Whipple Installation

[Gee]

After ordering back on 1/13, the Whipple Stg 1 kit showed up on 2/7, right in line with normal lead time for 15-17 kits. I started the installation this weekend and day 1 went perfectly smooth, made it to step 60, plugs installed in about 6hrs. I'm in no rush since we're in the middle of winter in the NE. It'll probably take a few days over the weekends to get it complete.

I wanted to document a few things people should pick up if they plan to install one of these systems themselves as well as point out any tips along the way.

First, I found this video posted January this year of a near step by step install. It's been an extremely helpful visual tool. The pictures in the instructions are great, but video of the steps is invaluable. Some of the connectors that need to come off aren't exactly easy to figure out how to release, but this video covers them.


If you're looking for a copy of the install manual, the latest version isn't published anywhere. Below is the installation manual in PDF for the 15-17 kit from Lethal's site, HOWEVER, the revision is from February 2015. It can be used a decent guide to read through in preparation as many of the steps haven't changed, but the actual manual that comes with the kit was updated in October 2018.
https://www.lethalperformance.com/downloads/dl/file/id/297/my15_ford_mustang_reva1r8_low.pdf

Link from Whipple website to download the latest Flare Flash Instructions:
https://whipplesuperchargers.com/index.php?dispatch=attachments.getfile&attachment_id=185

Highly recommend taking inventory of everything that you receive with the kit. Whipple provides a BOM that you can back check to every part received. Really well packaged. As you get into the tear down I recommend putting all bolts that come off the car into baggies and labeling for future reference, or even taping them to whatever part of the car they came off of. I'm a bit of a stickler for staying organized.

Recommend getting your car inspected beforehand if you're near or close to renewal. The kit is 50 state legal, but if you're not driving the car regularly it may take a while for all the readiness lights to go green. Getting it done beforehand buys you a year or two depending on which state you live in.

First thing to do once you get your kit is yank out the Flare tool (cantaloupe) and pull the info required to get your tune voucher going. it may take a day or two and if you plan to do the entire install in a weekend, you don't want to be waiting on the tune file.

The install does NOT have to be done on jack stands, however, you need to take out the drivers side wheel well. Once that's out and you get the bumper and belly pan off the car can be lowered to the ground.

Here are some parts that I think most people should pick up for the install. i'm not going to go into every socket adapter, wrench or tool, but these are a few things I didn't happen to have:
- 4-5 gallon drain pan with spout
- Funnel with mesh screen
- Lisle 24680 Spill Free Funnel - I guess this is optional, but Whipple instructions mention it for filling the HE and the procedure for cycling out the air bubbles.
- Hose Clamp Pliers (THESE ARE A MUST!) I bought these because they had a pair locally at an advance auto parts store. They worked fantastically and made removal of the hose clamps much easier.
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W80656-Flexible-Pliers/dp/B00AN8DOBG
- Spark plug gap gauge and feeler gauge. You need the tool with the fork for adjusting the ground strap without touching the electrode. Feeler gauge for checking gap. My plugs came perfectly gapped @ .028, but everyone should check theirs. I received Denso 5340 (ITV22) plugs. I called Whipple and was told they have switched to the Denso over the NGK 6510 (LTR7IX-11).

I'll update this as I get through future steps and come across additional info I think might be helpful, but was looking to consolidate some of this stuff into one location for future searchers.

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[Torinate]

Thanks! Much appreciated!

Do you have Adaptive Cruise?

Sub’d for more updates!

 

[Gee]

Thanks! Much appreciated!

Do you have Adaptive Cruise?

Sub’d for more updates!

You're welcome, just glad to do what I can to give back at least a little to the community. I do not have adaptive cruise.

 

[Bbarfoot14]

After ordering back on 1/13, the Whipple Stg 1 kit showed up on 2/7, right in line with normal lead time for 15-17 kits. I started the installation this weekend and day 1 went perfectly smooth, made it to step 60, plugs installed in about 6hrs. I'm in no rush since we're in the middle of winter in the NE. It'll probably take a few days over the weekends to get it complete.

I wanted to document a few things people should pick up if they plan to install one of these systems themselves as well as point out any tips along the way.

First, I found this video posted January this year of a near step by step install. It's been an extremely helpful visual tool. The pictures in the instructions are great, but video of the steps is invaluable. Some of the connectors that need to come off aren't exactly easy to figure out how to release, but this video covers them.


If you're looking for a copy of the install manual, the latest version isn't published anywhere. Below is the installation manual in PDF for the 15-17 kit from Lethal's site, HOWEVER, the revision is from February 2015. It can be used a decent guide to read through in preparation as many of the steps haven't changed, but the actual manual that comes with the kit was updated in October 2018.
https://www.lethalperformance.com/downloads/dl/file/id/297/my15_ford_mustang_reva1r8_low.pdf

Link from Whipple website to download the latest Flare Flash Instructions:
https://whipplesuperchargers.com/index.php?dispatch=attachments.getfile&attachment_id=185

Highly recommend taking inventory of everything that you receive with the kit. Whipple provides a BOM that you can back check to every part received. Really well packaged. As you get into the tear down I recommend putting all bolts that come off the car into baggies and labeling for future reference, or even taping them to whatever par”


Dude this is so funny. I live in NE.. mass to be specific. Just finished my install and first test drive this weekend. It’s amazing... but the install instructions are way off... that video is very helpful but somethings are still off. Feel free to PM me and I’ll mention a few things right off the jump

 

[Gee]

I’m only through step 60, feel free to mention anything you have input on. That’s the whole point of this thread. Cool you’re local, have to try and get a few together in the area to head to Epping in the spring!

