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Livernois Motorsports

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With the evenflo 160 I saw 205-217 with half your Hp and 30 degree weather.
170 I am 185-190 max.

So, tell me whats the big difference? Coolant ratios? Bad TStats?
Ok, let's step back and look at this more from a basic logic standpoint.

If a thermostat opens sooner, it allows coolant to flow sooner, cooling the engine sooner.

As much as it seems people are wanting there to be some magic to this, there simply isn't. It's basic, and mechanically proven.

So, if a higher temp rated thermostat is cooling to a lower temp, it isn't some magic. it means it's letting water through before it's designed temperature. is it a larger bypass? improper seal? is it by design? mistake?

We don't know, as we do not make the other one. But ours is engineered to operate exactly how it is, to get the CHT right where it's supposed to be to make the engine happy.

So often we find that people that report higher temps did not burp the system correctly, and as we sit and think about this logically, if this is because ours cycle like the factory stat (which is also tricky to burp) then it makes more and more sense that the other makes of thermostats are allowing more water to flow while the thermostat is closed.

this is not a positive. If the only goal was to drop it as low as it could go, we would be selling water restrictions rather than thermostats. Instead the goal is to get the operating temps to a happier place than stock.

We spent a lot of time developing and selecting what we felt was the best for the engine. By installing, revising, testing, validating, and proving it out. Just like we do when we are making any product. Being an OEM supplier, that is what we do. Our products are designed to work how they need to, factoring in durability, reliability, and power in it's entirety.

So, again, just think about what people are saying. If our thermostat is open sooner, but has a higher CHT, then the only possibility is that the other thermostat is flowing water before it opens. If so, you now have less precise control over things since you are allowing leakage contribute to temperature control as opposed to the thermostat working as intended, by cycling open with increases in temperature, and closed with decreases.
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When My first 160 was installed it done by Tasca Mod shop with a vacuum pump, so how could it have not been burped?
I had 6 months of temps like this. I tested it in a pot on the stove and it opened at 160, maybe had some defect.
 

gsxr1300

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"A hot-side thermostat can function in a cold-side setup to a large degree but there are some drawbacks: When the thermostat opens some of the chilled coolant will mix in and expose the heat motor to cooler temps then it should be seeing to operate properly. Cooler temps then force the thermostat to start closing prematurely and once this happens, the hot bypass coolant will then start to make it open back up... and the cycle repeats. Another issue is the thermostat will always struggle to stay fully open because as soon as the bypass is completely shut off, the heat motor will no longer be exposed to hot coolant, forcing it to close again. The LMS/Even Flo thermostat attempts to address this by placing 4 holes in the bypass valve but then you always have a good amount of coolant recirculating through the bypass instead of being directed through the radiator as it should be."

Doesnt this explain why it may run hotter?
 

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What are you guys seeing for CHT once you've swapped over? I spent the last few days watching my temps and while driving the hover around 196-201, and this is on a stock t-stat. I'm still lost as to how a lower temp t-stat helps make more power? Nobody races a cold engine so how does having your fluid flow at 160 make any more power than 170 or 180 if normal operating temps are 200'ish?
 

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What are you guys seeing for CHT once you've swapped over? I spent the last few days watching my temps and while driving the hover around 196-201, and this is on a stock t-stat. I'm still lost as to how a lower temp t-stat helps make more power? Nobody races a cold engine so how does having your fluid flow at 160 make any more power than 170 or 180 if normal operating temps are 200'ish?
It gets hotter when you're beating on it, it can pull timing which lowers your power output, making the car slower.
 

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That's what I'm failing to understand, the t-stat is already open at 200 degrees so the only thing I can see affecting temps is the radiator or a higher pressure system. How does having a t-stat open even more below normal operating temps affect anything once it's at normal?
 

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That's what I'm failing to understand, the t-stat is already open at 200 degrees so the only thing I can see affecting temps is the radiator or a higher pressure system. How does having a t-stat open even more below normal operating temps affect anything once it's at normal?
It starts cooling it down sooner to keep it from getting that high. You're over thinking this a lot.
 

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Think of it as at 160° or 170° depending on what T stat one has, it opens and let's the hot water out of engine to radiator and new cooler fluid fills the engine.

