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Thermostat question

mustangflanagan

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I emailed Lund he said it might possibly be a air bubble. Asked if I bleed it right. Lets see take cap off fill up let engine reach operating temp with heater on. Add fluid if needed. What I did noticed it blew cold air for like forever it didn't start to get warm until I moved the car.
 

Knight5.0

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i had a 170 in my 2011 and it worked great!! My 170 for my 2016 is on its way from Lethal now! :headbang:
 

Roki187

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mustangflanagan

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Lund got back to me and I quote "I usually tell people if they want cooler temps to buy a 170. That is the only benefit really"
 

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Evolvd

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That seems to be the biggest thing people hang their hats on is "cooler CHT" with the assumption that it allows the ECU to advance timing or some other side effect. I haven't seen anyone do any real testing to prove this...but many people with argue it to death.
 

Higgs Boson

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That seems to be the biggest thing people hang their hats on is "cooler CHT" with the assumption that it allows the ECU to advance timing or some other side effect. I haven't seen anyone do any real testing to prove this...but many people with argue it to death.
What kind of testing do you want to see? You sound a little inexperienced....?
 

Evolvd

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You're correct, I've never replaced a thermostat with the intention of gaining advanced timing. I've only replaced them because they were defective.

Simplest way I could think to test it, do a data log and see how timing is affected between CHT at WOT. They may be other ways but that's the best I can think of.
 

Ramen

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You're correct, I've never replaced a thermostat with the intention of gaining advanced timing. I've only replaced them because they were defective.

Simplest way I could think to test it, do a data log and see how timing is affected between CHT at WOT. They may be other ways but that's the best I can think of.
I think most of the recent testing has been done by people sitting in traffic. :D
 

Evolvd

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LOL yeah I've clearly read that people using the 170 see lower temps than those with the 160. However, I'm curious as to if it really affects timing. It takes a pretty large change in intake temps to cause the ECU to even pull 1 degree of timing.
 

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Knight5.0

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0fce36176ddddd6418597c930a39d343.webp
. Yeah buddy!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

sigintel

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What thermostat are you running?

I have seen as high as 197 when driving hard.
What thermostat are you running?
There are several 160F:
Duralast (possibly Motorad)
Motorad labeled (shipped in Whipple kits)
EvenFlo
??possibly others??
Do you have any pictures of your Thermostat?
Thanks..
Maybe a supplier switched mfgs and some are getting good or bad product from same supplier?
 

sigintel

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http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37575&page=17

^^^ The prove that the 160 isn't as good as the Reische 170 is in this thread. Try searching before running your mouth.
Lol. Go easy on the guy.
I do agree that it is ridiculous the 160 marked tstats are not opening fast enough and under performing the 170 rated high flow curve Reische.

Lol on the air in system! I was hoping that air was my problem. Thats an easy fix but nah, tstats just not performing as hoped.
 

kris5597

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So what is the point to swapping out the thermostat?

Does it make more power having the ECTs cooler? Does anyone have proof if this is the case? If this is so, why didn't ford do this from the factory???

In many cases, on other engines, I have seen when engine temperatures do not reach a certain temperature, the engine will not perform as it should. Engines make heat, heat turns into power, if it the temperature is not high enough, performance can suffer. And I am talking about ECTs need to be in the 200-205 range. I have a PP car with the Ford larger radiator, and this may affect my results, but my cylinder head temps stay around the low 200s, highest i've seen is around 215-220, and that's sitting in traffic in crap Louisiana heat.

If someone has valid information to answer my questions, by all means, enlighten me.

Kris
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