Vortech install done, flashing CEL

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I changed the plugs to denso gapped to .026 and still the same.

Could it be the injectors?

 

kenand1988

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I changed the plugs to denso gapped to .026 and still the same.

Could it be the injectors?
If it was just 1 or 2 cylinders you could swap injectors or coil packs
 
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Livernois looked over my logs and said everything looks good other then some knock happening (I had 93 in the tank and some octane booster)

. They asked about traction control..... Could it be that kicking in and causing the misfire? It would help explain why it happens in low gears and randomly.... Anyone else deal with that happening at all?

Update: got the CEL with everything turned off. At this point I have no clue what the cause could be.
 
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They had me do an engineering log and said I'm getting pretty bad knock and losing fuel pressure up top.

I pulled the rear seat and side panel, BAP wiring is all good and fuse still in tact. Is there a way to test this thing?

Going to pull the injectors this weekend and take a look at them too.

Anyone run into something similar?Vortech said the fuel injectors are 47lb. The BAP it's their max flow FPB.
 

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Something is up with fuel delivery. Honestly you can usually get away without a bap below 650 whp on a gen 3. For the bap the only way I know of testing it is check your fuel pressure at idle. For me when I had the bap hooked up my pressure was almost 80psi and when I removed it it was around 65. That won't tell you if it's working correctly up top but it will tell you if its doing anything at all. What pump is it? I would really like to see the log to answer more questions I have about your dilemma. The pump is more likely to be bad than the bap. Baps almost never fail. Check the bap ground and make sure it is making 100% contact with bare metal.
 


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Something is up with fuel delivery. Honestly you can usually get away without a bap below 650 whp on a gen 3. For the bap the only way I know of testing it is check your fuel pressure at idle. For me when I had the bap hooked up my pressure was almost 80psi and when I removed it it was around 65. That won't tell you if it's working correctly up top but it will tell you if its doing anything at all. What pump is it? I would really like to see the log to answer more questions I have about your dilemma. The pump is more likely to be bad than the bap. Baps almost never fail. Check the bap ground and make sure it is making 100% contact with bare metal.
It's the factory pump. Unfortunately I have no access to the log they had me do where they saw the pressure issue. I have no visibility of that engineering file. Just my normal log files which they said looked fine.
 

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It's the factory pump. Unfortunately I have no access to the log they had me do where they saw the pressure issue. I have no visibility of that engineering file. Just my normal log files which they said looked fine.
Then I would assume you didnt even touch the fuel pump, fuel lines, and rails so that rules out pretty much everything but the bap. Injectors and sparkplugs wont cause a pressure drop unless the injectors were stuck open but the car would probably not even run. The knock is hard to diagnose because we don't have a log to go off of and know when it is happening. Could be legitimate knock or it could be false knock. You would have to look all around the engine to see if anything is hitting the chassis.
 
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Then I would assume you didnt even touch the fuel pump, fuel lines, and rails so that rules out pretty much everything but the bap. Injectors and sparkplugs wont cause a pressure drop unless the injectors were stuck open but the car would probably not even run. The knock is hard to diagnose because we don't have a log to go off of and know when it is happening. Could be legitimate knock or it could be false knock. You would have to look all around the engine to see if anything is hitting the chassis.
Only fuel changes were the fuel injectors and BAP. I have the ground wire attached to the same spot as a factory ground as per the instructions. I took it off and re tightened it down.

My Livernois tuner is not registering any fuel pressure reading on my visible logs for some reason.
20220729_191953.jpg
 

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Only fuel changes were the fuel injectors and BAP. I have the ground wire attached to the same spot as a factory ground as per the instructions. I took it off and re tightened it down.

My Livernois tuner is not registering any fuel pressure reading on my visible logs for some reason.
20220729_191953.jpg
Visually that all looks good. Thats the same BAP I used before going dual pump and it worked really well.
 
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I started searching and it seems the vortech BAP being bad has happened to other people.

Is there a pump I could install instead or does it require a full system upgrade to return style?
 

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I started searching and it seems the vortech BAP being bad has happened to other people.

Is there a pump I could install instead or does it require a full system upgrade to return style?
You could install a dw400
 

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Heard slot of people having problems with this pump rn. Lund even said stay away from it.
I ran it for close to 10 months above 850whp and a bap. Your other alternative would be a hellcat walbro 525 pump but you lose the venturi line and will run out of gas at 1/4 tank
 
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Suggestion from livernois about my BAP:

"so the install looks ok, only thing I question is there are two grounds going to the same spot. typically I wouldn't do that. It's also possible the unit itself is bad.

I would say, put pressure on the sensor with it running and measure for voltage increase before the module. I have seen a few drop voltages when they are turned on. "

I honestly have no idea what/how to do what they are saying. I hooked up my launch code reader and it shows psi at the rail.... If I unplug the BAP...I see some higher pressure from idle to 3500 rpm (just sitting in the driveway). Does that help indicate anything ( no BAP 1157 psi vs with BAP 975 psi peak)
 

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Suggestion from livernois about my BAP:

"so the install looks ok, only thing I question is there are two grounds going to the same spot. typically I wouldn't do that. It's also possible the unit itself is bad.

I would say, put pressure on the sensor with it running and measure for voltage increase before the module. I have seen a few drop voltages when they are turned on. "

I honestly have no idea what/how to do what they are saying. I hooked up my launch code reader and it shows psi at the rail.... If I unplug the BAP...I see some higher pressure from idle to 3500 rpm (just sitting in the driveway). Does that help indicate anything ( no BAP 1157 psi vs with BAP 975 psi peak)
That has to be direct injection pressure. Rail pressure for port injection shouldn't exceed 80psi
 

 
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