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The Lockout struggle is real

paulm1

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Ok..After some nice weather lately . I’m finally able to drive my new to me 15’ Gt and spirited shifts into 3/4 are hard and sometimes won’t even go till I let off some.

Changed the fluid recently with motul multi dctf

What should I do next/first to help this as much as I can? Shifter? Bushing?

77k mile mt82

thanks
Had this happen to me at my first track day. after 2 laps the 2-3 just wouldn't go was missing shifts, unless I really slowed down the the shifts. If anyone has solved it I sure would like to know how. Did the BG fluid swap and the whiteline bushing already.
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NGOT8R

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I don’t think there is any solving it. I didn’t think this was an issue with my car before I took it to the drag strip. The few times I had ran it up to 7500 rpm during data logging for tuning purposes, there hadn’t been any lockout problems, but the minute I put the car on the strip, I experienced it several times.

Note: My car has everything that I know of to take slop out of the drivetrsin, prevent wheel hop and lockout.

- Boomba Racing Transmission Mount (with black bushings)
- Steeda Tri-Ax Race Shifter (with stiff springs)
- Steeda Clutch Spring and Perch
- Steeda Adjustsble Polyurethane Motor Mounts
- Steeda Differential Bushing Kit (with black bushings and Through Bolt Kit)
- Steeda Stop the Hop Kit
- Steeda Differential Bracket
- Steeda Subframe Alignment Kit
- Steeda subframe Bushing Supoort Kit
- Steeda Adustable Camber Arms
- Steeda Adjustable Toe Link Kit
- Ford Performance Half Shafts
- BG Synchro Shift II

I was thinking that a better clutch would be the ticket, but I‘ve heard of people with better clutches still having lockout troubles. It may just boil down to making slower shifts to alleviate this issue.
 
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Thinking of trying one of the bushings like mount bushings and replacing the factory shifter with the Mgw mounted strut to the tranny

But then I drive it again, and I can hear the TOB/slave getting noisier and thinking that and stock clutch at 78k might be getting low on life left..

Which opens up a an of worms , what clutch, surface or replace flywheel.etc

@NGOT8R what clutch?
 

NGOT8R

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Thinking of trying one of the bushings like mount bushings and replacing the factory shifter with the Mgw mounted strut to the tranny

But then I drive it again, and I can hear the TOB/slave getting noisier and thinking that and stock clutch at 78k might be getting low on life left..

Which opens up a an of worms , what clutch, surface or replace flywheel.etc

@NGOT8R what clutch?
I went with the RAM Pro Street Clutch. I haven’t found anyone else running one in their Coyote, but it looks like it should be a pretty good clutch. I ordered it a week ago, but have no idea when it will be built or shipped. No biggie though, because I’m going to be rebuilding my tranny anyways, so I have time to spare.

 

NGOT8R

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Thinking of trying one of the bushings like mount bushings and replacing the factory shifter with the Mgw mounted strut to the tranny
I had the Whiteline transmission mount bushing insert in mine for over 5K miles, along with the shifter and then I switched to the Boomba mount which is much more solid. It is frustrating as hell to get locked out of gears.
 

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paulm1

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I had the Whiteline transmission mount bushing insert in mine for over 5K miles, along with the shifter and then I switched to the Boomba mount which is much more solid. It is frustrating as hell to get locked out of gears.
Did the boomba mount cut down on the lockout frequency?
 

NGOT8R

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Did the boomba mount cut down on the lockout frequency?
I really can’t say, because I put it in right before going to the drag strip for the first time. I would estimate that about 5 of the 10 passes at the strip resulted in lockouts. I had never experienced it on the street before that. My car only has 5900 miles on it too.
 
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NGOT8R

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Auto swap, only way to completely get rid of the issue.
I agree, but the trade off would be eliminating the fun of shifting gears manually. Auto guys sure can get after it though and I tip
my hat to them for that
 

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paulm1

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I don’t think there is any solving it. I didn’t think this was an issue with my car before I took it to the drag strip. The few times I had ran it up to 7500 rpm during data logging for tuning purposes, there hadn’t been any lockout problems, but the minute I put the car on the strip, I experienced it several times.

Note: My car has everything that I know of to take slop out of the drivetrsin, prevent wheel hop and lockout.

- Boomba Racing Transmission Mount (with black bushings)
- Steeda Tri-Ax Race Shifter (with stiff springs)
- Steeda Clutch Spring and Perch
- Steeda Adjustsble Polyurethane Motor Mounts
- Steeda Differential Bushing Kit (with black bushings and Through Bolt Kit)
- Steeda Stop the Hop Kit
- Steeda Differential Bracket
- Steeda Subframe Alignment Kit
- Steeda subframe Bushing Supoort Kit
- Steeda Adustable Camber Arms
- Steeda Adjustable Toe Link Kit
- Ford Performance Half Shafts
- BG Synchro Shift II

I was thinking that a better clutch would be the ticket, but I‘ve heard of people with better clutches still having lockout troubles. It may just boil down to making slower shifts to alleviate this issue.
Just curious, did you upgrade the clutch hydraulic line? From my reading and research it seems that the plastic line can cause a slow response from pedal engagement to the throwout bearing, especially when hot. And i got mine plenty hot when i cooked the brake fluid. Another design flaw imo. Brake fluid reservoir also does double duty as clutch reservoir. Im gonna try to upgrade the line before the next track day. Will report back.
 

NGOT8R

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Just curious, did you upgrade the clutch hydraulic line? From my reading and research it seems that the plastic line can cause a slow response from pedal engagement to the throwout bearing, especially when hot. And i got mine plenty hot when i cooked the brake fluid. Another design flaw imo. Brake fluid reservoir also does double duty as clutch reservoir. Im gonna try to upgrade the line before the next track day. Will report back.
I sure did. I had the McLeod stainless steel braided line on the car up until I installed my Hitmaster Hydraulic Clutch Hit Control System. I had to order 163” of custom hydraulic lines in order to install that system. Here’s the link to that install.

Improper adjustment of this system is what led to my burned up clutch btw.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...mt82-transmissions.163126/page-2#post-3447598
 

NGOT8R

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I was well aware of all the reported issues with the MT82 transmission, as well as breakage of other drivetrain components, so I went all out and installed everything that I could find to improve the drivetrain. I’m praying that I finally get everything right this time around with the tranny rebuild and new clutch.
 

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I don’t think there is any solving it. I didn’t think this was an issue with my car before I took it to the drag strip. The few times I had ran it up to 7500 rpm during data logging for tuning purposes, there hadn’t been any lockout problems, but the minute I put the car on the strip, I experienced it several times.
I really can’t say, because I put it in right before going to the drag strip for the first time. I would estimate that about 5 of the 10 passes at the strip resulted in lockouts. I had never experienced it on the street before that. My car only has 5900 miles on it too.
Just a thought - what's the box temp when at the strip compared to running on the street ?

Other than spectating on the odd occasion I have no experience of the strip, but I can only think that the box temp would be comparatively low and therefore slower / notchier / stiffer / more likely to lock you out etc (maybe exacerbated by race day nerves ?)

My 2020 MT82D4 and my 9 years younger partner have a lot in common - both like being fully warmed up to guarantee maximum fun factor ... :giggle:

WD :like:
 
 




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