Sponsored
Norm Peterson
corner barstool sitter
Keep in mind that regardless of pad compound, pre-event tech is going to want to see 50% friction material thickness.
10's seem to last longer than 12's, at least that's what some people have found . . . so 10's in the rear are pretty much guaranteed to outlast 12's up front.
Norm
10's seem to last longer than 12's, at least that's what some people have found . . . so 10's in the rear are pretty much guaranteed to outlast 12's up front.
Norm
NightmareMoon
Well-Known Member
Even light track days just put too much heat into the brakes. Street pads just arent up to the challenge being formulated to bite at very cold temps, last a good while, low dust, and not squeak. The PP pads do
With easily swapped consumables like tires and brakes, you dont need to compromise with one do-it-all(badly) compound. You’re going to use up whatever you buy eventually, so you might as well get something right for the role. No need to burn up good track pads on the street or run low temp pads on the track.
Looking at my logs, I got 8 track 'days' on my R12 fronts, and the R10 rears are still going strong. The R12s lived exactly 32 ~15 minute sessions at H2R, TWS, COTA, and MSRH. When removed they were down to 0.155", as compared to ~0.38" new.
How many 'days' you get will depend a lot on how you brake, how bad the tracks are for braking, what tires you run, etc. YMMV and all that.
The thing with consumables like brake pads is this: If you keep the car long enough, you're going to need two (or more) set of pads eventually, and if you're going to wear through two sets of pads anyway, why not spend the money up front and have dedicated pads with one set that has good longevity on the street and another set that will take the heat and not break down early from track time.
The same logic also applies to Tires, (assuming you have the wheels lying around to mount them on). Its better to use dedicated track tires if you're going to keep the car for a while, since you're going to do the damage regardless, you might as well stock up on tires up front and run sets of tires well suited for the specific abuse you're going to deliver. The wheel cost throws a monkey wrench into the formula a little bit for tires, because now the cost savings from running the right tires for the right purpose needs to make up for the cost of the wheels too, but running a street tire above it's temperature range greatly accelerates wear, and sometimes an actual race tire will live longer than a street tire put to abuse it was never designed for.
With easily swapped consumables like tires and brakes, you dont need to compromise with one do-it-all(badly) compound. You’re going to use up whatever you buy eventually, so you might as well get something right for the role. No need to burn up good track pads on the street or run low temp pads on the track.
Right, Im on my second set
Norm is right, and they aren't just trying to keep you from running out of pads during their event. My understanding is that When pads get low they don't have as much thermal capacity, and transmit more heat to the brake fluid, etc.
Looking at my logs, I got 8 track 'days' on my R12 fronts, and the R10 rears are still going strong. The R12s lived exactly 32 ~15 minute sessions at H2R, TWS, COTA, and MSRH. When removed they were down to 0.155", as compared to ~0.38" new.
How many 'days' you get will depend a lot on how you brake, how bad the tracks are for braking, what tires you run, etc. YMMV and all that.
The thing with consumables like brake pads is this: If you keep the car long enough, you're going to need two (or more) set of pads eventually, and if you're going to wear through two sets of pads anyway, why not spend the money up front and have dedicated pads with one set that has good longevity on the street and another set that will take the heat and not break down early from track time.
The same logic also applies to Tires, (assuming you have the wheels lying around to mount them on). Its better to use dedicated track tires if you're going to keep the car for a while, since you're going to do the damage regardless, you might as well stock up on tires up front and run sets of tires well suited for the specific abuse you're going to deliver. The wheel cost throws a monkey wrench into the formula a little bit for tires, because now the cost savings from running the right tires for the right purpose needs to make up for the cost of the wheels too, but running a street tire above it's temperature range greatly accelerates wear, and sometimes an actual race tire will live longer than a street tire put to abuse it was never designed for.
Sponsored
drbrian722
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2014
- Threads
- 9
- Messages
- 338
- Reaction score
- 111
- Location
- Connecticut
- First Name
- Brian
- Vehicle(s)
- 2015 GT
I swapped out base GT for PP Brembos and tracked on OEM pads and was pleasantly surprised how well they did. Dusted like crazy, but I don't care about dust, I care about stopping. For this season I bought blanks and Hawk DTC-60 pads for track use. I'm a believer in a track set and a road set as I don't need to spank my road setup on track, and there isn't any road ready setup that provides excellent braking at track temps. After saying that, I will run Hawk HPS 5.0 on the rear full time and swap the fronts back and forth.
