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Tuner can't tune my cai and has given up on me.
Red65
Well-Known Member
It has something to do with some weird turbulence. The 2018+ JLT actually has a slightly larger MAF housing than the 15-17 JLT. The tube also has some subtle bend and taper differences. Most likely it could be fixed but it would require more work than just loading a tune, doing a data log to confirm it’s safe and then leaving it be. Most people with a 15-17 car simply just reuse their old JLT when they go with a 18+ manifold, or they buy it new with the 18+ manifold since it’s already listed for their year model. From what I’ve seen, not too many people attempt to run the 18+ jlt on a 15-17 car so odds are tuners don’t have a corrected MAF curve for that combo specifically.
GR1MxREAPER
Well-Known Member
The JLT on 18+ looks great but it barely fits with a stock hood. You have to angle it down soo much that it is almost Out of the coupler and still lightly hits the hood. They have some dynos of stock with a tune and JLT with a tune and the JLT for sure is more power.. but that’s with the hood open so no engine heat. Either way it does add power especially with E85 it seems? Mine whistles on cold starts for the first 30 seconds and Sounds like a supercharger haha Then it calms down. Kinda weird. Car pulls like a funny car though so I’m not complaining haha. Hopefully you figure this all out.. 
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tdstuart
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- Thread starter
- #34
Fits in my car really well actually and ya it does have a whistle especially at low rpm high load.The JLT on 18+ looks great but it barely fits with a stock hood. You have to angle it down soo much that it is almost Out of the coupler and still lightly hits the hood. They have some dynos of stock with a tune and JLT with a tune and the JLT for sure is more power.. but that’s with the hood open so no engine heat. Either way it does add power especially with E85 it seems? Mine whistles on cold starts for the first 30 seconds and Sounds like a supercharger haha Then it calms down. Kinda weird. Car pulls like a funny car though so I’m not complaining haha. Hopefully you figure this all out..
Been messaging someone who knows a bit more.
My car is adding 30% more fuel at normal operation and 10%+ at wot. MAF is good, and the intake had a leak but I did a temporary patch and it didn’t change anything.
At this point I’m going to message Lund see if they think they can fix it and decide if I want to spend the money. Or maybe I’ll buy the 15-17 JLT or the pmas.
GR1MxREAPER
Well-Known Member
Gotcha. Yeah the 18+ hoods are a lot lower in front so it rests right on the intake lol. I’m tuned by lund through HP tuners app. It is awesome. Just got my flex tune and once my tank is empty we will be data logging that. I live their customer service.. it’s the best.
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NASteve
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I looked into the Steeda closed box design and they say it in the video comparing the 2 different style intakes. The closed box design is meant for a max effort deal which to me means either WOT or idle, which is where a drag car lives, ok not a problem. But majority of people including myself need a air intake setup that can do part throttle and deliver a clean MAF signal so the car is driveable daily. If I was to do a N/A car that required stock like air intake then Steeda's closed box design is the way to go.
K4fxd
Well-Known Member
I think the issue is you have the 18 up JLT. Maybe sell it and get a 15 to 17?
I suppose you could add 30% to the MAF curve and that would maybe bring your fuel trims in line but that would probably cause a bunch of drivability issues. Stalling at stop lights, stumble's ect.....
I suppose you could add 30% to the MAF curve and that would maybe bring your fuel trims in line but that would probably cause a bunch of drivability issues. Stalling at stop lights, stumble's ect.....
Zelek
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2018+ sucks more air through maybe? Just throwing guesses out. I definitely had issues with the JLT 2018 version but when I downsized the piping a little bit even on other intakes, it got smooth again so it's definitely a 15-17 thing.
Red65
Well-Known Member
I spoke with TJ about it since it's kind of misleading. Supposedly by max effort they mean that you're making the most power possible through a closed CAI design to take full advantage of colder IATs and a factory style MAF curve. He said that the closed CAI street manners are perfectly fine. Their silver bullet car has it and he said that it's always driven all over town with no issues. He said they experimented with moving the MAF sensor location, but it had minimal effect on air signal. However, he also said that they have made revisions to how the lid seals to work seamlessly with the factory box clips. Prior there seemed to be some issues where customers had stretched clips after using it due to them being so tight, but that seems to have been fixed now.
Red65
Well-Known Member
There's no telling since there's quite a few factors to consider here. MAF systems like ours are EXTREMELY sensitive to intake/maf tube changes. When I was working with Lund in trying to deal with my 18+ JLT CAI issues, I had swapped my CAI back to the factory 15-17 unit and forgot to load the updated calibration. Not a single cylinder would even try to fire, you'd swear that the fuel system was totally disconnected. So they are pretty finnicky
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lizardrko
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Technically he said "reputable remote tuner"
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tdstuart
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- #44
They already tried bumping my maf curve up. The thing is I’m getting 46-49 peak maf. Even adding 11% for the wot that means the maf should be reading 50-53. Which is a big increase over the factory box which has peaks around 44. Just don’t think the JLT is flowing 25% more air but who knows.
Red65
Well-Known Member
I am Lund tuned, but I no longer have the 18+ JLT. It had an unsteady idle and it would surge while cruising down the road. I swapped to the 15-17 JLT and it cleared up most of my issues. Where I live it gets pretty warm so the high IATs weren't fun. I ended up getting a 18+ OEM CAI and I wish I had done it from the start. Nothing but praises for this intake.
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