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what new mods actually give real performance?

Idaho2018GTPremium

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How about a bit of weight loss? Not sure why everyone puts such a premium on big horsepower numbers and not less weight.

The 5.0 is plenty powerful. Lack of power isn't its issue. Being burdened with excessive weight is, especially over the front end. Unlike adding power, which only helps you in a straight line (and may even hinder you in the corners if you're adding a heavy supercharger on the nose), cutting weight will benefit straight line, cornering, and braking performance.

I'd recommend cheap weight loss measures like rear seat delete, miscellaneous cover deletes (engine cover, coil covers, battery cover, radiator cover) sound tube delete, windshield washer fluid reservoir and lines delete (only if your car is a non daily driver/not driven in winter car), hood heat/sound shield delete, active grille shutter delete, etc.

If you're willing to spend some money, you can lose even more weight through purchasing a carbon fiber hood, carbon fiber or aluminum drive shaft, lightweight forged wheels, lightweight brake kit, lightweight fixed driver and passenger seats, lightweight exhaust, etc.
Because weight savings must be substantial to make a noticeable impact on a DD car. For example:

Rear seat delete (~30 lbs) = equivalent to adding ~3.5 hp (can't feel that in the seat of the pants)
Engine cover delete = 0.4 hp (negligible)
Sound tube delete = 0.1 hp
Empty windshield washer reservoir = 1 hp (compared to a full one)
1/2 empty tank of fuel = 50 lbs savings vs. full tank = +6 hp

Those are all free. However, I need my rear seats (kids) and windshield washer fluid as it's my DD. The extra 0.5 hp from removing the engine cover and sound tube isn't worth it to me. I can make do filling up more frequently because my gas station is not out of the way at all, so I don't usually go past 9-10 gallons in the fuel tank.

Where you can see gains in acceleration and esp. in handling are in lighter wheels and brake rotors. Saving 10 lbs/wheel = 40 lbs rotating mass. For acceleration, that's like removing 120 lbs of sprung weight. Equal to about +14hp gain in acceleration.
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Hack

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I recently sold my 2015 GT for a 2019 GT PP1. Ive researched a bit about what people usually say to start with, CAI, Exhaust, LTH, but often tuners will say the factory CAI is really well made and adding a JLT or Roush only adds around 5hp. adding an Exhaust just makes the car louder with zero gains, and putting on LTH is excessively labor intensive but adds 20-30hp gains? I guess I would consider starting with an H pipe, a tune, and i don't know what else from there. If I do a tune and a Steeda Pro Flow, or a PMAS should I expect 20+ hp? Can a GT350 Throttle body even fit on the 2019 GT? would that, matched with a CAI and a tune get me some solid performance? anyone tried it? Im more than likely not going to do axlebacks as I dont want the car to be obnoxiously loud. Woulda 1 piece driveshaft make a big difference as well? less rotating mass = performance ya? Im really just looking for when I hit the gas, I want the car to pull like a bat out of hell. pfa
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In my opinion mods that increase power less than 10% aren't really worth it. I would keep the warranty intact and avoid power train mods. Do light weight wheels and sticky tires if you want noticeable improvements taking off from a stop. Or go to a power adder.

If you're set on doing things... yes, all of those will do something. You can add the GT350 intake and throttle body (Ford sells a kit including a tune). Even the Ford kit/tune does shorten your warranty. But if you really want to do mods the more you do the more noticeable the difference will be.
 

Less Weight

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Because weight savings must be substantial to make a noticeable impact on a DD car. For example:

Rear seat delete (~30 lbs) = equivalent to adding ~3.5 hp (can't feel that in the seat of the pants)
Engine cover delete = 0.4 hp (negligible)
Sound tube delete = 0.1 hp
Empty windshield washer reservoir = 1 hp (compared to a full one)
1/2 empty tank of fuel = 50 lbs savings vs. full tank = +6 hp

Those are all free. However, I need my rear seats (kids) and windshield washer fluid as it's my DD. The extra 0.5 hp from removing the engine cover and sound tube isn't worth it to me. I can make do filling up more frequently because my gas station is not out of the way at all, so I don't usually go past 9-10 gallons in the fuel tank.

Where you can see gains in acceleration and esp. in handling are in lighter wheels and brake rotors. Saving 10 lbs/wheel = 40 lbs rotating mass. For acceleration, that's like removing 120 lbs of sprung weight. Equal to about +14hp gain in acceleration.
The gains seen from cutting weight from a car are cumulative. Like you said, a piece here or a piece there don't really add up to much. However, if done right, the gains are quite tangible. I've done most of the things I've listed on my car because I want to extract EVERY last bit of performance that comes from shedding weight. That, and I don't have to concern myself with practical issues (like kids or windshield washer fluid) as my car is not my daily driver; it's just a summer toy.

Additionally, the performance gained from shedding weight doesn't put added stress, complexity, and risk of warranty voiding like power adders such as superchargers. Not to mention the added weight of a supercharger which will upset the balance of an already nose heavy car. If that wasn't enough, one doesn't have to worry about the additional cooling requirements of something like a supercharger.

If anything, shedding weight improves all of the above concerns since a lighter car does everything better from the standpoint of every performance metric.

The $8,000 to $10,000 (if not more depending if it'll be installed by someone else) on a supercharger is money better spent on cutting weight through a variety of means.

Simply put, a more powerful Mustang (through supercharging or turbos) is a one trick pony while a lighter Mustang elevates performance in all measurable ways.

And yeah, wheels make a HUGE difference:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...nd-first-impressions-of-their-product.139385/
 

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Kermitz

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Where you can see gains in acceleration and esp. in handling are in lighter wheels and brake rotors. Saving 10 lbs/wheel = 40 lbs rotating mass. For acceleration, that's like removing 120 lbs of sprung weight. Equal to about +14hp gain in acceleration.
I shed 41.5 LBS of rotational mass with lighter wheels and brake rotors. It made a huge difference in the way the car accelerated, decelerated and changed direction.
Shed another 16.5 LBS with an aluminum driveshaft at it also made a difference in acceleration, as the car revs faster.
 

Interceptor

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Exhaust system can be a weight saver
Lightweight bumper impact bars
Lightweight battery
Spoiler delete
Spare tire delete
 

Mazman

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I installed Borla ATAK on my 18
According to the Dragy it made no difference in 402m sprint at least. I did have a EU version with GPF filters so maybe the differences are more noticeable on a none EU version with regards to performance on sound it is definitely
 

zworld

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I'm not arguing either. Every car I put an h-pipe & straight through mufflers were a tenth, tenth & a half quicker.
When somebody posts numbers of a 20 hp gain with chambered mufflers, I just laugh ;)
wildhorse I have an MRBP catback race exhaust 3" stainless with h pipe and very small resonator on it, it's very aggressive. I also have the k&n drop in filter. How much hp might I have added?10 maybe 15 whats your guess? Baby steps. I appreciate your advise and knowledge.

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