Lather, rinse and repeat.
 

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Think of it as at 160° or 170° depending on what T stat one has, it opens and let's the hot water out of engine to radiator and new cooler fluid fills the engine.

Lather, rinse and repeat.
No I get that, but as I said earlier, if the fluid cycling out of the engine is already above the temp of the thermostat, isn't the thermostat already open and cycling fluid? So as its being explained the only time the tstat closes is when the fluid coming out of the engine is below 160 or 170 (depending on brand)

Isn't cylinder head temp the ideal number to maintain here? I've seen folks posting they are getting high 190s with the newer thermostats but I'm seeing those numbers on stock so it's not making any sense to me. Since the thermostat sits between the engine and radiator the temp setting of the thermostat shouldn't make any difference when the motor at operating temp. If the temp cycles below that setting then it's job is to let the motor get up to optimum op temp.

So I ask again, how does a 160 or 170 thermostat make more power than a 180 one? I've yet to see that explained.
 

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It starts cooling it down sooner to keep it from getting that high. You're over thinking this a lot.
The radiator is responsible for maintaining the fluid temp, the thermostat just allows that fluid to travel to the rad. That's not overthinking it, that's system knowledge.
 

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At the risk of being another ignorant bastrd in this thread, I am going to ask my questions anyway.

Installed my thermostat today which is the EF 160. It was free so i said why not. After installing it I top it off with the 50/50 Prestone Mix. I tried to burp the system as much as I could(which im not even sure i did properly)

Turn the car on and went for a cruise. temps were initially 185-195 city.
when i hit a light temps creeped up to 200+ would go back down while going through gears.

when i left for work tonight hwy cruising the temps went up steady to 216 degrees... cools down when I let off. I understand that th engine produces more heat when working.

Just wanted to know, if this is normal?

I have a tuned car, do i need to contact lund for adjustments?

I just read from 1 - 14 pages. i know some have mentioned tuning for the fans to come on sooner.

Thanks all and apologies for the ignorance. im here to learn as well
 

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At the risk of being another ignorant bastrd in this thread, I am going to ask my questions anyway.

Installed my thermostat today which is the EF 160. It was free so i said why not. After installing it I top it off with the 50/50 Prestone Mix. I tried to burp the system as much as I could(which im not even sure i did properly)

Turn the car on and went for a cruise. temps were initially 185-195 city.
when i hit a light temps creeped up to 200+ would go back down while going through gears.

when i left for work tonight hwy cruising the temps went up steady to 216 degrees... cools down when I let off. I understand that th engine produces more heat when working.

Just wanted to know, if this is normal?

I have a tuned car, do i need to contact lund for adjustments?

I just read from 1 - 14 pages. i know some have mentioned tuning for the fans to come on sooner.

Thanks all and apologies for the ignorance. im here to learn as well

The numbers you mention are par for the course for the EvenFlow T stat.

You could contact Lund but I'm willing to bet your tune is setup for proper fan control and what your seeing is normal for the T stat you have.
 

D3adch1ld

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Wow, I see people are really going crazy over the T-Stat and so on. Properly done, my 170° stat and a Lund tune has my car running 10-12° lower than the car used to with the OEM stat. I also get more repeatable power back to back when punching the car after heavy traffic. Really no magic or crazy science, just a little less heat at the engine at the given conditions. Yes some times when it's 90 outside and I'm not moving, it can creep up to 203-205 at the heads, but it used to get to 215+ in the same conditions. Now, in lower temps my car keeps around 190 at the heads all the time

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gsxr1300

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read post #243
 

gsxr1300

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Wow, I see people are really going crazy over the T-Stat and so on. Properly done, my 170° stat and a Lund tune has my car running 10-12° lower than the car used to with the OEM stat. I also get more repeatable power back to back when punching the car after heavy traffic. Really no magic or crazy science, just a little less heat at the engine at the given conditions. Yes some times when it's 90 outside and I'm not moving, it can creep up to 203-205 at the heads, but it used to get to 215+ in the same conditions. Now, in lower temps my car keeps around 190 at the heads all the time

Sent from my SM-G928T using Tapatalk

because you have the 170
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