besides an immense amount of air getting around your radiator, that mishi oil cooler setup (besides being undersized) just hangs in no man’s land from what I remember. It’s killing efficiency—you need to add ducting to the oil cooler and then from the oil cooler up to the condenser.
This is true, but I don't think anyone here is worried about getting an extra 5-10 HP from a slightly cooler engine. They just want the engine temperature to stay within its normal operating range during a track event so that the ECU doesn't shut down your fun time.
Actually, according to thermodynamics, energy produced is proportional to the difference in inlet (combustion) and outlet (ambient) temperature. The combustion temp is fixed, but not ambient. For example, Indycars make more power on cool days, but might not have the same traction to use it.
Fair enough. Only 10 track days for me so far. Must be requiring too many cooling mods in between, haha!
Don’t want to derail this thread, but if you’re interested there is a discussion regarding the Catalyst in the Mach 1 HPDE thread. 2 member are using it, and educated me on some of the ins and outs. (Including features, mounting etc.)
It's a lot more than 5-10 hp.
The engine components are designed to fit together best when the engine temperature is inside its normal operating range. If you operate the engine colder or hotter than that, you will have issues.
I can say for sure it's more than a few hp. When I locked out my grille shutters I dropped 20F in general usage. Went from 210f average cruising temp to 187. Stock thermostat, pp rad. With the same stock tune, I went from around 0 or -1 KR to -5 with no other changes. Getting 5 more degrees of timing is pretty huge and you can feel it for sure.
Every single one of our engines runs at ~180-190 degrees every time we run it. That is plenty warm enough for the car to show normal operating temp. You don't get bonus points for running it 40-50 degrees hotter and it is not good for anything involved. There is literally no advantage and a laundry list of negatives.
To the guy that can get their streetable, A/C not removed car to run 180-190F at the track--you get a gold star from me.
When I made them, tighten to a fingernail gap and you can still turn the end, but tight. That's what I do. I have bottomed them out to, never stripped one.Question to those who have assembled the 12AN fittings/lines - how tight should this gap be? I'm concerned that if I keep pushing it, I will strip the threads, it's getting real tight.