Well, Whiple stage 2 installed....

[Roh92cp]

Your in good hands with Ken then, but I would agree at this point sounds like you have an air leak. Check the following for leaks that could cause unmetered air. You can check all this yourself with little to no tools needed.

1. Throttle body oval O ring should be in place in the groove, but while you have it off check the bypass operation by pushing it open and letting it close from the inside. You will see the bypass opening and blade once the throttle body is off.

2. Make sure all the silicone couplers are sealed, don't over tighten the clamps as they can crush the plastic elbow. You should be able to see when they squish around and seal on the elbow.

3. Make sure the inlet for the DS valve cover hose is not leaking. You will see this on the bottom of the plastic inlet elbow, it has a push in fitting into a rubber grommet if distorted or pushed out of place by improper placement like to short of a hose it can leak air.

4. Make sure the MAF is oriented properly, meaning it's pointing the right direction. The red locking tab should be facing down. Also make sure it's not leaking, if it's over tightened it can crush or crack and cause air leakage.

5. Check and make sure pass side valve cover to SC vac port is not leaking. If you have a oil catch can make sure it's also not leaking air.

6. Check the drivers side vac ports are connected properly and not leaking. Top one should be blocked and the bottom 2 should be connected one to the brake booster and other to the EVAP soleniod. Refer to picture above step 138.

7. Check to make sure the bypass hose is connected to the bypass (you can see this with throttle body off) you should check to see the hose connected to the nipple on the black bypass diaphragm, and has a clamp or zip tie on it. Make sure the other end of the hose is connected to the manifold port and not leaking.

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[desant89]

Thanks so much. I will get on this shortly. I told Ken to hold up on any tune revisions at this point as I am sure something else is going on here.

 

[zaquhree]

Does sound vacuum related, you may be able to have him help narrow it down by looking at fuel trims under different conditions

 

[Roh92cp]

Thanks so much. I will get on this shortly. I told Ken to hold up on any tune revisions at this point as I am sure something else is going on here.

Does sound vacuum related, you may be able to have him help narrow it down by looking at fuel trims under different conditions

Yup like he said, if you can data log fuel trims would show skewed reading if you had an air leak, but likely you would have cel and code on this.

Also a smoke test if you could have your shop do one would rule out the vac leak in the hard to check area like the supercharger and intake to head ports.

 

[desant89]

Ok. Again, I am no mechanic, but extremely mechanical. I took some shots. Wanted ot know of anything else I should do before putting it back together. I checked all of the above. Everything seemed correct. Not sure what that goldish spray crap is. Almost like they used a sealant on the TB it is very tacky and thin. You can see it got on the hoses below a little. Maybe one of you know better.

 

[desant89]

Not sure why orientation of pics got lost in translation here, but the MAF is in the correct orientation.

 

[desant89]

Yup like he said, if you can data log fuel trims would show skewed reading if you had an air leak, but likely you would have cel and code on this.

Also a smoke test if you could have your shop do one would rule out the vac leak in the hard to check area like the supercharger and intake to head ports.

Anything else I can do? Any simple way to check for leaks? At least in certain place....I like the sound of that smoke test. Is that something I can do here? Just hate to go there, and have to drop off the car and wait again so anything I can do, I want to try first.

 

[Reds197]

Clean the copper gasket shit off. No one puts a gasket coating where there is a o-ring. The shop is not as competent as you may think. If you are getting high idle it is I am almost 100% you have a vacuum leak. It's most likely the front of the blower forward to cause a high idle.

 

[Roh92cp]

I can't believe they hoped anti seize copper all over that, really sloppy work.

 

[desant89]

Damn, well I may go back to them and tell them to clean that crap off. I ran the car all around that since reassembling. I dont think the leak is from there though.

 

[stealthfrc]

one way to find an air leak is while the car is running to spray something like carb cleaner around the area you think may be leaking... if the cars idle changes after you spray it then you found the spot its leaking from. just be careful what you get the cleaner onto.
deffinitly no need for gasket maker when there is o rings... id try spraying around the area the blower bolts to the intercooler with some cleaner and see if the idle changes.... after seeing that they used gasket maker on the TB i wonder what they did under the blower...
another place is where the intercooler bolts to the heads...
also check:
where the intercooler bolts to the heads
if the knock sensors and wiring were not placed correctly then the intercooler will not bolt all the way down and the orings will not seal correctly.

 

[Jmeo]

Wow

 

[lxh89]

These guys probably put that copper gasket between lower manifold and heads. If they did that and didn't use the rubber o-rings, it will definitely leak vacuum and boost.

Tony

 

[desant89]

Just dropped it off to mechanic for smoke test. I mentioned the copper crap too.

 

[desant89]

No copper anywhere else. He said he didn't want to use silicon on that o ring. It wouldn't stay in place so he used that..... I know, bad excuse. He guaranteed it is nowhere else though. I guess this smoke test will tell the tale.... I will post later when that is done. Thanks again everyone for all of your help so far. I'm definitely about to lose it.

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