Norm Peterson
corner barstool sitter
↑↑↑ Perhaps you should try G-locs or Carbotechs.
Norm
Norm
tom_sprecher
Living Race Car Free
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2016
- Threads
- 30
- Messages
- 1,226
- Reaction score
- 477
- Location
- Marietta, GA
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 GT Premium PP 6MT Race Red
The OEM PP pads work well for me. I haven't tracked the car yet, but have done hours in the NoGA mountain switchbacks where it's either gas, or brake without much in between. They squeak some, and dust some, but have a good initial bite and no fade. I have never used "track day" pads, but I can tell you racing pads don't start to work at all until they are hot. Until I got used to it I would freak out on the out lap thinking there was something wrong with my brakes. 
BmacIL
Enginerd
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2014
- Threads
- 69
- Messages
- 15,010
- Reaction score
- 8,921
- Location
- Naperville, IL
- Vehicle(s)
- 2015 Guard GT Base, M/T
- Vehicle Showcase
- 1
Depends on how deep you go into the track pad realm. The endurance/racing based ones need a few hundred degrees to start working well. The R10 starts working at a relatively low 186 F, which you'll get to after 1, maybe 2 brake applies. Even the next level up, R12, starts working at 200 F.The OEM PP pads work well for me. I haven't tracked the car yet, but have done hours in the NoGA mountain switchbacks where it's either gas, or brake without much in between. They squeak some, and dust some, but have a good initial bite and no fade. I have never used "track day" pads, but I can tell you racing pads don't start to work at all until they are hot. Until I got used to it would freak out and thought there was something wrong with my brakes.
G-LOC™ R10:
The R10 has a much strong initial bite and higher coefficient of friction than R8. R10 still maintains our smooth release, excellent modulation and rotor friendliness that have been engineered into all previous G-LOC™ compounds. The R10 compound disc/rotor friendliness will lead the industry. R10™ broad temperature range and fade resistance is in excess of 1475°F (186°F /85°C – 801°C). G-LOC™ does NOT recommended R10 for daily use on the street due to elevated levels of dust and noise.
Last edited:
NightmareMoon
Well-Known Member
I havent had any issues when I’ve street driven GLOC R12/R10 pads. I’ve had slow stops on the first application on other brands pads on previous cars I’ve owned, but the GLOC track pads arent bad at all. I wouldn’t recommend the for street use due to noise and dust tho.
Sponsored
MajHazrd
Well-Known Member
Where do you guys order your GLOCs from? The Gloc dealer list says it hasn't been updated in 3 years. I'm in MN, the dealer listed on lists Nissans.
Has anyone checked the price of the stock pads... >$380 for the front set!
Has anyone checked the price of the stock pads... >$380 for the front set!
BmacIL
Enginerd
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2014
- Threads
- 69
- Messages
- 15,010
- Reaction score
- 8,921
- Location
- Naperville, IL
- Vehicle(s)
- 2015 Guard GT Base, M/T
- Vehicle Showcase
- 1
Opmustang.com
Norm Peterson
corner barstool sitter
Vorshlag also carries them.
Norm
Norm
MajHazrd
Well-Known Member
R10s on order. Installing my suspension you guys recommended from last fall. Have the front installed, work and home projects delayed the rear. Hope to finish this weekend. BMR Handling springs, BMR adjustable sway bar, Koni Yellow adjustable struts and shocks. BIR trackday on the 1st of July and Road American Aug 25th. Can't wait!!
Cardude99
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2016
- Threads
- 69
- Messages
- 2,473
- Reaction score
- 1,060
- Location
- Phoenix, AZ
- First Name
- Sam
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 Ecoboost
Sorry to bring this up from the dead, but couple of questions. Is there a reason to do different rears vs fronts? My buddy is telling me I should do the same pads all the way around to avoid brake bias. What is the school of thought on this? Also I may be going to my first track day next month, looking to get some track pads. Anyone have any experience with gloc r16's? Would those be a good pad or should I stick with r12's?
Sponsored