 

[ypena02]

@Gee I'm local too and race at New England Dragway frequently! I would be down for an s550 meet at NED!

 

[Gee]

A few tips related to fluids. If you're like me and don't want to get fuel or coolant everywhere these tips will keep your engine fluid free.

Fuel - once you've followed the steps to release pressure in the fuel rail and you're ready to disconnect the main fuel line on the d/s rail, unlock the connector but before you pull it apart wrap it in a towel. There will be a tiny amount of pressure that may squirt and a tablespoon or two of fuel will come out. Lower the end of the hose while holding it in the towel and any residual fuel will drip into the towel.

Coolant - I left the coolant drain plug out the entire first 6 hours of install. it drips forever. There will still be coolant in the high points of the system (d/s and p/s hoses that run from the firewall across the intake, the big upper radiator hose that connects to junction T at the block). Once you pop off the d/s and p/s side hoses, drop the disconnected side down low while putting the ends in a cup or towel. After draining swing the hoses out of the way and rest them on towels to catch any residual. The upper radiator hose is the big one. I had about 15-20oz of coolant come out of that bad boy. I put the end into a standard issue beer-pong solo cup and it filled it right up, especially when I lowered the end down towards the bottom of the engine bay, then i rested it in a towel down at the bottom of the bay to catch any residual drips.

Minor tips here, but who wants fluid all over the place...

 

[maxchaney]

Thanks! Much appreciated!

Do you have Adaptive Cruise?

Sub’d for more updates!

I have adaptive cruise. I had to cut off a small bolt and drill a hole in the adaptive cruise bracket to install the coolant tank. No instructions for that one, but I was able to make it work. I never took the adaptive cruise bracket or sensor off, so nothing had to be re-calibrated.

 

[Torinate]

I have adaptive cruise. I had to cut off a small bolt and drill a hole in the adaptive cruise bracket to install the coolant tank. No instructions for that one, but I was able to make it work. I never took the adaptive cruise bracket or sensor off, so nothing had to be re-calibrated.

That’s good to know! No problems with it working either? Do you have the bigger heat exchanger? Any pics of what you did? So the sensor doesn’t have to be taken off to put in the heat exchange and coolant tank?

Thanks for your help!

 

[maxchaney]

That’s good to know! No problems with it working either? Do you have the bigger heat exchanger? Any pics of what you did? So the sensor doesn’t have to be taken off to put in the heat exchange and coolant tank?

Thanks for your help!

I have the smaller heat exchanger, so no help there :-( Everything works ok after the install with cruise and collision warnings. I admit, it was an absolute royal pain just to get the regular size heat exchanger in there. I didn't take the bracket off, but I did have to grind a bolt/stud off and drill a hole in the adaptive bracket to get both coolant tank bolts in. I will try and find a pic if I can. I remember being frustrated and forgot to take a lot of pictures.

 

[moffetts]

ACC doesn’t fit with the big one. Nobody has said otherwise except whipple themselves but I call shenanigans on that.

 

[Torinate]

ACC doesn’t fit with the big one. Nobody has said otherwise except whipple themselves but I call shenanigans on that.

Exactly.
I’ve been asking everyone here if it fits and if there’s issues. I emailed Whipple and they said it does.

I emailed Lethal as well as Terry beefcake asking if they’ve done it and if it fits and actually works. Haven’t heard back yet...

If I do go Whipple, I want the big heat exchanger and want the adaptive cruise to work.

How much better is the big heat exchanger over the regular?

 

[Gee]

Update after a weekend of additional installation.

1. The belt I received with my kit was a Gates K061025 (102.5"). Based on the Whipple belt sizing chart I needed the K061031 (103.1") for the 3.75" pulley that came with the kit. I picked one up from O'Reilly's. Tight, but it fit fine with the adjustable idler at about 90% towards passenger side. The auto tensioner is pretty close to it's upper limit. As it heat cycles and stretches some I'll adjust that idler more towards the drivers side. The 102.5" would not go on with two grown men honking on it and the adjustable idler 100% towards the passenger side.

