Tuner can't tune my cai and has given up on me.

[tdstuart]

I am tuned by a reputable remote tuner (not palm beach dyno or lund). They have been pretty good to me until recently. I have always had a shifting issue from 3rd-4th but that hasn't been too much of an issue. But after I got my jlt cai they are saying they can't get the tune running right (higher than 10%stft and >20% ltft). I have a 2015 mustang gt, ported 2018 IM, 47lb injectors, headers, no cats, and now a 2018+ jlt 120mm cai.

Once I got the new intake they made me pay another $100 to get a tune update. The first file they sent me wouldnt let the car start if the car was warm. They blamed it on my o2 being out and refused to do anything till I fixed it. I fixed the o2, confirmed it was reading right. Tune still has the same issue. They have sent me multiple revisions on e85 and 91. I have pressure tested and leak tested the intake. I found a small leak, patched it, but it didn't make any difference. I checked the maf and the maf works fine with the old intake so not sure why it wouldn't work fine with this one.

Tuner stopped responding to me for a day and when I asked for an update they said:
"There is still a problem and we have nothing left to update.
Swap back to the other intake"

So I basically just paid $100 to have them tell me they can't tune a cai... Really considering going with lund. Only issue is I've spent a lot of money with this tuner and I don't know if I want to spend another $700 with lund.

Has anyone had issues with cai tunes? Any mechanical recommendations / things to check?
The intake itself really looks fine to me but if anyone has a great way to test for leaks I would like to hear it. If anyone is a tuner and wants to read my datalogs I have tons of datalogs comparing tune revisions and stock intake vs JLT.

Honestly just been really frustrated by the lack of help and communication from my tuner. I have got more responses from personally messaging a lund tuner... Especially since I feel a cai should be one of the easiest things to tune for, but i'm no tuner. I would also hate it to be a mechanical issue, go to lund, and have them tell me the same thing.

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[tdstuart]

The maf was reading low in the first few tunes (33lb/min compared to 43lb/min with stock). Fuel trims have always been high but have gotten a lot better with revisions. Tuner claims they have really had to crank up the maf curve to that of a car with 150mm intake tube.

I have had issues on e85 and 91 tunes.

 

[Andy13186]

Do you have any modifications to your grill?

 

[tdstuart]

Do you have any modifications to your grill?

Nope factory grill. The 2018 jlt aligns well with the factory grill slot to direct air right to the intake. Looks almost as flush as the factory tube.

 

[Zelek]

I got some surging on that intake with a Lund tune with your same setup on a 17 GT so I can probably tell you its best to swap it back to a 2018+ stock intake box and call it a day. It's not really worth it. The drivability is night and day better and smoother on the stock box. Your IAT's will also appreciate it.

The one intake outside of stock that I really did like was the CPL Icebox. They also provided the MAF curve on their site too.

 

[PaddyPrix]

The maf was reading low in the first few tunes (33lb/min compared to 43lb/min with stock). Fuel trims have always been high but have gotten a lot better with revisions. Tuner claims they have really had to crank up the maf curve to that of a car with 150mm intake tube.

I have had issues on e85 and 91 tunes.

Don't know who they are, but sounds right. I went to a bigger intake (Steeda 121mm) and the car wouldn't start. An even bigger tube sucking the same amount of air from the atmosphere while the car isn't moving, the MAF has a much bigger tube to sample the air from. I did some tuning and eventually it worked, but the likelihood of the MAF being incorrect goes up a whole lot, and I didn't feel it was as accurate. I ended up taking that bigger tube and intake off, and back to my stock box. Let's say it somehow makes an extra 10hp, not worth the trouble in my eyes.

 

[Mustangfreek]

Why not just who’s tune?

 

[Zelek]

Don't know who they are, but sounds right. I went to a bigger intake (Steeda 121mm) and the car wouldn't start. An even bigger tube sucking the same amount of air from the atmosphere while the car isn't moving, the MAF has a much bigger tube to sample the air from. I did some tuning and eventually it worked, but the likelihood of the MAF being incorrect goes up a whole lot, and I didn't feel it was as accurate. I ended up taking that bigger tube and intake off, and back to my stock box. Let's say it somehow makes an extra 10hp, not worth the trouble in my eyes.

That Steeda closed box one runs like crap imo. Fuel trims were off and the MAF signal was dirty. Sure it works but I didn't find a lot of benefit with it when I tried it. Flex tunes don't work at all with it because of the MAF.

 

[PaddyPrix]

That Steeda closed box one runs like crap imo. Fuel trims were off and the MAF signal was dirty. Sure it works but I didn't find a lot of benefit with it when I tried it. Flex tunes don't work at all with it because of the MAF.

Yeah, I can't return it because of a bad mold, I had to cut and trim just to get it to fit and latch onto my stock lower box. I have a 3d printer, and was considering doing it myself, but I listened to people I don't usually listen to... and, well, here I am.

 

[LSchicago]

I am tuned by a reputable remote tuner (not palm beach dyno or lund). They have been pretty good to me until recently. I have always had a shifting issue from 3rd-4th but that hasn't been too much of an issue. But after I got my jlt cai they are saying they can't get the tune running right (higher than 10%stft and >20% ltft). I have a 2015 mustang gt, ported 2018 IM, 47lb injectors, headers, no cats, and now a 2018+ jlt 120mm cai.

