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Under-hood insulation question?

RandomTask

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There is a SIGNIFICANT increase in front end down-force w/the hood vents.

There is NO down-force w/hood vents, there is merely a reduction in lift. And, yes, there IS a difference.

However, I also have a splitter that I modified & 305’s in the front 🤣

NOW you have front end down-force!!!
Don’t open that can of worms again. People will argue it’s adding downforce….
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RandomTask

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This all appears fine. However, I cut the factory blanket and reinstalled it. It’s the edges around where it is cut out that I am asking what others are doing to improve the appearance and stop water intrusion into the blanket.
I used 3M double sided rubber edging around the cuts on the hood. Super clean looking. Also sprayed the inside of the hood where it was cut to hide the un painted finish.
 

RandomTask

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I used 3M double sided rubber edging around the cuts on the hood. Super clean looking. Also sprayed the inside of the hood where it was cut to hide the un painted finish.
Here’s some images. Once all the messy work was done I added an oem stripe, PPF and ceramic back over the top, then black alu rivets to finish the job. Plenty of track events on this setup, with high temps on track in the Texas heat and no issues.

I followed the directions to the letter from the guys at Race Louvers to make sure the vents were cut and placed in the ideal spot for correct airflow.

I’ve got a different setup for the airbox (pic attached). I modified a CF GT350 box cover. But I’ll be probably be removing that going forward because there is plenty of exhaust from the race louver vent directly above the box for any heat, and the fog light cover is removed. We did some testing with both box open vs closed and fog light in/out, and even tried using a baffle for the air flow which was pointless given the massive holes the grill has anyway.

No dyno data, but IAT were lower with this improved air flow. I don’t have figures on that, because I’m lazy and didn’t write anything down.

IMG_1796.jpeg


IMG_1797.jpeg


IMG_1799.jpeg


IMG_1798.jpeg
 

Ron

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Don’t open that can of worms again. People will argue it’s adding downforce ….

LOL ... Fair enough cuz I didn't even wanna get into spring rates, tire pressures & stabilizer bar settings when you DO increase downforce.
:facepalm:
 

NightmareMoon

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Here’s some images. Once all the messy work was done I added an oem stripe, PPF and ceramic back over the top, then black alu rivets to finish the job. Plenty of track events on this setup, with high temps on track in the Texas heat and no issues.

I followed the directions to the letter from the guys at Race Louvers to make sure the vents were cut and placed in the ideal spot for correct airflow.

I’ve got a different setup for the airbox (pic attached). I modified a CF GT350 box cover. But I’ll be probably be removing that going forward because there is plenty of exhaust from the race louver vent directly above the box for any heat, and the fog light cover is removed. We did some testing with both box open vs closed and fog light in/out, and even tried using a baffle for the air flow which was pointless given the massive holes the grill has anyway.

No dyno data, but IAT were lower with this improved air flow. I don’t have figures on that, because I’m lazy and didn’t write anything down.

IMG_1796.webp


IMG_1797.webp


IMG_1799.webp


IMG_1798.jpeg
Stationary on a dyno removing the cover will help flow, but on the road it may not (more ram air into the grill to feed the airbox).

and also your MAF sensor may or may not work well with open hood and open airbox (resulting in less than smooth engine fueling). I know that was a big concern for my tuner and the main reason I went to a closed box for my hood vented car.
 

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RandomTask

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Stationary on a dyno removing the cover will help flow, but on the road it may not (more ram air into the grill to feed the airbox).

and also your MAF sensor may or may not work well with open hood and open airbox (resulting in less than smooth engine fueling). I know that was a big concern for my tuner and the main reason I went to a closed box for my hood vented car.
Yeah haven’t ran it open full day yet. We will see.
 

Paul McWhiskey

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Here’s some images. Once all the messy work was done I added an oem stripe, PPF and ceramic back over the top, then black alu rivets to finish the job. Plenty of track events on this setup, with high temps on track in the Texas heat and no issues.

I followed the directions to the letter from the guys at Race Louvers to make sure the vents were cut and placed in the ideal spot for correct airflow.

I’ve got a different setup for the airbox (pic attached). I modified a CF GT350 box cover. But I’ll be probably be removing that going forward because there is plenty of exhaust from the race louver vent directly above the box for any heat, and the fog light cover is removed. We did some testing with both box open vs closed and fog light in/out, and even tried using a baffle for the air flow which was pointless given the massive holes the grill has anyway.

No dyno data, but IAT were lower with this improved air flow. I don’t have figures on that, because I’m lazy and didn’t write anything down.

IMG_1796.jpeg


IMG_1797.jpeg


IMG_1799.jpeg


IMG_1798.jpeg
Gotcha. Looks good.

I have reinstalled the underwood insulation blanket after cutting it out for the louvers. Just looking for the best way to finish off the edges of the cut.
 
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monte87

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Looks badass!!! What lid is that on ur airbox??
Thanks Anthony

QUOTE="RandomTask, post: 4108143, member: 63513"]
Here’s some images. Once all the messy work was done I added an oem stripe, PPF and ceramic back over the top, then black alu rivets to finish the job. Plenty of track events on this setup, with high temps on track in the Texas heat and no issues.

I followed the directions to the letter from the guys at Race Louvers to make sure the vents were cut and placed in the ideal spot for correct airflow.

I’ve got a different setup for the airbox (pic attached). I modified a CF GT350 box cover. But I’ll be probably be removing that going forward because there is plenty of exhaust from the race louver vent directly above the box for any heat, and the fog light cover is removed. We did some testing with both box open vs closed and fog light in/out, and even tried using a baffle for the air flow which was pointless given the massive holes the grill has anyway.

No dyno data, but IAT were lower with this improved air flow. I don’t have figures on that, because I’m lazy and didn’t write anything down.

IMG_1796.jpeg


IMG_1797.jpeg


IMG_1799.jpeg


IMG_1798.jpeg

[/QUOTE]
 

RandomTask

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Looks badass!!! What lid is that on ur airbox??
Thanks Anthony

It’s the Archetype Racing Warthog 2 lid. It’s requires some modifying to fit.

AJ Hartman has a CF GT350 lid that I believe he says can also be fitted to the M1 by slotting the mounting hole.
 

gsxr1300

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Ok, Thanks for reply and 411. Greatly appreciate it!!! I will contact AJ hartman for tips on modification of lid.
 

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Not intending to hijack the thread, but I am interested whether someone has checked how much air is vented out of the stock hood vents? The slot there seems so minimal they seem to be barely functioning. On the passenger side the liner is cut, on the driver side, because of the air BOX enclosure is ... kind of blocked. So question is - do they make any difference at all?
I also made the plastic cover as shown on some of the videos above considering to either remove the liner or cut it out so it can vent.
 
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monte87

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Not intending to hijack the thread, but I am interested whether someone has checked how much air is vented out of the stock hood vents? The slot there seems so minimal they seem to be barely functioning. On the passenger side the liner is cut, on the driver side, because of the air BOX enclosure is ... kind of blocked. So question is - do they make any difference at all?
I also made the plastic cover as shown on some of the videos above considering to either remove the liner or cut it out so it can vent.
Our hood vents are more of a pressure relief exit, not air vent. If the filter is protected from water and heat (High IAT's) then you can remove the hood insulation. Personally, I wouldnt remove it it catches a lot of water from those open vents and directs water to drainage spots.
I have to remove the insulation due to installing a shaker hood kit soon, I am lookijg for the plexi glass airbox cover, do you have an extra stencil?

Thansk Anthony
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