Upgrade Non PP?

[Bluemustang]

I have no problem with my 3.15 gears in my auto.

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[DeltaMobile]

Even thought I typically mod parts off my car, I went with PP because I plan to keep it stock for awhile as I just jumped out of a heavily modified WRX and was tired of dealing the the issues and paranoia of aftermarket parts so PP made sense to me. It gives me the ability to have a car that feels a bit better handling over non PP with some other decent upgrades. I also paid under 3500k on the MRSP which made it seem worth it to me. Will I eventually lower it, probably so there goes the need for the PP springs. Aside from that I don't see myself changing anything else for quite some time. So I guess in the end it will just really depend on how aggressively you mod your cars. The PP includes a lot more stuff other than springs and wheels which is usually what people seem to bring up the most.

-Performance Package
• Strut-tower Brace
• Larger Radiator
• Unique Chassis Tuning
• Upsized Rear Sway Bar
• Heavy-Duty Front Springs
• K-Brace
• Brembo™ 6-Piston Front Brake Calipers with Larger Rotors
• 19 X 9-inch (F) 19” X9.5” (R)Ebony Black-Painted Aluminum Wheels (Summer Tires Only)
• Unique Stability Control, EPAS & ABS Tuning
• 3.73 TORSEN® Rear Axle
• Gauge Pack (Oil Pressure and Vacuum)
• Spoiler Delete

I was asked why I didn't go NON PP but premium which makes a little more sense because a lot of the premium features you get can not be added, or near OEM later. However, I thought I wanted all the limited gadgets and features on my last purchase and in the end realize I could really live without them and definitely for a 4-5k increase in price. Plus being that this car is already a little heavy I wanted to try and have the lightest curb weight as possible.

What did we get specifically with "Unique Chassis Tuning" and "Unique Stability Control, EPAS & ABS Tuning"?

Does anybody know?

 

[wireeater]

What did we get specifically with "Unique Chassis Tuning" and "Unique Stability Control, EPAS & ABS Tuning"?

Does anybody know?

They probably added an extra 2ft/lb of torque on a few bolts.

 

[Shouldhavegotthegt]

I also came from a 13 V6. Picked up a 16 base GT. Mostly because of price but also I'll do my own mods. If you plan on keeping it mostly stock get the PP. it looks mean and performs well. If you plan on doing mods especially aftermarket wheels just get a base or premium.



13 V6: SR lowering springs, Borla ATAKs, Roush grilles, etc

 

[ravengenesis]

No premium and no PP for me, it wasn't about the price but more about waste.

My GT is stock for the next few years till warranty comes off, I'm not tracking or in need of higher power. Visual mods will be my biggest interest during this time. However, I do see a host of upgrades in the future towards everything PP has to offer. But for the savings I have from not having PP, I can spend that towards visuals and other mods I find interest in.

 

[Bluemustang]

No premium and no PP for me, it wasn't about the price but more about waste.

My GT is stock for the next few years till warranty comes off, I'm not tracking or in need of higher power. Visual mods will be my biggest interest during this time. However, I do see a host of upgrades in the future towards everything PP has to offer. But for the savings I have from not having PP, I can spend that towards visuals and other mods I find interest in.

Nice looking ride! I dig the white big time

 

[BmacIL]

What did we get specifically with "Unique Chassis Tuning" and "Unique Stability Control, EPAS & ABS Tuning"?

Does anybody know?

Different tuning for the front and rear dampers, and rear dampers are monotube.


Also but not listed:
Front sway bar has "sticky" bushings and much better mounting brackets
Front lower control arm bearing is better on PP
Rear toe link bearing is better on PP
Upper strut mounts are more rigid on PP
Lower K-brace

 

[SpeedLu]

Did I say gears make you faster? No? I'm pretty sure common sense would tell someone gears don't make you faster. What they do is keep the car in the power band more, which helps immensely with the automatic.

There is no reason to go out of your way to either option out of find an auto with 3.55s. There has been extensive research done on the subject of gear ratios and "keeping the car in the power band more" is all butt dyno imagination. You may think you're going faster with 3.55s but you're not. In reality 3.55s, 3.73s, and 4.15s are all slower gearing options with poorer gas mileage. I can roast the tires all day with 3.15s but get almost 26-27mpg going 80mph on the interstate. If you believe your butt more than actual numbers then by all means grab the 3.55s. Just trying to help man, no one needs more than 3.15 in an auto.

