Which first: Strut brace or K-member?

[mrbydangel]

As the title says, which would you do first? Planning on doing both eventually, but curious what everyone's opinions are on which one to do first.

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[NJMike]

would be helpful for us to know why you are considering each and where you think each one should be in terms of importance to you and any future plans you may have.

For example a strut tower is inexpensive and easy to install yourself. But if you plan on a S/C down the road, that tower brace may not fit with the S/C.

The K member lowers the motor, makes it easier for long tubes, improves handling a bit..

 

[mrbydangel]

I don't plan on doing any forced induction, so that's not a consideration for me. Long term modlist is mostly suspension/chassis, and at the moment I'm looking to make the front end feel a bit more responsive, especially on turn transitions. For example, I deal with a lot of small roundabouts on a daily basis, and that direction change never feels easy as I'd like.

 

[WD Pro]

Strut tower brace - it looks cool and it's easier to show off without getting down on you hands and knees at the car meet / car n coffee ... lol

Joking aside, if you are missing the tower brace, consider doing that with the other PP braces and then adding the additional lower BMR or Steeda front brace

WD

 

[monte87]

would be helpful for us to know why you are considering each and where you think each one should be in terms of importance to you and any future plans you may have.

For example a strut tower is inexpensive and easy to install yourself. But if you plan on a S/C down the road, that tower brace may not fit with the S/C.

The K member lowers the motor, makes it easier for long tubes, improves handling a bit..

The only strut tower brace that will clear Roush blowers are SCHROPP tuning from Germany. I have it and love it. Great piece!!
Anthony

 

[MAGS1]

I did the FP strut tower brace that comes with the cowl brace. Make sure to get the cowl extension piece too (have to get that separate, there’s a thread around that has the part number). I plan on adding the Steeda 2 point G Trac brace underneath to tie it all together. I’m not planning anything crazy, just want to tighten up the feel like you’re looking for. I’ll be installing the Steeda IRS braces soon too to help with the rear a bit

 

[paulm1]

I don't plan on doing any forced induction, so that's not a consideration for me. Long term modlist is mostly suspension/chassis, and at the moment I'm looking to make the front end feel a bit more responsive, especially on turn transitions. For example, I deal with a lot of small roundabouts on a daily basis, and that direction change never feels easy as I'd like.

Do the strut tower brace (3 piece) and steeda g-track brace underneath. I dont think you need to spend the money on the k. Thats what i did, turn in and response are a lot better.

 

[mustang_puppy]

I don't think it matters in terms of a specific order in which to do those modifications, but I did the GT350R strut tower brace and cowl extension first. Some time later I put in a Steeda 2 point brace. The front end is noticeably stiffer. I am thinking of doing the K brace anyway, in addition to other modifications, for weight savings.

 

[Shadetree43]

Whatever you choose, be aware that on the 5 "studs" that come up thru the strut tower have two different threads. The three on the strut cap itself are one thread, the two closest to the engine (and longest) are another. One nut is 10m/1.25, the other is 10m/1.50. With the nylock insert it's easy to get confused and cross thread them. I do not recall which is which, but they are different.
Also it looks like if you have the OEM 20" wheel package, that includes the cowl brace as well as the extension piece.
There is a multi page discussion on this subject from 2015-16 on this forum. I just don't have the link right at the moment.

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