Track Setup for Mach 1 - What Wheel/Tire Combo can you recommend?

[Coastal-Mach]

Pardon the newbie question but I suppose we need one inch extension, to fit 1" spacers up front, correct?

Yes,

These are the spacers I have:

This will give you the capability of rotation with 19x11 52 offsets, with no issues.

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[VictorH]

I really wish that I had a truck and a trailer to haul my car, tires, and fuel jugs to the track but I'm not quite there yet. So, in the meantime I figured out that I can actually fit a full set of 19x11" wheels in my car and 3 VP Racing fuel jugs plus the other miscellaneous stuff I need for a track day all in my car.

My technique is to fold down the rear seats and fit 3 tires in the trunk/folded down back seat while the fourth tire rides shotgun in the passenger seat. I ratchet strap 2 of the VP Racing fuel jugs being the driver's seat and a third goes into the passenger floor board.

I didn't take any photos of the VP Racing jug setup, but these are from a previous track day where I just brought a 5 gallon “lawn mower” gas can (which I'll never do again 'cause those cans are really hard to refuel with!)

Really old school but WAAAY too dangerous. I’ve done it too, but without the fuel. Not worth the risk.
I’m of the opinion find a decent dual purpose track-street tire and drive that to your events. No one is winning any trophies, if you are time-trialing that’s a different group and you’ll need to bring stuff (lots of it). For most HPDE, dual purpose wheels (whatever set up you prefer), good track alignment (for me front only) and some modest amount of tools to check things and change pads if you need to. Simpler is more fun, unless you are absolutely stuck on lap times.

 

[2morrow]

Yes,

These are the spacers I have:

This will give you the capability of rotation with 19x11 52 offsets, with no issues.

Pro tip, when you wash your car after event and remove the wheels to get rid of all the brake dust, hit your lugs and spacers with whatever grease or anti stick compound you use. You’ll thank me later

 

[Coastal-Mach]

Pro tip, when you wash your car after event and remove the wheels to get rid of all the brake dust, hit your lugs and spacers with whatever grease or anti stick compound you use. You’ll thank me later

Thank you Todd

 

[IanKar]

Yes,

These are the spacers I have:

This will give you the capability of rotation with 19x11 52 offsets, with no issues.

That's exactly what I got with 1" ARP stud ext

 

[IanKar]

Thank you Todd

If one puts any lube or anti-seize on the studs, there is information out there that you need to reduce the torque specified as it ain't 'dry'. Their are various articles about being 80% of specified 'dry' torque. I did purchase Raceseng nuts and it specified 'dry' at 150 & lubed at 135. Not 80% though...

 

[Coastal-Mach]

If one puts any lube or anti-seize on the studs, there is information out there that you need to reduce the torque specified as it ain't 'dry'. Their are various articles about being 80% of specified 'dry' torque. I did purchase Raceseng nuts and it specified 'dry' at 150 & lubed at 135.

Thanks Ian,
I have the Apex nuts, not sure if they have a wet/dry torque spec or is that a universal thing? As you know all of this is new too me, so I’m learning from you guys who hit the track often.
Thanks again Brother!

 

[IanKar]

Thanks Ian,
I have the Apex nuts, not sure if they have a wet/dry torque spec or is that a universal thing? As you know all of this is new too me, so I’m learning from you guys who hit the track often.
Thanks again Brother!

Hi Anthony. I'm not the expert on this but when I got my Raceseng nuts and it specified this, I looked into it and found some interesting articles. Here's one from smartbolts.com. I wouldn't know how to measure the torque reduction as it depends on the studs and lubricants. That's why I just dry torque my OEM nuts at 140-145 because some shops told me that and when using the Raceseng Titanium race nuts with a bit of copper-slip on the extended ARP studs I do as specified at 135. Maybe there are some more qualified in this forum who know best as you don't want to get this wrong at any speed.

https://smartbolts.com/insights/imp...he amount of,use your energy more efficiently.

 

[RobZ71LM7]

I’m torquing OP Mustang lugs to ARP studs at 120 ft-lbs.

 

[TRDFurgesson]

Just to be concise:

1. No on 20’s
2. Fender lips aren’t needed for 275’s
2A. Fender lips aren’t needed for 305’s
2B. You’ll want camber negating the need for fender lips
3. Get a 19x11 +52 offset
4. Get slip on spacers with ARP studs for front
5. Enjoy easily rotating wheels front to back

In closing:
Apex aren’t necessary but they are a nice track wheel. Their forged units are REALLY nice.

I would shy away from the fire hawks.

If serious about track running I would open up the shock towers.

I also have 2 remaining Carbon Fiber Antigravity Battery Trays if you wanna lose 25-35 lbs off the front.

Nice tray, which AG battery is that?

 

[2morrow]

Nice tray, which AG battery is that?

Thank you sir! It’s a ATX-20HD. DM me for more info.

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