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What lug nut torque have you settled on?

TrackMustang

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I think there’s a correct answer for OE and that’s all some people are taking into consideration. Fine.

Then there’s other hardware, and other members who need to search a little deeper. Asking the same questions of a more track-focused audience might yield a more balanced discussion.
That’s the entire point I was making until people came sideways with attitude. There’s more than one answer for more than one application. I posted an image from the wheel/lug nut manufacturer specifically for S550 mustangs that shows 105ftlbs and there’s still negative comments towards me like I’m an ass.

Guaranteed people wouldn’t talk like this to one another in person, but because it’s online they say whatever they want, be disrespectful, talk down to people… it’s ridiculous. I just want to share my passion for my car with likeminded individuals. Luckily there’s the “ignore” button.
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luc

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What is not controversy issue that you’re annoying
What is not controversy is that I don’t care about your opinion
What is not controversy is that this is exactly why forums that should be an interesting way to exchange ideas and information about cars people are passionate about, but instead they’re filled with assholes.

5 pages of comments on the subject in a couple days but you’re right, there’s only one correct answer 🤦🏼‍♂️
What really matter is the clamping force between the hub and the wheel
Ford has determined that this specific force is obtained by torquing 5 lug nuts to 150 each
Obviously to obtain the same clamping force, the torque value need to be adjusted for different coefficient of friction between the studs and nuts threads and the contact between the nuts and wheels
For example an oiled fasteners will require less torque to achieve the same clamping force
So basically, there is only (per Ford) one correct clamping force but, depending on fasteners and wheels used, different torque values to achieve it
Will not be the first time that a vendor is giving wrong technical information
 
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Egparson202

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What really matter is the clamping force between the hub and the wheel
Ford has determined that this specific force is obtained by torquing 5 lug nuts to 150 each
Obviously to obtain the same clamping force, the torque value need to be adjusted for different coefficient of friction between the studs and nuts threads and the contact between the nuts and wheels
For example an oiled fasteners will require less torque to achieve the same clamping force
So basically, there is only (per Ford) one correct clamping force but, depending on fasteners and wheels used, different torque values to achieve it
Will not be the first time that a vendor is giving wrong technical information

Thanks. Would another example be when the studs and lug nuts are constructed using upgraded materials and manufacturing techniques?

I totally agree that vendors sometimes provide erroneous info. I think in this case Ford is providing specs for their studs. Super important if you’re using their studs. Not so much if you’ve upgraded.
 

MAGS1

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Thanks. Would another example be when the studs and lug nuts are constructed using upgraded materials and manufacturing techniques?

I totally agree that vendors sometimes provide erroneous info. I think in this case Ford is providing specs for their studs. Super important if you’re using their studs. Not so much if you’ve upgraded.
That’s correct, Ford’s torque specs are for their studs. If you change them out to ARP or some other aftermarket studs, those torque values could be different. I would rely on the values given by the manufacturer of the studs. I have the stock studs, so I use 150 as stated by Ford.
 

kz

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Thanks. Would another example be when the studs and lug nuts are constructed using upgraded materials and manufacturing techniques?
Only if modulus of elasticity for the studs would be substantially different - as luc - like any bolted joint - it's all about clamp (that needs to be sufficient to hold things together under all conditions - generally speaking) - torque is a mean to achieve this clamp (since clamp can't be easily measured without strain gages). I'd risk a guess that between ARP and stock studs, there won't be much clamp difference for the same torque. ARP likely have higher tensile strength and better fatigue properties.

Anyway - lots of overthinking going on in this thread....
 

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Egparson202

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Only if modulus of elasticity for the studs would be substantially different - as luc - like any bolted joint - it's all about clamp (that needs to be sufficient to hold things together under all conditions - generally speaking) - torque is a mean to achieve this clamp (since clamp can't be easily measured without strain gages). I'd risk a guess that between ARP and stock studs, there won't be much clamp difference for the same torque. ARP likely have higher tensile strength and better fatigue properties.

Anyway - lots of overthinking going on in this thread....

I hear ya. Especially the overthinking part. As for the hypothetical upgraded studs I referenced, they’re not so hypothetical. I think they may go a bit farther than the ARP’s.

Same as the IMSA teams use: https://www.opmustang.com/store/p315/14mmHighStrengthRacingLugNuts.html#/
 

sigintel

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I posted an image from the wheel/lug nut manufacturer specifically for S550 mustangs that shows 105ftlbs and there’s still negative comments towards me like I’m an ass.
You are NOT an ass. Ignore people

The ass is the supplier making lug nuts out of junk metal that can only handle 105ftlb of torque instead of 150ftlb on an M14x1.5 thread.

