isn’t enough voltage from the head unit and he wants to run it to the stock amp and then back to the AC amp. Doesn’t that sound wrong? I’m getting 2.7V off the head unit and the AC amp can accept down to 600mV.
 
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StangTime

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Looking for a little assistance. Have an AC D-5.1300 and running Focal 3-way in the front. Had the FO-3 harness “installed” and sounds worse than when I brought it to them on the stock amp. Was told today that there isn’t enough voltage from the head unit and he wants to run it to the stock amp and then back to the AC amp. Doesn’t that sound wrong? I’m getting 2.7V off the head unit and the AC amp can accept down to 600mV.
What stereo system did your car come with? 9 speaker or B&O?
There's no way it should sound worse unless the installer got it wired wrong or set up the amp incorrectly. Don't let them use the factory amp as a signal source. This is wrong and indicative of an installer that doesn't know what he's dealing with.
 

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yonson

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Looking for a little assistance. Have an AC D-5.1300 and running Focal 3-way in the front. Had the FO-3 harness “installed” and sounds worse than when I brought it to them on the stock amp. Was told today that there isn’t enough voltage from the head unit and he wants to run it to the stock amp and then back to the AC amp. Doesn’t that sound wrong? I’m getting 2.7V off the head unit and the AC amp can accept down to 600mV.
That doesn't sound correct at all. I'm running the same setup basically except I'm only running a 2 way setup (fully active) in the front and it sounds amazing.

Do you know how they wired up the front speakers?
Are they running them off the Focal crossovers?
Did they run new wires for the tweeters?
From the factory the tweeters and the mids are run off the same channel.
 

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I have the Non B&O, 9 speaker system. Did a little exploring and saw how this “installer” used taps to feed back into the factory wiring for the tweeters. I brought it to his boss at their other shop and he was the one telling me I needed the RF DSR-1 or he needed to tap into the factory amp because there wasn’t enough power. Can turn the gain all the way up on input and output side and not get it to clip.
 

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That doesn't sound correct at all. I'm running the same setup basically except I'm only running a 2 way setup (fully active) in the front and it sounds amazing.

Do you know how they wired up the front speakers?
Are they running them off the Focal crossovers?
Did they run new wires for the tweeters?
From the factory the tweeters and the mids are run off the same channel.
They used the Focal tweeters which I was hesitant to use in the first place just because the amp is capable of doing all the crossing over and adjustments. While investigating I saw new wires coming from the crossovers going to the “tweeters” and pulled down the A-pillars and the connectors I used and the wire are still there. That kinda puzzled me as I know they are ran in parallel.
I just want to hear the potential of this system and have gone to a few different shops with smug techs/owners that think they know the solution. When I kept telling them I think it’s wired wrong. Now I know for sure and will have to fix it myself.
 

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They used the Focal tweeters which I was hesitant to use in the first place just because the amp is capable of doing all the crossing over and adjustments. While investigating I saw new wires coming from the crossovers going to the “tweeters” and pulled down the A-pillars and the connectors I used and the wire are still there. That kinda puzzled me as I know they are ran in parallel.
I just want to hear the potential of this system and have gone to a few different shops with smug techs/owners that think they know the solution. When I kept telling them I think it’s wired wrong. Now I know for sure and will have to fix it myself.
Meant to say Focal crossovers
 

yonson

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They used the Focal tweeters which I was hesitant to use in the first place just because the amp is capable of doing all the crossing over and adjustments. While investigating I saw new wires coming from the crossovers going to the “tweeters” and pulled down the A-pillars and the connectors I used and the wire are still there. That kinda puzzled me as I know they are ran in parallel.
I just want to hear the potential of this system and have gone to a few different shops with smug techs/owners that think they know the solution. When I kept telling them I think it’s wired wrong. Now I know for sure and will have to fix it myself.
You don't have enough channels to run the Focal's active, so you would need to run the crossover for at least 2 on each channel.

If I had to run that setup I'd personally run the woofers active on their own channel as they need the most power, then the mid/tweeter passive off the Focal crossover on the other channel (just make sure there is new wiring run from the tweeter to the crossover modules) then when you are setting up the DSP you can experiment between using the mid and tweeter for the time alignment.
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