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Tramlining

MiamiGT350

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I am going to be in Medellin for Thanksgiving week if you are interested in meeting - Nov 22 to 28.

The Steeda g-trac brace helps significantly with tramlining also. I agree with others that your tires and alignment are likely contributing.
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Mustangcol

Mustangcol

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I am going to be in Medellin for Thanksgiving week if you are interested in meeting - Nov 22 to 28.

The Steeda g-trac brace helps significantly with tramlining also. I agree with others that your tires and alignment are likely contributing.
Definitely. Your first time here? You can PM me. I'm American and have lived here for 2 years.

Steeda g-trac was on my short list, but this morning I thought "if something is going to deflect, it will be those control arms bushings before the frame" and the price was similar. Maybe in the future i'll do the g-trac
 

Bluemustang

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Definitely. Your first time here? You can PM me. I'm American and have lived here for 2 years.

Steeda g-trac was on my short list, but this morning I thought "if something is going to deflect, it will be those control arms bushings before the frame" and the price was similar. Maybe in the future i'll do the g-trac
It is probably placebo effect. Tramlining is mostly to do with tires, camber angle, scrub angle radius and stiffness of the suspension.
 
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Mustangcol

Mustangcol

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It is probably placebo effect. Tramlining is mostly to do with tires, camber angle, scrub angle radius and stiffness of the suspension.
I am thinking that the best bang for the buck is next I order BMR adjustable sway bars, BMR camber plates, ford performance track strut/shock kit, and steeda minimum drop springs.

So my build would be

To order:
BMR Adjustable Sway Bars
BMR Camber Plates (front tow at 2.5)
Ford Performance Track/Shock Kit
Steeda Minimum Drop Springs

Already ordered:
Ford Performance Tow Link Bearings âś…
Ford Performance Tow Links âś…
Ford Performance Front Control Arms âś…
Ford Performance Strut Brace âś…
BMR Level 2 Cradle Bushing âś…
LCA Bearings âś…
4 New Falken Azenis FK520L 255/40r19âś…

Thats another $1700 to put into this. Please talk me into this/talk me out of this haha the 1/2" drop could be problematic, but at least we got a new scooter to get around

d5590c9b-62ac-4ab2-97ae-56b5faa55b9f.JPG
 

Bluemustang

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I am thinking that the best bang for the buck is next I order BMR adjustable sway bars, BMR camber plates, ford performance track strut/shock kit, and steeda minimum drop springs.

So my build would be

To order:
BMR Adjustable Sway Bars
BMR Camber Plates (front tow at 2.5)
Ford Performance Track/Shock Kit
Steeda Minimum Drop Springs

Already ordered:
Ford Performance Tow Link Bearings âś…
Ford Performance Tow Links âś…
Ford Performance Front Control Arms âś…
Ford Performance Strut Brace âś…
BMR Level 2 Cradle Bushing âś…
LCA Bearings âś…
4 New Falken Azenis FK520L 255/40r19âś…

Thats another $1700 to put into this. Please talk me into this/talk me out of this haha the 1/2" drop could be problematic, but at least we got a new scooter to get around

d5590c9b-62ac-4ab2-97ae-56b5faa55b9f.JPG
Well, the stiffer you make the suspension and lower the ride height/increase the negative camber, it's probably going to tramline MORE not less. It's a feature of the car. These Mustangs tend to tramline. New owners of stock GT350/R have complained about it. It is just what they do. Personally, I would spend less time on worrying about it, and understanding what's causing it and what's normal and what's not. My instinct is what you're describing is most likely normal behavior for the Mustang. More modifications that stiffens the suspension and lower the ride height will only increase this tendency.

I have modded the entire suspension on my Mustang and I'm running -2.5 degrees of negative camber up front on the street lol. So, if you wanna talk about tramlining... I have it. I know that it is a normal behavior for the car and I accept it and learn to adjust for it.
 

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Bluemustang

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Again, I would buy new front tires to match the brand/model you have on the rear and start there. There's a good chance it's behaving weird because of that. Don't throw more parts at it until you do that. I know it may seem that you're closer to getting where you want by throwing more parts at it, but imo it's better to get the car back to a normal state and then evaluate. After you've evaluated, then report your findings and consider next steps if any.
 
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Mustangcol

Mustangcol

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Again, I would buy new front tires to match the brand/model you have on the rear and start there. There's a good chance it's behaving weird because of that. Don't throw more parts at it until you do that. I know it may seem that you're closer to getting where you want by throwing more parts at it, but imo it's better to get the car back to a normal state and then evaluate. After you've evaluated, then report your findings and consider next steps if any.
Yeah you're right. If I go change the struts and springs at the same time as the other parts, it may increase tramlining and I wouldn't know what had fixed it. I'll report what I find, drive it, and I'll do the strut/spring upgrade as a christmas gift for myself. Plus is maybe there will be a black friday deal.
 

