Wheel size increase

[klumpikat]

Just bought a 2023 Mach 1 with the ordinary stock 5 spoke wheels and tires. Does not have the handling package. What tweaks do I need to make in order to change the stock tires to 305 front & 315 rear? Will they rub? TIA

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[Skye]

Congrats on the new ride. Beautiful car.

If sticking with the factory rims and offsets, changing from non-HP to HP wheels and tires will not rub.

https://www.google.com/search?q=mus...HQ2MDrQQrQIoAnoECBsQAw&biw=1460&bih=739&dpr=2

Enclosed is some starting information, to let the gears grind while contemplating the change. Being wheels and tires, you should receive a good amount of responses to help in making any decisions.

The following links will allow you to judge differences in wheel and tire sizing.

https://tiresize.com/comparison/

https://akalloys.co.uk/pages/rim-wi...2gTSyOorHJNoYgFRCCNmsPgNC6JhMnh56RpXRR-uatwc9

A general rule of thumb is to stay within 3% of the existing circumference. You can stray from this figure, but the more you do, the greater risk there is of speedo, ABS or shift point differences. In going from a given diameter to something way shorter or taller, you're effectively changing the gear ratio of the diff.

I did some initial comparisons, first, doing a straight swap. In the direct swap scenario, the fronts are within 3% of factory. But the rears are close to 5% out. In the second comparison, I changed the tire profile to a 35 sidewall; this brought the circumference much closer. I did not study tire sizing on-line or differences if going a bit skinnier on the tire width. This exercise was just an initial "what-if".

From a quick read of one of the threads referenced above...One thing to keep in mind: going from a 40 profile sidewall to a 30 could produce a greater gap in the wheel arch. Going back to tire sizing, at least a few commented on using the HP rims, with a slightly skinnier, 35 profile tire; this reduced the wheel arch gap, increased tire selection choices and brought the circumference closer to the originals.

For those that did the straight swap, rims and tires, I didn't study the threads for their feedback, how things were (speedo, shifting, etc.) afterwards.

Wheel offsets, so you can see the differences.

Mach non-HP wheels are +40 front, +52.5 rear, 255/40/19, 275/40/19, 19x9.5, 19x10.

Mach HP wheels are +24 front, +52 rear, 305/30/19 and 315/30/19, 19x10.5, 19x11.

The non-HP to HP rim swap is straight take-off and put-on. No suspension changes will be needed. In changing the rim and tire size, it'd probably be a good idea to get an alignment, if anything to ensure the bits are dialed-in nicely for the new tires.

There are aftermarket "bird cage" wheels.

https://www.steeda.com/ford-perform...UYLw_UvFq5j1Nm_BkfsnNF2d-TyAqy4jKtgjQr3-Hjex-

Or, factory.

https://www.levittownfordparts.com/...JZyrzm22soToAv78rp2EHnlrtXcMrCORLILv5NfEK7sH1

eBay probable has a few sets on sale.

TPMS sensors. You'll need a set of those. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-1180-B

If going to the HP rims and tires, the fronts will poke close to .5" / 13mm. HP Machs have the fender lips to help with that. If you'd like the wheel lip moldings, below is a reference.

https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-black-wheel-lip-molding-for-front-wheel-vmr3z16268a?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM=

Edit,

I also noticed the non-HP cars do not come with rear moldings, like the HPs do. Here's a PN# reference for that:

https://www.levittownfordparts.com/...ZEWRjy4rZikXREZhkH9pQLZG_l7-x10SSu6OQd6DOel-2

Setting all that aside, there are aftermarket options for other rims. If you decide to contemplate that, the most frustrating aspect will probably making a decision from so many choices.

 

[Xpdwheel]

Skye, I was just passing by and caught this investigative report you did in response to klumpikats question about a wheel and tire swap.
I think that is the best article I’ve ever read on the subject. Thanks for writing it. Seriously.

 

[WD Pro]

I obviously made a user error there are some photos I did not intent to put on there but don’t know how to delete them

I was scrolling down hoping for some titties ... lol

Joking aside, from a PC hit the edit button (bottom left of your post) and delete as you see fit :

From a mobile device (at least based on apple), hit the three dots in the same approximate place as the edit button as above comment, and then do the same

WD

 

[GP-2022 Mach 1]

Velgen makes some nice wheels 6 lbs each lighter than OEM. Since it is rotating mass it is essentially 200 lbs of static weight

 

[GP-2022 Mach 1]

I was scrolling down hoping for some titties ... lol

Joking aside, from a PC hit the edit button (bottom left of your post) and delete as you see fit :

From a mobile device (at least based on apple), hit the three dots in the same approximate place as the edit button as above comment, and then do the same

WD

Thanks

 

[Charlemagne]

Since it is rotating mass it is essentially 200 lbs of static weight

8x multiplier is incorrect, it's more like 3-4x for unsprung "feel/handling" but only 1.3-1.5x for acceleration (rotational impact 1.3-1.5x, unsprung-to-sprung 2-3x). 80 lbs of static weight would be more appropriate comparison.