 

[SpeedLu]

I also came from a 13 V6. Picked up a 16 base GT. Mostly because of price but also I'll do my own mods. If you plan on keeping it mostly stock get the PP. it looks mean and performs well. If you plan on doing mods especially aftermarket wheels just get a base or premium.



13 V6: SR lowering springs, Borla ATAKs, Roush grilles, etc

That is one beautiful Coyote! X2!

 

[Bluemustang]

Thank you [MENTION=21623]SpeedLu[/MENTION]

Btw, great ride you got there. Friggin sweet. How you like those GT350 stripes? Are they tough to put on?

 

[JasonBecker]

Before I bought my GT last year I had a similar dilemma. In the end I decided to get the non-PP version because when I really thought about how I'd actually be using the car I realized I didn't need it, and if I want to change in the future I can choose anything at all, as opposed to purchased the PP and then wanting to mod above it later. So far all I've done to the car was to swap out the interior, backup, and trunk lights with LED's, add the Ford Racing strut tower brace and cowl extender, and add the Raxiom switchback conversion kit.

I plan to do more eventually, but nothing to the suspension for quite a while. I agree with what the other folks have said about it, but it doesn't bother me on a day to day basis like it does some of the other guys (and gals) on here.

My advice would be to genuinely think about how you'll use the car and decide whether or not the PP would really impact your enjoyment of driving it.

 

[SpeedLu]

Thank you [MENTION=21623]SpeedLu[/MENTION]

Btw, great ride you got there. Friggin sweet. How you like those GT350 stripes? Are they tough to put on?

Thanks man. I actually had them worked into the purchase because I convinced my salesman I hated Silver, and got my wife to say "oh if only it had stripes honey!" Tagteamed him! They gave me the stripes no charge and had a special decal shop put them on.

Just ordered a set of gloss black MMR M350s from Need4SpeedMotors here on the forum, can't wait to put the new shoes on her! I'll need to update my mods and avatar. What wheels are those? They almost look like the 6GR's. Very smooth.

 

[ForTehNguyen]

What did we get specifically with "Unique Chassis Tuning" and "Unique Stability Control, EPAS & ABS Tuning"?

Does anybody know?

the sway bar bracket mounts and bushings are different than non PP cars, more solid. PP has different rear toe links. PP shocks are a decent upgrade over base GT shocks.

 

[Bluemustang]

Also consider that MANY PP owners have decided to upgrade their suspension. So what does that tell you? No offense intended, the PP is great and is better than the non-PP stock for stock. I am just saying many people have chosen to upgrade it in many ways as you'll see if you look around the forum posts.

Much of the problem with all the S550s is all the deflection. It's not that the PP doesn't have a good chassis or that the upgrades you get with it are not good. They ARE. And definitely worth it to those who want it.

But the PP still does not address the factory rubber bushings and stuff like that and there's deflection all over the place on the S550s. The deflection leads to wheel hop and unpredictable handing in certain situations.

I have seen complaints from some owners about the PP springs not being as good as aftermarket.

You can get a base GT and upgrade it to your hearts content and put on only what you want. I wish Ford had taken some extra steps to make these cars better but, they have their reasons such as NVH levels and comfortability factors for many different drivers living in many different areas. They have to appeal to the masses. The factory rubber bushings absorb bumps and NVH so that's why it is the way it is. It's a GREAT car, especially the PP. The tires on the PP are definitely something I would have wanted.

The fact that we can get a car like this for $30-35 grand is unreal. Put a little more into it and you'll have something special I think.

But this is all opinions and I am by no means an expert. I just try to learn from what I read. To each his own. There is no wrong answer IMO.

Had I been able to do a PP in auto, I probably would've gotten it. But I would bet that I would end up upgrading stuff anyways and would have spent more money.

 

[Starman]

this is pretty easy, if you want a good performance pack right from the start and dont plan to modify much, go PP. If you plan to heavily modify then just go with a non-PP, you'll end up just replacing a lot of the parts. The PP gears will have to go if you do heavy engine mods.

We have some PP elitists here who stick to their guns period to try to maintain their supposed elitism, but it not reality in some cases like wanting to heavily modify your car.

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