Bluemustang

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Yeah you're right. If I go change the struts and springs at the same time as the other parts, it may increase tramlining and I wouldn't know what had fixed it. I'll report what I find, drive it, and I'll do the strut/spring upgrade as a christmas gift for myself. Plus is maybe there will be a black friday deal.
I think once you get the tires right, you'll be in a good place. Then if you want to do more mods, you will feel afterwards what did what and you will feel more comfortable.
 

NightmareMoon

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I think its a great idea to do the springs and shocks as a round 2 change, so you know what change did what.

As for springs, I was recommending the performance pack springs which are no-drop from base and just barely stiff enough to keep the dive and squat from banging the bumpstops too bad. Its a mild but worthwhile increase from the base springs and I think they’d pair fine with the track struts

The track handling springs are definitely stiffer, while still being very streetable for most people, but they’re lower, and if speed bumps and potholes are a concern, the full height PP1 springs would be worth a try instead.

Anyway, have fun!
 
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Mustangcol

Mustangcol

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I think its a great idea to do the springs and shocks as a round 2 change, so you know what change did what.

As for springs, I was recommending the performance pack springs which are no-drop from base and just barely stiff enough to keep the dive and squat from banging the bumpstops too bad. Its a mild but worthwhile increase from the base springs and I think they’d pair fine with the track struts

The track handling springs are definitely stiffer, while still being very streetable for most people, but they’re lower, and if speed bumps and potholes are a concern, the full height PP1 springs would be worth a try instead.

Anyway, have fun!
That sounds like the move. We go a lot to different restaurants and hotels at the lake, and often we need to call ahead to be sure that we can get in with the Mustang.

I ended up ordering the BMR adjustable sway bars thinking that would give me a little more confidence in the curves until I'm ready to do shocks/struts. And I found a shop that would let me use their lift. I'm a little crazy about letting people touch my stuff lol
 

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I do a lot of mountain roads from high speed sweepers to super tight Twisties ....I would start with front sway only full soft see how it's behaving then go to middle of not happy then rear bar full soft...

I have HPP Ecoboost so 200lb lighter on front end the Eibach front bar and Ford 24 mm rear is perfect balance on highway with B6. Looking to get rid of B6 fronts as too stiff for Ecoboost....
 
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Mustangcol

Mustangcol

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I was doing some thinking last night (dangerous/expensive). I have some vacation days to burn so we're going to drive to another city, go to the track, and take classes. I need a tuned package and was thinking about those GT350 springs. Why not just do GT350 sway bars, springs, and ford performance track strut/shocks? So I cancelled the BMR sway bar order. Also would be cheaper to send used springs and sway bars through customs here. My forward shipper can put a much lower price and it will cruise through customs without red flag. GT350 springs look like 3/8" drop and I don't imagine that being a problem. Even if it is, there's spacers available to get it back up.

Now to find those part numbers..

Spring rates courtesy of someone else on the forum.
mustang_rf.webp
 
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Mustangcol

Mustangcol

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I think once you get the tires right, you'll be in a good place. Then if you want to do more mods, you will feel afterwards what did what and you will feel more comfortable.
I put 2 new front tires to match the rear and it feels like a different car. The westlakes that the previous owner put were absolute garbage.

I want to vent, I had bought this car through consignation through a dealer and we've been at war. I had paid for mechanic's review "peritaje", which is common practice here, and his place hid a lot of issues in the report to sell the car. Car had mice, damage to the engine cradle/oil pan from hitting an object in the road, ceratec in the motor (has that common tick, but I don't know if it's bad. I changed the oil on day 1 and the motor started with a loud tick, I put ceratec again and it quiet 90% of the noise), control arm bushings, bad tires, water pump went after 10 miles, never gave me the 2nd key, car was dirty etc. My fault for not actually reviewing the car myself and I am being hard on myself for not doing that. I have sold at least $300k worth of cars, boats, and motorcycles in my life. Everybody has always been happy with what I sell. Even going far enough to help with issues after the sale. I don't do what these a**holes do, so I will pay whatever it is to resolve everything and enjoy it for a few years before selling it and moving to another country (I am a digital nomad)

So I ordered a bunch of stuff because I want to do my first track day in Bogota, Colombia.. The final build is:

GT350 front springs 194lbs with FRPP Struts
PP Rear Springs 728lbs with Bilstein B6 Shocks
GT350 36mm Front Sway Bar
BMR Adjustable Rear Sway Bar
BMR CB005 Lockout
BMR Rear LCA Bearing
FP Tow Link Bearings
FP Tow Link
FP Front Control Arms
FP Strut Tower Brace
Falken FK520L 255/40r19 Tires

I'm shooting for a budget 200/800 spring set up for street/track without lowering. I read the FRPP struts have GT350 valving so I will pair them with 194lb GT350 springs. I couldn't find any rear spring that was 800lb that didn't lower the car significantly. So I compromised with PP springs. I think the FRPP shocks are overdamped for a 728lb spring so I went with the BIlstein B6 in the rear.
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