Track Prep for HPDE/PDX/Track Day

[Brooks_Church]

So I have read a few threads on here about what is reccomended for track prep of your S550.

I have a 2017 GB GT PP Base 6spd and will be piping her cherry here soon at Mid-Ohio for a PDX. .

I have been racing in the SCCA since 2005 and drifting locally and some Pro-Am events as well. I also grew up with a father who has been road racing since IMSA and SCCA and many more since the late 70's.

I already have plans for some suspension (Can't exactly talk about yet), but will have adjustable shocks, progressive springs, and adjustable sways.

Plans are to buy the Steeda stainless brake lines and going to run the Powerstop Track Day pads. Think I am going to run Motul RBF 600 fluid, but open for other recommendations.

I do daily drive my car currently and plan on running a few more vents this year including Gridlife South.

My question is on this chassis, what are everyone's recommendations of things to be done, or things you found made a really big differenc?
Engine Oil? Trans And Diff Fluid?

Is the mishimoto oil cooler kit the only one available that is thermostatic?

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[Norm Peterson]

Tires and wheels.


Norm

 

[ForTehNguyen]

good tires and square tire setup to neutralize it away from understeer

 

[AlbertD]

I'd also start out with tires and wheels, then some camber plates to add more lateral grip up front. The car will under steer at the limit.

 

[Brooks_Church]

Anyone done oil cooler setups besides Mishimoto? Still stalking the rear diff overheating thread and looks like fluid helps out a lot with that.

 

[F0J]

I think the only consensus for casual track duty is tires.

Personally, I'm doing data acquisition right now. Then I'll move onto safety bits. Then I'll go broke doubling down on brakes.

The stock chassis is definitely a little loose and fuzzy (esp. turn in) but with careful inputs, it has a lot to offer.

Endurance wise it all depends on how and where you drive it. You could drive the crap out of the engine until it blows and then rebuild it and the fuel + oil systems.

My gut feeling on the clutch failures is heat soak. I'm not sure if anyone has sorted that out yet.

 

[Grintch]

If you drive it hard enough, you will need more camber to keep from killing the tires.

Before my first track day I had new wider wheels & tires and the Track Pack suspension.

After my first track day (where I blistered my right front):
Camber plates
Jacking rails
Square wheel & tire package
Harry's lap timer

 

[Norm Peterson]

The stock chassis is definitely a little loose and fuzzy (esp. turn in)

Wider wheels will help here.


Norm

 

[wildcatgoal]

See my build log, very happy with everything.

I have used the Powerstop Track Day pads - they are surprisingly good, even at Road Atlanta. I do have brake cooling ducts but I never had fade anyway, perhaps because I'm usually fairly easy on brakes. DO NOT use these on the street - the dust will NOT come off the wheel if you wait but a couple days to clean them. My RAYS wheels are pretty much a different color forever now unless I find a way (and the time) to sit down and scrub these with some kind of fancy cleaner. I am going with G-LOC R12-front / R10-rear pads going forward and the material used is much easier to clean from the wheels than what is in Powerstop pads (ask OPMustang).

I use Ravenol R325+ brake fluid and so far have been very happy with it.

I prefer how this car handles with a square tire/wheel setup. I got a bunch of understeer push with staggered setups which forced me to drive more smoothly, but I could not throttle steer if needed, which is something I'm not awful at so I like to use it. I'm awful at many other driving fundamentals, though (i.e., my poor clutch). ;)

I use BG transmission and differential fluids (the 140 weight) from OPMustang.com. At AMP, with the stock fluid and a 90 weight aftermarket fluid, I got the diff temp warning. After the 140 fluid I never got the warning again at that track. At Road Atlanta, which is way higher speed, I get the diff temp warning even with the best of fluid if I'm going as hard as I can (i.e., chasing Z06 and eventually passed it... but then... diff warning). I will be installing the same diff cooler setup that the Steeda #20 race car uses or whatever OPMustang.com comes up with if it is a complete package.

I do have a Mishi oil cooler but I haven't installed it yet. I don't have oil temp issues per say. I use Liqui Moly 5w40 for track duty and, since I don't drive the car much on the street anymore, I use it on the street now (until winter comes).