Once I got the new intake they made me pay another $100 to get a tune update. The first file they sent me wouldnt let the car start if the car was warm. They blamed it on my o2 being out and refused to do anything till I fixed it. I fixed the o2, confirmed it was reading right. Tune still has the same issue. They have sent me multiple revisions on e85 and 91. I have pressure tested and leak tested the intake. I found a small leak, patched it, but it didn't make any difference. I checked the maf and the maf works fine with the old intake so not sure why it wouldn't work fine with this one.

Tuner stopped responding to me for a day and when I asked for an update they said:
"There is still a problem and we have nothing left to update.
Swap back to the other intake"

So I basically just paid $100 to have them tell me they can't tune a cai... Really considering going with lund. Only issue is I've spent a lot of money with this tuner and I don't know if I want to spend another $700 with lund.

Has anyone had issues with cai tunes? Any mechanical recommendations / things to check?
The intake itself really looks fine to me but if anyone has a great way to test for leaks I would like to hear it. If anyone is a tuner and wants to read my datalogs I have tons of datalogs comparing tune revisions and stock intake vs JLT.

Honestly just been really frustrated by the lack of help and communication from my tuner. I have got more responses from personally messaging a lund tuner... Especially since I feel a cai should be one of the easiest things to tune for, but i'm no tuner. I would also hate it to be a mechanical issue, go to lund, and have them tell me the same thing.

This is why going with a big tuner like Lund or PBD makes sense. They have tuned virtually every combo of parts. My Lund tunes were simple and painless.

 

[Red65]

I am tuned by a reputable remote tuner (not palm beach dyno or lund). They have been pretty good to me until recently. I have always had a shifting issue from 3rd-4th but that hasn't been too much of an issue. But after I got my jlt cai they are saying they can't get the tune running right (higher than 10%stft and >20% ltft). I have a 2015 mustang gt, ported 2018 IM, 47lb injectors, headers, no cats, and now a 2018+ jlt 120mm cai.

Once I got the new intake they made me pay another $100 to get a tune update. The first file they sent me wouldnt let the car start if the car was warm. They blamed it on my o2 being out and refused to do anything till I fixed it. I fixed the o2, confirmed it was reading right. Tune still has the same issue. They have sent me multiple revisions on e85 and 91. I have pressure tested and leak tested the intake. I found a small leak, patched it, but it didn't make any difference. I checked the maf and the maf works fine with the old intake so not sure why it wouldn't work fine with this one.

Tuner stopped responding to me for a day and when I asked for an update they said:
"There is still a problem and we have nothing left to update.
Swap back to the other intake"

So I basically just paid $100 to have them tell me they can't tune a cai... Really considering going with lund. Only issue is I've spent a lot of money with this tuner and I don't know if I want to spend another $700 with lund.

Has anyone had issues with cai tunes? Any mechanical recommendations / things to check?
The intake itself really looks fine to me but if anyone has a great way to test for leaks I would like to hear it. If anyone is a tuner and wants to read my datalogs I have tons of datalogs comparing tune revisions and stock intake vs JLT.

Honestly just been really frustrated by the lack of help and communication from my tuner. I have got more responses from personally messaging a lund tuner... Especially since I feel a cai should be one of the easiest things to tune for, but i'm no tuner. I would also hate it to be a mechanical issue, go to lund, and have them tell me the same thing.

I had the exact setup minus the 47lb injectors, and while my MAF numbers were never that low with the 2018 JLT CAI, I did have a weird surging and idle problem. Many members have noted having issues with the 2018+ JLT specifically on 2015-17 cars. Comparing the 15-17 JLT CAI against the 2018+ version on a gen 2 engine showed higher flow and power numbers on the 15-17 JLT. The best CAI for that setup concerning both drivability and power is the 2018+ OEM airbox. Has a comparable maf housing to the 15-17 JLT CAI and a factory MAF curve which makes street drivability feel like OEM. The only better CAI is the steeda closed box, but members have noted some drivability issues with E85/91 Flex specifically. Steeda claimed that they were making a revised version of the box with a relocated maf sensor to fix that but idk if that has happened yet or not. Maybe the steeda rep can chime in.

 

[AZ18yote]

I can probably tell you its best to swap it back to a 2018+ stock intake box and call it a day. It's not really worth it. The drivability is night and day better and smoother on the stock box. Your IAT's will also appreciate it

Yup this right here. Sound advice.

 

[AZ18yote]

The only better CAI is the steeda closed box, but members have noted some drivability issues with E85/91 Flex specifically.

On flex with the Steeda closed box I wouldn't say driveability, I would say the inability to successfully run it due to maf turbulence.

As others stated 18 oem, smooth maf, good iats, and flows great. Hard to beat it.

 

[tdstuart]

The thing is the car seems to run and drive fine now. Car pulls really hard. Ran a 4.6 0-60 with 115 degree intake temps (city driving about 100 degrees outside). And that’s my best 0-60 I’ve managed on the street (probably traction limited).

Car feels like it loves the intake but the logs show it adding fuel.

 

[Red65]

On flex with the Steeda closed box I wouldn't say driveability, I would say the inability to successfully run it due to maf turbulence.

As others stated 18 oem, smooth maf, good iats, and flows great. Hard to beat it.

I agree. It’s what I have at the moment after going through 2 other CAI setups.

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