2. People saying it's impossible to torque the bolts that hold the supercharger to the block with the fuel rails installed didn't have the right tools. I have both the standard and metric versions of the Husky Long Ball Hex Bit Socket sets, purchased in any Home Depot store. They worked perfectly, zero issues getting to the bolts and torquing.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-Drive-SAE-Long-Ball-Hex-Bit-Socket-Set-7-Piece-H3DSAELBBS7PCN/206869940?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|D25T|25-1_HAND+TOOLS|NA|LIA|71700000043839315|58700004592003384|92700038837660279&gclid=CjwKCAiA767jBRBqEiwAGdAOr9BweLylR3xhipUVGNppgeiaIuYfjUlGDhNV7VO5pxVrcVCGO_pVVhoC8FEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

3. The directions DO NOT mention the o-ring that goes between the stock throttle body and the adapter plate for stage 1 kits. You need to remove your stock o-ring and fit it into the adapter plate. The picture in the directions show the o-ring in there, but no text mentioning to use stock one. There isn't another one with the kit, so I used the stocker.

4. The directions also don't mention the bolts for the stock throttle body to the adapter plate. The kit comes with (4) M6x50 which I used, I didn't reuse the stock ones.

5. The bend on the 3/4" hose which goes from the lower coolant neck connection to the HE tank is pretty severe once you lower the air box down in there. I cut about 1-1.5" off the end of that hose at the 90* bend side to lessen the severity of the pinching.

6. If you don't have them, do yourself a favor and buy the standard and metric version of Hex Bit Socket sets. Available at any Home Depot.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3...it-Socket-Set-7-Piece-H3DMM7PCHBSSR/203559457

I'm at the step where you attach the relay wire harness near the fuse box and make those connections. I did hit a snafu with the MAF extender harness. Kit comes with an extender for the MAF and the throttle body cables, not labeled which is which, but neither of those extenders worked for the MAF, have an email into Whipple tech to get resolved.

Whipple belt sizing chart for reference:

 

[Bbarfoot14]

Update after a weekend of additional installation.

1. The belt I received with my kit was a Gates K061025 (102.5"). Based on the Whipple belt sizing chart I needed the K061031 (103.1") for the 3.75" pulley that came with the kit. I picked one up from O'Reilly's. Tight, but it fit fine with the adjustable idler at about 90% towards passenger side. The auto tensioner is pretty close to it's upper limit. As it heat cycles and stretches some I'll adjust that idler more towards the drivers side. The 102.5" would not go on with two grown men honking on it and the adjustable idler 100% towards the passenger side.

2. People saying it's impossible to torque the bolts that hold the supercharger to the block with the fuel rails installed didn't have the right tools. I have both the standard and metric versions of the Husky Long Ball Hex Bit Socket sets, purchased in any Home Depot store. They worked perfectly, zero issues getting to the bolts and torquing.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-Drive-SAE-Long-Ball-Hex-Bit-Socket-Set-7-Piece-H3DSAELBBS7PCN/206869940?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|D25T|25-1_HAND+TOOLS|NA|LIA|71700000043839315|58700004592003384|92700038837660279&gclid=CjwKCAiA767jBRBqEiwAGdAOr9BweLylR3xhipUVGNppgeiaIuYfjUlGDhNV7VO5pxVrcVCGO_pVVhoC8FEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

3. The directions DO NOT mention the o-ring that goes between the stock throttle body and the adapter plate for stage 1 kits. You need to remove your stock o-ring and fit it into the adapter plate. The picture in the directions show the o-ring in there, but no text mentioning to use stock one. There isn't another one with the kit, so I used the stocker.

4. The directions also don't mention the bolts for the stock throttle body to the adapter plate. The kit comes with (4) M6x50 which I used, I didn't reuse the stock ones.

5. The bend on the 3/4" hose which goes from the lower coolant neck connection to the HE tank is pretty severe once you lower the air box down in there. I cut about 1-1.5" off the end of that hose at the 90* bend side to lessen the severity of the pinching.

6. If you don't have them, do yourself a favor and buy the standard and metric version of Hex Bit Socket sets. Available at any Home Depot.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3...it-Socket-Set-7-Piece-H3DMM7PCHBSSR/203559457

I'm at the step where you attach the relay wire harness near the fuse box and make those connections. I did hit a snafu with the MAF extender harness. Kit comes with an extender for the MAF and the throttle body cables, not labeled which is which, but neither of those extenders worked for the MAF, have an email into Whipple tech to get resolved.

Whipple belt sizing chart for reference:

In regards to #2, that’s simply a recommendation from shops that install a ton of these as it’s much easier. It can be done the way whipple instructs... just takes longer.

The MAF is labeled. Look for the bag that has a number label on the bag... reference it to the label on the larger bag the cords came in, that will show you which part number corisponds to which cord.

 

[Gee]

In regards to #2, that’s simply a recommendation from shops that install a ton of these as it’s much easier. It can be done the way whipple instructs... just takes longer.

The MAF is labeled. Look for the bag that has a number label on the bag... reference it to the label on the larger bag the cords came in, that will show you which part number corisponds to which cord.

Quite honestly, it could not have been any easier, the metric version of the long ball hex I linked got at them perfectly.

Figured out the connector issue. I inadvertently plugged the MAF one into the throttle body. When I pulled it out the red core came out inside the plug. I didn’t notice as it looked normal, Whipple noticed, I fixed and both went in fine.

For reference, the plug labeled as 105908, P/N: JEEP ETC, is for the throttle body connection.

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