 

[klumpikat]

Congrats on the new ride. Beautiful car.

If sticking with the factory rims and offsets, changing from non-HP to HP wheels and tires will not rub.

https://www.google.com/search?q=mus...HQ2MDrQQrQIoAnoECBsQAw&biw=1460&bih=739&dpr=2

Enclosed is some starting information, to let the gears grind while contemplating the change. Being wheels and tires, you should receive a good amount of responses to help in making any decisions.

The following links will allow you to judge differences in wheel and tire sizing.

https://tiresize.com/comparison/

https://akalloys.co.uk/pages/rim-wi...2gTSyOorHJNoYgFRCCNmsPgNC6JhMnh56RpXRR-uatwc9

A general rule of thumb is to stay within 3% of the existing circumference. You can stray from this figure, but the more you do, the greater risk there is of speedo, ABS or shift point differences. In going from a given diameter to something way shorter or taller, you're effectively changing the gear ratio of the diff.

I did some initial comparisons, first, doing a straight swap. In the direct swap scenario, the fronts are within 3% of factory. But the rears are close to 5% out. In the second comparison, I changed the tire profile to a 35 sidewall; this brought the circumference much closer. I did not study tire sizing on-line or differences if going a bit skinnier on the tire width. This exercise was just an initial "what-if".

From a quick read of one of the threads referenced above...One thing to keep in mind: going from a 40 profile sidewall to a 30 could produce a greater gap in the wheel arch. Going back to tire sizing, at least a few commented on using the HP rims, with a slightly skinnier, 35 profile tire; this reduced the wheel arch gap, increased tire selection choices and brought the circumference closer to the originals.

For those that did the straight swap, rims and tires, I didn't study the threads for their feedback, how things were (speedo, shifting, etc.) afterwards.

Wheel offsets, so you can see the differences.

Mach non-HP wheels are +40 front, +52.5 rear, 255/40/19, 275/40/19, 19x9.5, 19x10.

Mach HP wheels are +24 front, +52 rear, 305/30/19 and 315/30/19, 19x10.5, 19x11.

The non-HP to HP rim swap is straight take-off and put-on. No suspension changes will be needed. In changing the rim and tire size, it'd probably be a good idea to get an alignment, if anything to ensure the bits are dialed-in nicely for the new tires.

There are aftermarket "bird cage" wheels.

https://www.steeda.com/ford-perform...UYLw_UvFq5j1Nm_BkfsnNF2d-TyAqy4jKtgjQr3-Hjex-

Or, factory.

https://www.levittownfordparts.com/...JZyrzm22soToAv78rp2EHnlrtXcMrCORLILv5NfEK7sH1

eBay probable has a few sets on sale.

TPMS sensors. You'll need a set of those. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-1180-B

If going to the HP rims and tires, the fronts will poke close to .5" / 13mm. HP Machs have the fender lips to help with that. If you'd like the wheel lip moldings, below is a reference.

https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-black-wheel-lip-molding-for-front-wheel-vmr3z16268a?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM=

Edit,

I also noticed the non-HP cars do not come with rear moldings, like the HPs do. Here's a PN# reference for that:

https://www.levittownfordparts.com/...ZEWRjy4rZikXREZhkH9pQLZG_l7-x10SSu6OQd6DOel-2

Setting all that aside, there are aftermarket options for other rims. If you decide to contemplate that, the most frustrating aspect will probably making a decision from so many choices.

Well done! Thank you so much! I will save this for future reference!

Of course I am about to throw a wrench in the whole thing for aftermarket instead

Actually whittled down to what I want…
These Niche wheels, 19x10, square setup.
Question is which Michelin Pilot 4S size? Thinking 285/35, but can I go bigger? Don’t want anything sticking out too far or rubbing.
I am probably forgoing the fender flares.

(I have a 20x10 square setup on my ‘15 GT which I love. Michelins are 285/35 on it)

Thanks so much

 

[klumpikat]

Velgen makes some nice wheels 6 lbs each lighter than OEM. Since it is rotating mass it is essentially 200 lbs of static weight

Awesome ride, love the extra orange details

 

[NHMach1]

You can go bigger like a 295/35 but not ideal on a 10. 285 is ideal on a 10. Congrats on the car! She’s beautiful

 

[akasmitty]

Put your year... in here.
https://www.wheel-size.com/size/ford/mustang

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