Those lug nuts are junk if they can NOT be torqued to 150ftlb. I would not trust cheap lug nuts. Internet will sell you anything.

If you drive Mustang to limit, cheap M14x1.5 lug nuts at 105ftlb you will 100% guarantee break a wheel stud over time as the assembly will be slipping. Go check all your break loose torques and see what they are. Are they all same?
If you retorque, how many degrees do the nuts move?
Anything other than 0 is bad.

Go remove a rear wheel and post up pictures.
The witness marks on a good assembly are clean. If things are sliding, the witness marks will show. Go pull a wheel and look.

$2 a nut with guaranteed by Ford to work on all their studs including ARP kit.
https://shop.watsonracing.com/S550-MUSTANG-LUG-NUT-KIT-OPENBACK-M-1012-N-2015-17-p/wr-1012-n.htm
 

Genxer

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The issue I saw when shopping around for aftermarket lug nuts was the seats are more narrow on many of them. I had bought a cheapie set, and when I opened the box to look at them, noped out. I found Gorillas that have the same taper and seat area as OEM which is important, especially when you are cranking 150 ft. lbs. A narrower seat area would concern me, not just for holding strength but for running the chance of messing up wheel seats.
 

Paul McWhiskey

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You are NOT an ass. Ignore people

The ass is the supplier making lug nuts out of junk metal that can only handle 105ftlb of torque instead of 150ftlb on an M14x1.5 thread.

Those lug nuts are junk if they can NOT be torqued to 150ftlb. I would not trust cheap lug nuts. Internet will sell you anything.

If you drive Mustang to limit, cheap M14x1.5 lug nuts at 105ftlb you will 100% guarantee break a wheel stud over time as the assembly will be slipping. Go check all your break loose torques and see what they are. Are they all same?
If you retorque, how many degrees do the nuts move?
Anything other than 0 is bad.

Go remove a rear wheel and post up pictures.
The witness marks on a good assembly are clean. If things are sliding, the witness marks will show. Go pull a wheel and look.

$2 a nut with guaranteed by Ford to work on all their studs including ARP kit.
https://shop.watsonracing.com/S550-MUSTANG-LUG-NUT-KIT-OPENBACK-M-1012-N-2015-17-p/wr-1012-n.htm
Was that a typo? I just clicked the link and the Lugnuts are listed at $10.50/ea.?
 

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Paul McWhiskey

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Define “under torqued”. That could mean 60lb-ft, 75lb-ft, 100lb-ft, 130lb-ft.

Define “fail”.

I’ve seen more failures of lug nut/studs in my 35 years from over tightening (or even torquing to “spec”) than under torquing. Obviously I don’t mean just forgetting to tighten the lug nuts. That’s going to happen eventually to people who aren’t thorough anyway.
Completely agree... my lugs never see 150 ft lbs... never. That number is just ridiculous. I am 100-110.
 

galaxy

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That’s correct, Ford’s torque specs are for their studs. If you change them out to ARP or some other aftermarket studs, those torque values could be different. I would rely on the values given by the manufacturer of the studs. I have the stock studs, so I use 150 as stated by Ford.

ARP will not give you a torque recommendation on their studs. I agree that if 150 is safe for stock studs, it’s gotta be pretty conservative for those.

I make an educated adjustment on my ARPs (and the stock ones)…

I didn’t see anyone mention it, but the factory torque spec is actually 150 +-15. So, as a general rule, wet threads accounts for around 10%. I use ARP lube as antisieze, so I set my torque wrench for 135. End result should be a good ballpark 150.

My measley $0.02, but not using 150 is right up there with 3,000 mile oil changes. You’re doing it solely because you have an uninformed mental block that forces you to not use it.
 
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Dana Pants

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Just use can of brake cleaner briefly of both and wipe dry w paper towel or clean rag. wrench.
This is really MVP advice. I cleaned everything with carb cleaner today including inside the Lugnuts and it has totally changed how the lug nuts feel when being torqued. And clearly for the better.
 

sigintel

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Completely agree... my lugs never see 150 ft lbs... never. That number is just ridiculous. I am 100-110.
Real men do it finger tight only.
100 is way too high.
like 80 prolly risky.
im going back to 3 nuts after trying just 2 cause ya know, wanna save those sweet virgin threads for next owner in like 30 years when Im dead or tired of staring at me garage queen that signifies all my boyhood dreams.
I throw lug nuts away and use new ones everytime I change oil or my depends.
Also, by using 12 lug nuts entire car, its lighter and faster!
(Best Jim Cramer voice:
Ford engineers know NOTHING!)
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