Track Time Limited due to High CHT

[NeverSatisfied]

Hey guys. I will post a progress report on my build by week's end. Setrab 12965 Proline Com 2-pass cooler, mounted horizontally with vented belly pan, Setrab billet sandwich plate, 12AN hoses, opened OEM grille, etc.

I've spent so many hours with 3 attempts to get that cooler to fit in that space. It had to be angled up 5* above horizontal to fit.

Tomorrow is oil drain day to install the plate. Newb question about oil cooler install: Can't I simply connect all the plumbing , start the car, and not worry about how or when the new cooler becomes primed?

It seems to me that the 180* Tstat will remain closed, and the plate will bypass the new cooler and still protect the engine with oil flow. Once the temp rises above 180 then the valve gradually opens, filling the cooler and purging out the air.

I just don't think it is practical (ie clean) to try to prime a horizontal cooler with both fittings on one end.

For the little bit of effort it takes to prime it—I’d recommend filling it through a hose at the sandwich plate if needed. Pull the coil plugs and crank cycle the engine a few times. That’s a lot of air to push through the oil system.

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[NeverSatisfied]

Just curious how much you opened your grill relative to stock. I'm at +57% in area from OEM. Still trying to find time to install. Maybe next week. I believe GTP is in the range of +90-100% based on the areas he mentioned.

I just hogged out the oem grill. Still have the pony emblem

 

[GTP]

If you are wondering what it looks like without the pony:

I didn’t want to give up that airflow either.

RE: priming: yes you’ll be fine leaving the cooler and lines empty. The Tstat in the sandwich plate bleeds by some oil even closed so the cooler will fill pretty quickly after startup anyways.

Reminds me of the cartoon character running out the closed front door and leaving a perfect hole in the shape of his profile.

How did you cut it out?

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

Reminds me of the cartoon character running out the closed front door and leaving a perfect hole in the shape of his profile.

How did you cut it out?

Hahaha totally.

Dremel.

 

[GTP]

All Setrab/Susa parts...
M22 O-ring to -10AN 45's at the sandwich plate
-10AN flex hose from improved racing
Setrab sandwich plate w/ T-stat stacked on top of a Setrab spacer plate with 2 fittings for sensors.

Mishimoto oil filter sandwich adaptor (mine was the thermostat controlled unit)
30 deg -12an hose end fitting for the filter plate side. I had to get mishimoto -10an fittings then straight adaptors to get to -12an

How do I get M22 / -12AN adapters to work with the Setrab plate? The C-C spacing is 32mm, which is too close for the -12AN hose fittings to both go on without interference between the hex ends.

Does the Mishimoto have larger C-C spacing?

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

Its very tight but my fittings (Raceflux from Improved Racing) do fit. Its so tight though the first fitting needs a flat facing the other fitting. If you have one of the points on the first fitting facing the second fitting they will make contact and you will not be able to tighten the second fitting.

 

[GTP]

Yeah, I figured that out.

Too bad that new billet plate won't work for AN12. Flats or points, there is no way two of those will work at 32 C-C. The cast plate C-C is 36mm.

EDIT: Ironically the Mishimoto plate looks to have ample spacing, but the ports are not tapped for M22.

 

[GTP]

Its very tight but my fittings (Raceflux from Improved Racing) do fit. Its so tight though the first fitting needs a flat facing the other fitting. If you have one of the points on the first fitting facing the second fitting they will make contact and you will not be able to tighten the second fitting.

BTW, what method do you use to tighten the fitting - Snug plus 1.5 flats, or ... ?
Asking because clearly an adjustable wrench is involved vs torque wrench, plus the points/flats issue.

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

BTW, what method do you use to tighten the fitting - Snug plus 1.5 flats, or ... ?
Asking because clearly an adjustable wrench is involved vs torque wrench, plus the points/flats issue.

yeah for -12 Aeroquip specs 1-1.5 flats as an approved alternate to a torque wrench.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

How do I get M22 / -12AN adapters to work with the Setrab plate? The C-C spacing is 32mm, which is too close for the -12AN hose fittings to both go on without interference between the hex ends.

Does the Mishimoto have larger C-C spacing?

Use straight M22 O-ring to -12AN hose fittings. Looks like they'll clear. Or use 45's and they'll definitely clear.

 

[GTP]

FYI the Setrab rep thought 12AN hose is overkill:

"Why would you ever feel a need to run -12 connections in a wet-sump oiling system circuit employing a circa 77mm oil filter can? We just assume you’ll choose connections with the ability to convey your circuit at its max flow."

 

[Biggsy]

dumb question, but what re you guys using to read oil temperature. I replaced the PP gauges in mt 2017 PP with the GT350 gauges (pressure and temp). I don't want to overthink it if those are sufficient. Temp reads 200* on street. I know I am going to add a transmission and diff gauge once I get around doing cooling system for those.

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

FYI the Setrab rep thought 12AN hose is overkill:

"Why would you ever feel a need to run -12 connections in a wet-sump oiling system circuit employing a circa 77mm oil filter can? We just assume you’ll choose connections with the ability to convey your circuit at its max flow."

Ford Performance thinks otherwise so I’ll stick with their opinion. Also with oil at 255* and the GT500 oil pan and pump, 948 and -12 lines I’m still seeing 95 PSI at redline which makes me happy, piece of mind. To his point though the FP FL820 oil filter has more than double the stock filter’s surface area which reduces induced pressure and increases flow.

dumb question, but what re you guys using to read oil temperature. I replaced the PP gauges in mt 2017 PP with the GT350 gauges (pressure and temp). I don't want to overthink it if those are sufficient. Temp reads 200* on street. I know I am going to add a transmission and diff gauge once I get around doing cooling system for those.

Glowshift for me, price point is hard to pass up and they work well enough.

 

[GTP]

Ford Performance thinks otherwise so I’ll stick with their opinion. Also with oil at 255* and the GT500 oil pan and pump, 948 and -12 lines I’m still seeing 95 PSI at redline which makes me happy, piece of mind. To his point though the FP FL820 oil filter has more than double the stock filter’s surface area which reduces induced pressure and increases flow.

Kinda what I thought too. I'm taking the same brute force approach as everyone else in this thread as regards cooling temps.

I only use the Ford parts FL820s filter. Same size as FP only $6. Yes I know it's not quite the same internally.

 

[Biggsy]

Ford Performance thinks otherwise so I’ll stick with their opinion. Also with oil at 255* and the GT500 oil pan and pump, 948 and -12 lines I’m still seeing 95 PSI at redline which makes me happy, piece of mind. To his point though the FP FL820 oil filter has more than double the stock filter’s surface area which reduces induced pressure and increases flow.




Glowshift for me, price point is hard to pass up and they work well enough.

Good to know. I know you have a couple but don’t know which ones. Do you have temp gauges for your transmission and diff too?

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