Wiring guide for NON B&O premium audio systems. No LOC required.

[StangTime]

My volume control maxes out at 30. Is that an AsBuilt thing?

Maybe mine does too. I'll have to double check. I'm never wrong though.

Edit: 30 is the max. I just checked. Sorry about that.

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[GIjoe]

Did your car come with the 6 speaker system or the 9 ?
If you had the 9 speaker system you already have variable line-level output.

I use almost the entire volume control. I have my amplifier gains set so that the system just begins to clip (distort) at the max level 34 30. Try adjusting your amplifier gains up a little more. But, you can safely use the entire volume control range if you want.

A note on the volume control: Below 17 on the indicator, there is some bass-boost. As you go lower the bass-boost increases. This is good as long as you're driving but listening to the system when parked, the bass can be a bit much. Anything above 17 is basically a beautifully flat signal.

I have the 9 speaker system.
Used the FO3 connector and bypassed the amp. Audio control d-5-1300 run to focal 3 way speakers in the front on a passive crossover. With the JL sub. Lots of volume at the max volume. Set the timing loosely and slopes at 12db. The part I was a little concerned with is my gains are all the way up when we set up the amp with pink noise and it didn’t clip at all. Maybe a good thing but that was why I was concerned I wasn’t getting enough power somewhere. Any ideas I know it’s hard to diagnose from a description. TIA your diagrams and help along with everyone else has been great and I’m really close to having the system that I’ve always wanted.

 

[StangTime]

I have the 9 speaker system.
Used the FO3 connector and bypassed the amp. Audio control d-5-1300 run to focal 3 way speakers in the front on a passive crossover. With the JL sub. Lots of volume at the max volume. Set the timing loosely and slopes at 12db. The part I was a little concerned with is my gains are all the way up when we set up the amp with pink noise and it didn’t clip at all. Maybe a good thing but that was why I was concerned I wasn’t getting enough power somewhere. Any ideas I know it’s hard to diagnose from a description. TIA your diagrams and help along with everyone else has been great and I’m really close to having the system that I’ve always wanted.

Glad to be able to help anyone out.

Are you using the line level inputs or the speaker level inputs on your amp?

 

[GIjoe]

Glad to be able to help anyone out.

Are you using the line level inputs or the speaker level inputs on your amp?

Speaker level inputs.

 

[StangTime]

Speaker level inputs.

The Ford head unit puts out 3V rms. The line level inputs on your amp are 6V rms max. The speaker level inputs are 40V rms max. See the issue? The speaker level inputs are far less sensitive and require the gains to be turned way up. The line level inputs are a better match for the head unit. If it were my system, I would use the line level inputs and adjust the gains down if needed. Here's the kicker though... the line level inputs may not be balanced and the noise floor could end up higher. Plus you would need a few wire to RCA adapters and then there's dealing with the amplifier remote turn on. Did you wire it or are you using signal sensing?

 

[GIjoe]

The Ford head unit puts out 3V rms. The line level inputs on your amp are 6V rms max. The speaker level inputs are 40V rms max. See the issue? The speaker level inputs are far less sensitive and require the gains to be turned way up. The line level inputs are a better match for the head unit. If it were my system, I would use the line level inputs and adjust the gains down if needed. Here's the kicker though... the line level inputs may not be balanced and the noise floor could end up higher. Plus you would need a few wire to RCA adapters and then there's dealing with the amplifier remote turn on. Did you wire it or are you using signal sensing?

Using signal sensing. Audiocontrols seem to handle this pretty well but it may become an issue will have to grab that wire from the camera (I think that was the one) I may have to pick up some of the RCA adapters you linked and maybe run the cat6 cable with adapters you talked about in the original posts once I make my move in a couple weeks. Might be some trial and error to see what works best.

 

[Cathul]

The Ford head unit puts out 3V rms. The line level inputs on your amp are 6V rms max. The speaker level inputs are 40V rms max. See the issue? The speaker level inputs are far less sensitive and require the gains to be turned way up. The line level inputs are a better match for the head unit. If it were my system, I would use the line level inputs and adjust the gains down if needed. Here's the kicker though... the line level inputs may not be balanced and the noise floor could end up higher. Plus you would need a few wire to RCA adapters and then there's dealing with the amplifier remote turn on. Did you wire it or are you using signal sensing?

