Test IRS Alignment

[shogun32]

Now I'm not sure if i should install them as apparently i maybe doing more harm than good...

not remotely true.

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[1TUFF_S550]

i just ran into this problem after putting some after market wheels on my car. I have the steeda alignment kit and my rear right tire pokes out more then the left side id say about a 1/4” or so. Lowered on cjpp springs. I see you said you only run the front 2, i will remove my rear ones and see how it sits after that. This is driving me crazy. Lol

The available slop is there to ensure proper assembly and alignment during production.

I've owned 4 of these cars, in which I have thoroughly gone over with a fine tooth comb. I string and align them myself.

I currently use only two front centering sleeves in my 2016. The reason is because the rears do not line up to my liking with the subframe perfectly centered.

It's not uncommon to have issues installing a rear subframe when it has been outfitted with solid bushings that have small ID openings that fit the bolts very snug - and its also not uncommon to see people asking for thread pitch so they can repair their threads from trying to install centering sleeves. It's also not uncommon to see people on this forum and social media almost weekly asking why one wheel pokes out back and the other doesn't - to only be told they need centering sleeves and them say "I have them"

My point was and is, you really do not "need" centering sleeves. In some cases they do more harm than good. Its just another part thats easy for companies to make and sell.

 

[fatbillybob]

poke and thread strips:

I have the whole steeda kit delrin sleeves and aluminum bushing support and for the diff too. I can't see how these cars mass produced on jigs would have holes drilled in different places to be 1/4" off? This is 2020 and manufacture tolerances are near perfect. I just placed my Steeda kit a few weeks ago. It came out perfect no poke on one side. My car is 2019. Is it at all possible that there are installation errors? I had zero issue with bolts threading back either. I work on a lift so I can evenly and squarely lift the subframe up and down. I can press the subframe up against the chassis so that the bolts thread easy and I'm not using the bolts to pull the subframe up home. Ford is really cheap. They don't need an inch of slop for the subframe but there it is. The chassis metal is so cheap that when you pull the bolts out there are metal filings on them. So maybe those drilled holes are all over the place? Anyway, I blew out the holes with compressed air and cleaned the bolts before reassembly to prevent galling of the threads which can cause thread strip and failure to seat and failure to achieve proper torque spec. I gave each bolt a little tap with a hammer because the bolts have a tapered nose. That helps to locate the bolt to chassis threads before you start to screw the bolt in. I could almost start each bolt by hand using light pressure on my wrench trying to be mindful of the thread path. Once I got passive threading I just screwed the bolts in like doing lugnuts on my wheel.

Was my alignment now off? Yes! Changing the position of the subframe throws off your thrust. I was about 1/4" of thrust from rear wheel to front axle. You correct this at the toe link. I moved the toe link cam about the width of a sharpie mark and that was all I need to zero the thrust. As a racer I do my own alignments and corner balancing of the the car. It is really easy to align with very simple tools (camber plates, laser pointer/level, a few rulers and a pair of tape measures. I don't use strings because honestly they add to complications and errors in my hands.

 

[NightmareMoon]

i just ran into this problem after putting some after market wheels on my car. I have the steeda alignment kit and my rear right tire pokes out more then the left side id say about a 1/4” or so. Lowered on cjpp springs. I see you said you only run the front 2, i will remove my rear ones and see how it sits after that. This is driving me crazy. Lol

You can get asymmetrical poke if your camber OR subframe or off. You can actually have even poke if your subframe and camber are both a little off in opposite directions. Rear Camber is a more common variable than subframe alignment. Almost nobody's rear camber is perfectly even, its very hard to achieve that with stock parts.

 

[Nate_V8]

So verdict is what? use them or don't use them or only use half of them?

 

[fatbillybob]

I think you have to use them to gain the intended purpose but realize every modification brings new challenges. You touch one thing are you ready to correct the other thing? In this case you really need to align the car after you mess with the subframe position. My car is new like 500miles. Perhaps that's why my subframe was near perfect straight? So when I put the align kit in it was near perfect. I had a small thrust adjustment and thats it.

 

[1TUFF_S550]

I just found my alignment sheet and lets just say i probably could have done a better job myself. Rear left is -2.5 right rear is -1.7 toe is at .11 both sides.

You can get asymmetrical poke if your camber OR subframe or off. You can actually have even poke if your subframe and camber are both a little off in opposite directions. Rear Camber is a more common variable than subframe alignment. Almost nobody's rear camber is perfectly even, its very hard to achieve that with stock parts.

 

[KellTrac]

I just found my alignment sheet and lets just say i probably could have done a better job myself. Rear left is -2.5 right rear is -1.7 toe is at .11 both sides.

Toe is good. Camber is no bueno.

I always adjust my alignments to have them match side to side. This can easily be done with factory components and in no way requires aftermarket parts......

Set the Camber at -1.25 each side. Toe at .10 to .13 in per side and shoot for 0.00 thrust angle.

That should do the trick. If not, then you are unfortunately part of a few that have the issue of "centering" your IRS and it not matching your body panels.

Good luck!

 

[Nate_V8]

So if I put them in then be ready to take it to a ford dealer for an alignment? I'm not in a position to do an alignment myself

 

[1TUFF_S550]

what would you recommend for the front? I will be throwing on some camber bolts and would like to have the fronts sit more on the “ flush” side to the fender. Car is 99% street driving and i make it to the 1320 maybe 3-4 times during the year.

Toe is good. Camber is no bueno.

I always adjust my alignments to have them match side to side. This can easily be done with factory components and in no way requires aftermarket parts......

Set the Camber at -1.25 each side. Toe at .10 to .13 in per side and shoot for 0.00 thrust angle.

That should do the trick. If not, then you are unfortunately part of a few that have the issue of "centering" your IRS and it not matching your body panels.

Good luck!

 

[fatbillybob]

For street just do the stock pp1 settings

 

[Nate_V8]

I'm still trying to figure out if I should install them or not. Should I only install them if the IRS is not equal side to side?

 

[Bluemustang]

So if I put them in then be ready to take it to a ford dealer for an alignment? I'm not in a position to do an alignment myself

Yes if you've moved the subframe you will 100% need an alignment.

 

[Nate_V8]

Yes if you've moved the subframe you will 100% need an alignment.

some people mentioned it only moved forward, what does one do for that?

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