It's not quite that simple without knowing gearbox ratios , you pretty well want to drop into the RPM just below where peak torque is on a gear change . In fact the ultimate way to capitalize is to adjust the gearbox ratios to both maximise peak horsepower pre shift into a gear where you are about to enter the fat part of the torque curve .Here’s one of my dyno graphs. I was wondering at what RPM I should shift ?
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Where's the redline on your tach?Here’s one of my dyno graphs. I was wondering at what RPM I should shift ?
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Since the OP has a 2015 car, and might still have the 2015 gear ratios, my guess is he doesn't have that much of an issue with dropping RPM.Since your an mt82 car I'd be shifting close to 8k to keep the rpms from dropping off in the next gear.
You probably can shift a bit more RPM but your torque is already falling off.This is an E85 tune on a 9.5 :1 compression gen 3 aluminator I have Boss valve springs and 3.55 gears. I thought it was unsafe to shift at 8k im gonna test out my times with a dragy. It’s still freezing out we have 2 more months of winter.
Ah I was right, well sir you probably can run 30 lbs no problem hope you have head studs!!!!The P1x is pretty much maxed out. I would need to upgrade the head unit to a D1X to get anymore power. I have another dyno it made 853 and 639
What size injectors are you running?Yeah it does have head studs. The boost is so high because of the lower compression. I think I’m fine at it’s current power level I may not upgrade to the D1X
the brand of head studs don't matter that much it's the way that they clamp down that makes the difference, hence making it a superior product vs head bolts.I have a fore innovation l2 dual fuel pump