While the output voltage is low, the signal itself is still a "high-level" signal in a way that it's a stepped down BTL signal. That's why signal sensing works with the ACM if the amplifier supports that.
That being said, it might happen, that you get system noise when using low-level inputs on an amplifier that is not designed for low-level BTL signals.

 

[GIjoe]

Audio control just added a few little “extras” with a recent firmware update. They added in all-pass filter enabling. Is that something we are already doing with Forscan? Or is this something that should be enabled for a better signal? Just curious if any of you have dealt with all-pass filters and have some insight.

 

[Cathul]

You don't need allpass filters for your input signal and most probably you don't need one on your output either.
If you really don't know what an allpass filter does, you should probably keep your fingers away from them as they really can screw up your imaging when used incorrectly.

 

[Danao91]

Hello Guys,

Thanks for all your informations.
I'm following your methodology with the AF03 harness and I have a question :
- My amp (Musway D8v3 8 channel including DSP) has 8 high level inputs (10 V RMS or 18V RMS)
but only 2 low level inputs)
From what I understood I should use the 2 low levels inputs ? What are the drawbacks ?

Thanks

 

[StangTime]

Hello Guys,

Thanks for all your informations.
I'm following your methodology with the AF03 harness and I have a question :
- My amp (Musway D8v3 8 channel including DSP) has 8 high level inputs (10 V RMS or 18V RMS)
but only 2 low level inputs)
From what I understood I should use the 2 low levels inputs ? What are the drawbacks ?

Thanks

Use the low level inputs and the Front L & R outputs of the head unit. This provides a 3V RMS output that will pair well with the 4V line level input on the amp. The only downside is you can't control the fader (Front to Rear) on the stereo. I always suggest not to do rear speakers anyway as this drags the stage away from the front of the car. Your Musway can take the L & R from the head unit and do the output channel mapping. If you really want rear speakers and the ability to fade, add the Musway DRC1 controller, you would then have the ability to do fading from the controller but not the head unit.

 

[Danao91]

Use the low level inputs and the Front L & R outputs of the head unit. This provides a 3V RMS output that will pair well with the 4V line level input on the amp. The only downside is you can't control the fader (Front to Rear) on the stereo. I always suggest not to do rear speakers anyway as this drags the stage away from the front of the car. Your Musway can take the L & R from the head unit and do the output channel mapping. If you really want rear speakers and the ability to fade, add the Musway DRC1 controller, you would then have the ability to do fading from the controller but not the head unit.

Hello,

I just wanted to share with you that my premium audio is now finished.
I took me 2 weeks (it was the first time for me) and the sound is incredible !!!!!!
A BIG BIG thank to StangTime for your methodology.

Everything is working in the car (rear camera, bip, waze.....)

My audio system is now :
- Amp Musway D8v3
- Front tweeter + woofer : Focal IS 165
- Front midrange : Inifinity Kappa
- Rear : Focal IC 165
- Subwoofer : Hertz ESF 20.5

Thanks

 

[StangTime]

Hello,

I just wanted to share with you that my premium audio is now finished.
I took me 2 weeks (it was the first time for me) and the sound is incredible !!!!!!
A BIG BIG thank to StangTime for your methodology.

Everything is working in the car (rear camera, bip, waze.....)

My audio system is now :
- Amp Musway D8v3
- Front tweeter + woofer : Focal IS 165
- Front midrange : Inifinity Kappa
- Rear : Focal IC 165
- Subwoofer : Hertz ESF 20.5

Thanks

I'm glad you were able to use this info to build yourself a great system. Enjoy!

 

[c4rn4g3]

StangTime, thanks for the great guide. But I need help, sorry for the long post

Ecoboost 2022 with 9 speakers.

Started an upgrade based on this thread.
Connected 2 amps, no DSP.
Was ok but there was some pink/white noise when tuning the gain to 50% or more on amps. 17 ft RCA cables driver side. 4 gauge power wire passenger side.
Added Axxess AXDSPX-FD2 DSP, noise level became lower. Used 17ft RCAs initially for connection and RCA-AV connectors. Some wires were simply twisted. With DSP I was able to mute every channel and it worked fine.

But then, I received ordered RCAs to wire with gold connectors(CNCESS CESS-063-1f), and installed them, at the same time I mounted AMPs to the trunk/back seat, removed unnecessary wires not related to speakers from the HRN-AR-FO3 harness, connected tweeters back(were disconnected due to tweeters on mid speakers) and the following happened.

