upgrade just speakers

[Ruby305GT]

Id like to replace the rears and then add a sub, the mids and highs are lacking, but having the 9 speaker just leaves much more lacking in the bass area. What do you guys recommend for the rears? Also, I would like to do the AMP work and all, but Id rather just drop it off at a shop and have them go at it, make it sound good. Any suggestions for South FL?

Sponsored

 

[sandpiper]

I got the JBL GTO 629 for the rear deck. I just cant get time to put them in.

 

[ktp1598]

I ordered the JBL GTO638s. I'll report on those once they're in.

 

[Gmacguyver]

Finally worked on a 2015 Ecoboost pp with a shaker pro system today and I can kinda see what people are complaining about. The rear speakers severly suck and the system has no balls at all. As soon as you hit the freeway with your windows down, you literally have to crank the system almost full blast which sounds horribly at loud volumes. I added two 10 JL subs and turned the bass down on the speakers to let the subs do the work and it sounded clean, but still not as loud as I expected it to be. For the price you pay for the factory upgraded audio system, it is a let down. The old shaker systems were better because of the 8in woofers in the door. I definently recommend changing the speakers out to add clarity, then add an aftermarket subwoofer to increase to low end bass, but turn down the bass on the door speakers to keep clarity which will allow the system to play at louder volumes. If you decide to add a 4ch amp to the speakers and you have a base system, your ok. But if you have a shaker or shaker pro, you'll need a summing interface or dsp to add a 4ch amp properly.

BTW if your installing an amp and you have the tools, there are two 10mm bolts for the pos/neg terminals, one 8mm bolt clamping the battery down, and three 8mm bolts holding the battery case in place. From there just use a step/unibit bit to drill through the fire wall directly behind the battery and you'll end up behind the glove box. You can run several powers for whatever you want and keep it all enclosed within the battery casing.

Sorry I forgot to take pics

 

[RevvdMedia]

Finally worked on a 2015 Ecoboost pp with a shaker pro system today and I can kinda see what people are complaining about. The rear speakers severly suck and the system has no balls at all. As soon as you hit the freeway with your windows down, you literally have to crank the system almost full blast which sounds horribly at loud volumes. I added two 10 JL subs and turned the bass down on the speakers to let the subs do the work and it sounded clean, but still not as loud as I expected it to be. For the price you pay for the factory upgraded audio system, it is a let down. The old shaker systems were better because of the 8in woofers in the door. I definently recommend changing the speakers out to add clarity, then add an aftermarket subwoofer to increase to low end bass, but turn down the bass on the door speakers to keep clarity which will allow the system to play at louder volumes. If you decide to add a 4ch amp to the speakers and you have a base system, your ok. But if you have a shaker or shaker pro, you'll need a summing interface or dsp to add a 4ch amp properly.

BTW if your installing an amp and you have the tools, there are two 10mm bolts for the pos/neg terminals, one 8mm bolt clamping the battery down, and three 8mm bolts holding the battery case in place. From there just use a step/unibit bit to drill through the fire wall directly behind the battery and you'll end up behind the glove box. You can run several powers for whatever you want and keep it all enclosed within the battery casing.

Sorry I forgot to take pics

I don't believe you actually need a summing device for Shaker / Shaker Pro. The signals going into the amp are RCA line level - FL, FR, RL, RR, full range. Summing would pose no benefit. You can either splice RCA connectors to the wires themselves, or build connectors as shown in other threads.

 

[Gmacguyver]

I've only tagged signal after the factory amp so far at the sub. The only way you won't need a summing interface is if you can get a strong enough full range signal before factory amp or if the front door signals aren't a 3way setup after the amp. If the signal before the amp is good or the signal after the amp is full range for the front doors then yeah you won't need a summing interface. I should have clarified that first. But signal going into the amp is just line level speaker wire not RCA, I just don't know if is a low or high level signal.

 

[ktp1598]

Ok so I received my JBL's today and I'm happy to report, they sound great! Best part is you don't have to butcher your stock speakers for a mount. The JBL's come with a mount that fits our cars. (at least the rear deck)You can see in some of the pics the three tabs on the bracket to mount the speakers to the car. Very happy with them. I'll go with JBL's for the fronts once I get a bit of direction on which ones to buy. These were less than $70 for the pair.

 

[Bryman]

Very nice, thanks for the info! Did you have to adjust the fade or balance at all with the stock speakers?

 

[ktp1598]

I didn't. They added a nice amount of much needed treble and mids. You WILL notice.

 

[Bryman]

I didn't. They added a nice amount of much needed treble and mids. You WILL notice.

Any additional bass? That's my major complaint with the 9 speaker system.

 

[pinero61]

Helps a bit, but not very much.

 

[ktp1598]

Little, if any additional bass. I have a 10" Blaupunkt "Blue Magic" amplified subwoofer coming in the mail today for that.

 

[Rypkr937]

Ok so I received my JBL's today and I'm happy to report, they sound great! Best part is you don't have to butcher your stock speakers for a mount. The JBL's come with a mount that fits our cars. (at least the rear deck)You can see in some of the pics the three tabs on the bracket to mount the speakers to the car. Very happy with them. I'll go with JBL's for the fronts once I get a bit of direction on which ones to buy. These were less than $70 for the pair.

How involved was the install?

 

[ktp1598]

Scariest part was bending the rear plastic panels out of the way to remove the package tray. The tray is only held in by 2 push pins, one on either side in the front. I soldered 2 small wires to each speaker and used bullet connectors to connect to the factory harness. The factory plugs have to be cut off. Install is easy enough. Be very careful removing and reinstalling the rear-most screws as they're almost up against the glass. Just take your time.

 

[ktp1598]

Also, since I have the 9 speaker system, which is missing only the sub, are the wires for the sub in the trunk somewhere? Could I use the power wires if they are?

Sponsored