'test pipes' ?

[WildHorse]

So can one still purchase 2.5" ID 'test pipes' for the factory headers ? If so, where ? Thanks

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[NGOT8R]

So can one still purchase 2.5" ID 'test pipes' for the factory headers ? If so, where ? Thanks

You planning on going right off the factory headers with straight pipe WildHorse? Gonna be super loud! Any big gains expected from this mod?

 

[WildHorse]

You planning on going right off the factory headers with straight pipe WildHorse? Gonna be super loud! Any big gains expected from this mod?

Yeah. Right now I have gutted felines. So loud is relative haha. I have SLP Loudmouth II axle backs to keep it in check (love them btw). I want the gap between 1500 buck headers & factory headers to be less than 5-7 horses haha.

 

[NGOT8R]

Yeah. Right now I have gutted felines. So loud is relative haha. I have SLP Loudmouth II axle backs to keep it in check (love them btw). I want the gap between 1500 buck headers & factory headers to be less than 5-7 horses haha.

Gotcha. Have you considered welding 2.5 pipes to your existing cat pipes and then mate up to your x or h-pipe?

 

[K4fxd]

So can one still purchase 2.5" ID 'test pipes' for the factory headers ? If so, where ? Thanks

Not here in the States unless you can find someone who will custom fab.

 

[NotagainV2]

MAK cat delete pipes.

 

[WildHorse]

MAK cat delete pipes.

Negative. Unless somebody is selling some.

 

[GregO]

Source out some OEM takeoffs and cuddle up to a skilled GTAW thin wall welder / pipe fitter that understands how to backpurge.
I know a guy but geographic location is an issue.

 

[K4fxd]

Source out some OEM takeoffs and cuddle up to a skilled GTAW thin wall welder / pipe fitter that understands how to backpurge.

Then he is stuck with the 2 1/4 inch pipe.

 

[GregO]

Then he is stuck with the 2 1/4 inch pipe.

Everything’s a compromise when modding the OEM header.
I’m sure any forward thinking fab guy worth his salt can increase the collector diameter past 2.25” without it looking like a backwoods hack job.

 

[K4fxd]

You will still have the 2 1/4 inch choke point at the flange. Just start over with 2 1/2 inch pipe or 3 inch and fab it from scratch.

 

[GregO]

You will still have the 2 1/4 inch choke point

Maybe @WildHorse is good with 2.25” ?
If it were me I’d ditch the OEM bolted flange and go V-band connection.

 

[WildHorse]

Maybe @WildHorse is good with 2.25” ?
If it were me I’d ditch the OEM bolted flange and go V-band connection.

Don't matter to me. Everything beyond the header will be 2.5" minimum anyways.

 

[Cory S]

We gutted out my destroyed Kooks cats pretty easily. You can also just weld in a piece of straight pipe as well.

 

[NGOT8R]

We gutted out my destroyed Kooks cats pretty easily. You can also just weld in a piece of straight pipe as well.

Why not replace with a straight section of pipe instead of gutting cats, or weld in a deflector like a lollipop (AKA Thunder Torque Inserts) which is said to make more power on motorcycles? Not sure if the same concept would work with car exhaust, but if one is experimenting, it may be worth a try. It’s basically like afixed active exhaust valve. You set it to the position you want and run it.

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