When gold connectors touched each other on outputs - they switched the amp to protect mode for a while and after that, the noise level increased adding variable interference from different speakers randomly. One right front speaker stopped randomly giving the sound(mid or woofer). And DSP which was working fine before - stopped muting channels normally - muting one - nothing is playing at all. Muting front - the sub is muted and etc.

Tried returning the cut cable to the harness. Checked all connections. Tried disconnecting tweeters. Tried disconnecting the amps. Tried twisted wires again. No changes. Changed AMPS - issue persists. Returned Axxess AXDSPX-FD2 DSP and all wires, and ordered another DSP.

Final setup 9 speakers with sub, 2 amps, 1 DSP:

Front Woofer+Tw: Focal RSE-165
Mid+Center: Kenwood Excelon KFC-X3C
Rear: Focal RCX-165
DSP: Hertz S8 DSP
AMP: Kicker 46CXA3604 + Kicker 46CXA6605
SUB: Kicker CompR 10"
Speaker Cables: Conext Link MSC918-20 20 Feet 9 Conductors Speaker Cable 18 AWG Gauge GA 100% OFC Copper Stranded Trailer - IN driver, OUT passenger side
Power: 4 Gauge split to 3x8 Gauge - passenger side
Ground: 4 Gauge split to 3x8 Gauge
Remote: Default remote wire with twisted cables between AMPs - driver IN audio cable

Connections:
5ch Kicker: Front Woofers, Rears, Sub
4ch Kicker: Front Mid+Tweeters, Center.
Wires: heat shrink connectors, RCA-AV adapters for input to DSP.

Didn't do additional shielding, RCA cables between DSP and AMP are temp long ones, waiting for Amazon, but don't believe that they will improve the situation.
PRE IN/DIGITAL IN port was used on DSP.
Head Unit was coded with Forscan previously and double-checked again.

DSP default settings; gain on amps is set to 1/3.
Using the default turn-on cable for 3 devices turns them on, but not sure if it is enough.
The sound is amazing, but I can hear white/pink noise more clearly than it was on the first try with other DSP(when everything was fine) and without DSP at all - with amps.
And the worth thing - I still have variable interferences but not so awful as it was with the previous DSP. It is mostly from the rear speakers and not really noticeable from the 1st row. Additionally, it is sometimes present on the center speaker as well. Sometimes it is not present at all, only white/pink noise. Appears always on ACC ON, not sometimes present when turning off the engine after a ride and still sitting in the car with Head Unit on.

Disconnecting 1 and 2 input channels from 5ch AMP eliminates interferences.
It was the same behavior as the previous DSP but that DSP went crazy even more. Feels like that something happened with the Head Unit output signal. Used Kicker 5ch amp without DSP and the white/pink noise level was barely noticeable and there were no interferences.

Completed setup of DSP - became a bit better but anyway, I'm not using gain on amps at all. But I want to use gain.
Another thing - I have a non-default ACM 727 01 01 setup. I don't remember how it was by default but resetting to the factory or Ford website doesn't help. It disables part of the speakers, looks like it is the default for 6 speakers.
So the current setup is ACM 727-01-01 185A 3202 4Exx

So what can be done to reduce the noise level and interference?
Btw, what should I do with:
1. an empty channel 4 input on 4ch Kicker?
2. empty inputs 5-6 on Hertz DSP?
3. sub output from DSP is 1xRCA but the amp has 2xRCA for sub - buy Y male-to-male splitter?

The noise with gain

 

[StangTime]

StangTime, thanks for the great guide. But I need help, sorry for the long post

Ecoboost 2022 with 9 speakers.

Started an upgrade based on this thread.
SNIPPED

Wow. That is a lot to try and unwrap. I don't hear any noise in your video. Maybe my laptop speakers don't play the noise frequencies.

First thing to do is set that DSP up correctly. The gains are likely not optimized and you are amplifying noise. You said you are using the default settings. I suggest setting the input level adjustments as a start. You can read how here: https://hertz-audio.zendesk.com/hc/en-gb/articles/5793531608593

If that doesn't help then the other thing could be the RCA cables. The better option is using shielded twisted pair for an interconnect. I explain how to do that early on in this thread using Cat5E STP ethernet cable. The head unit has double ended outputs and the DSP has differential inputs. Therefore shielded twisted pair makes the most sense. The only thing better is optical with some expensive interface adapter.

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