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The mods in my signature have created no NVH and I've done a lot to create a great handling car that can still be daily driven on south american roads. It's been down too many dirt roads to count and small towns with crazy speed bumps. The only problem I have is the poly bushings on the rear...

an old one before changing the headlights

Went to a cabin on Friday. I didn't realize that I had "pico y placa" for the Mazda. It means if the plate ends in 4 then I can't use it on Friday to limit the traffic. So, we took the Mustang. This car has seen more off road than any Mustang and the LVA splitter is beat up after 1000 miles lol

That looks really good. But those PP belly pans are pricey! We have Mach 1 and GT350 but there's no PP mustangs here in Colombia so I would have to ship it $$$$. Good idea on the rivets, I didn't think to put rivets because the ducts came with bolts.

Right now I have the splitter installed as high as it can go because of the roads here. Maybe next year the track will finally open in the city and I'll finish the job and fully chassis support it. I would just have to disconnect it from the bumper and put 2 more rods in the back. Preferably...

I wanted to share what I ended up doing with my LVA splitter, maybe these pictures will help other people because this wasn't a solution that I had found on the forum. I bought the ducts from FSR engineering and they're a lot cheaper. If I could do it again, I would install the tires then...

SVE MHP1 on 285/35r19 squared

I got everything installed and aligned. The AAD arms came with the most negative chip and if I had to do it again, I would start with the mid-setting chip, set the toe, and choose the next chip. I was helping the alignment tech, but ran out of time and had to go to work. So I'll tweak the right...

Nothing has changed with the AAD camber arms. I'm talking about the BMR camber plates. I have 2x 14mm bearing spacers and 2x 16mm bearing spacers. One of the 16mm bearing spacers have a lot of play in the strut mount. But I think the Ford FR3 track struts are 14mm so I should be good to go...

I am talking about the BMR camber plates and the bearing spacers for the front struts.

I just arrived in NYC after a canceled flight gave me an unexpected stay in south florida. and then delays getting to NYC lol the camber plates and AAD camber arms I had ordered are here, but I bought a second hand camber plates on ebay that appear 100% new. It came with the 4 bearing spacers...

Thank you for the reply. I had spoke with AAD and ordered them like 1 minute ago lol I ran it through ChatGPT deep research and it didn't find any failures with their design like I've seen on others.

I am tempted to order the SPC camber arms or the AAD performance camber arms. Any experience with the 2? SPC: up to -2 rear camber bonded bushings a little more expensive indestructible AAD: up to -3 rear camber inboard poly bushing (maybe need to grease after sometime, a lot of rain/dirt...

The alignment tech showed me the bolt and it looked all the way inboard. This is frustrating. I looked at the list of mods that I did in the rear to see if something could have impacted the camber. The BMR control arm bearings, i dont think so. Neither the ford performance toe bearing. I'm...

I forgot to reply to your question. Yes, it is very noticeable that it shifts when I move it in the slot. I had the mechanic on the ladder pushing the top of the tire in when the alignment tech tightened down the bolt

Okay. I am bringing the BMR camber plates back from USA and I'll give it another full wheel alignment. I'll also check if there's anything worn back there (shouldn't be, most stuff is new). And I'll try clocking the bushings. I think in the rear, I'll lift the car, loosen the suspension wherever...

On their camber plate instructions they say -1.75 front for street stock style radials, and -2 for 200 treadwear performance tires. I have Falken FK510 with 300TW tires so I'd like to run -1.8 or -2 up front. I shouldn't have a issue getting there with the camber plates that I ordered. But the...

Thats the shop's numbers. I'm currently at: Front Toe: 0.06 and 0.07 Front Caster: I think 7.6 Front Camber: -1.4 Rear toe: 0.10 and 0.10 Rear Camber: -1.1 and -1.3

I tried 2 shops. I read that the toe is related, so any changes to toe will change the camber. When I'm done with this I'm going to be an expert lol. Right now the rear toe is -0.10 each side with a total of -0.20

Yeah thats the bolt that we loosened. I am reading that it goes up to -2 camber, but I am not seeing that. I don't remember if the alignment tech bounced the suspension after we set that..