For tires, I keep wanting to try RE-11s. RE71s are great, but they won't last as long. I have been tracking all year with Conti DW 285/35-19 tires and they've been nice for helping me develop the right skills (hopefully I have...) but they aren't a tire I'd want to ever buy again for a car that is tracked (they're better suited to an AMG MB or something that goes fast and needs grip but isn't going to rip through turns). Great rain tire - I blow by people in the rain when it happens with those tires. Anywho, I went and got me some Conti Extremecontact Sports to replace them (vs. the new Michelin tire, which was $400 more for a set). I expect them to be much better just on shear contact patch on the ground vs. the Conti DWs (which have huge wide grooves).

Anywho... I will see you at Gridlife South!

 

[ForTehNguyen]

BMR rear IRS lockout and diff inserts if you havent done that, stablized the rear end a lot.

 

[Competition Orange]

Don't expect Gloc pads to be any better if you wait to wash them...

 

[Competition Orange]

OP, I question your pad and spring choice if you are as experienced as you state.

 

[Brooks_Church]

OP, I question your pad and spring choice if you are as experienced as you state.

The spring choice comes with a package I am getting at the end of the month. I am testing out the pads for a company and giving them feedback. My car isn't a full blown track car. It's my daily street car that I have fun with at the track. Never push above 80%.

Now if I were to build a track car it would be a much different setup.

 

[Brooks_Church]

See my build log, very happy with everything.

I have used the Powerstop Track Day pads - they are surprisingly good, even at Road Atlanta. I do have brake cooling ducts but I never had fade anyway, perhaps because I'm usually fairly easy on brakes. DO NOT use these on the street - the dust will NOT come off the wheel if you wait but a couple days to clean them. My RAYS wheels are pretty much a different color forever now unless I find a way (and the time) to sit down and scrub these with some kind of fancy cleaner. I am going with G-LOC R12-front / R10-rear pads going forward and the material used is much easier to clean from the wheels than what is in Powerstop pads (ask OPMustang).

I use Ravenol R325+ brake fluid and so far have been very happy with it.

I prefer how this car handles with a square tire/wheel setup. I got a bunch of understeer push with staggered setups which forced me to drive more smoothly, but I could not throttle steer if needed, which is something I'm not awful at so I like to use it. I'm awful at many other driving fundamentals, though (i.e., my poor clutch). ;)

I use BG transmission and differential fluids (the 140 weight) from OPMustang.com. At AMP, with the stock fluid and a 90 weight aftermarket fluid, I got the diff temp warning. After the 140 fluid I never got the warning again at that track. At Road Atlanta, which is way higher speed, I get the diff temp warning even with the best of fluid if I'm going as hard as I can (i.e., chasing Z06 and eventually passed it... but then... diff warning). I will be installing the same diff cooler setup that the Steeda #20 race car uses or whatever OPMustang.com comes up with if it is a complete package.

I do have a Mishi oil cooler but I haven't installed it yet. I don't have oil temp issues per say. I use Liqui Moly 5w40 for track duty and, since I don't drive the car much on the street anymore, I use it on the street now (until winter comes).

For tires, I keep wanting to try RE-11s. RE71s are great, but they won't last as long. I have been tracking all year with Conti DW 285/35-19 tires and they've been nice for helping me develop the right skills (hopefully I have...) but they aren't a tire I'd want to ever buy again for a car that is tracked (they're better suited to an AMG MB or something that goes fast and needs grip but isn't going to rip through turns). Great rain tire - I blow by people in the rain when it happens with those tires. Anywho, I went and got me some Conti Extremecontact Sports to replace them (vs. the new Michelin tire, which was $400 more for a set). I expect them to be much better just on shear contact patch on the ground vs. the Conti DWs (which have huge wide grooves).

Anywho... I will see you at Gridlife South!

Looking forward to see you there as well!

Thanks for the good info. I was really debating on which fluid to run in the diff and trans and think that helps a lot.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I'm running Redline 75w140 gear oil in the diff and have yet to see the rear diff heat warning (but then I didn't get the warning with the factory oil either). I also added some heat wrap around the exhaust pipes where they go around the diff to help manage the heat down there.

I'm running the BG syncro shift II transmission oil, but honestly I didn't notice much of a difference over the stock transmission oil. The BG stuff works fine, but I'd call it completely optional.

Square tires, camber plates for sure... and some way to hold you securely in your seat.

Stock PP swaybar endlinks bend pretty easily, although not usually enough to be detected from the driver's seat.

You can overdrive the stock brake pads, but usually only on tracks that are tougher than average on brakes. If you're advanced group, brake pads are a good idea.

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