Tension Links

[Nuked]

How much play side to side should there be in the Tension link on the bearing side where it bolts to the subframe? I have been trying to chase down a humming sound for the past year and starting to run out of ideas. Yesterday I pulled the passenger side strut off and took it apart and reassembled (shop that did it did not get the spring seated right). While strut was out I noticed there was a lot of play in the front tension arm bushing. Everything on the knuckle side is tight (both control arm ball joints and tie rod end).

Sponsored

 

[Roadway 5.0]

There certainly should not be “a lot” of play. If the play is in the bushing itself it may be time to replace. If the play is at the joint, then torque the bolt to spec.

 

[Jaymar]

There shouldn't be any side to side play but one of them is a huge bushing that has some play with resistance and the other arm is a spherical bearing that easily rotates around its own axis with the movement afforded by the ball joint. I can't remember which arm has which but I give them a good shake every season when I change my tires out and the first time I shook the bearing unit it seemed alarming until I figured it out.

 

[Nuked]

The arm that goes from the knuckle to the subframe vertically (under strut) feel ok, and were replaced last year. They are the Steeda roll correction arms. The one I was referring to are the ones that go to the front of the car with the big bushing in it. Those are the originals. With the strut removed I could move that one side to side pretty easily. I would say an easy 2" or so.

I have 2 noises. The first one is a humming noise, that is basically road noise. It is most certainly related to something that spins as you move, not engine dependent. If the pavement type changes the tone changes. If you hit a bump or oscillation in the road it changes. Gets louder with speed. I have replaced tires, had alignment and wheel balancing done, struts/shocks, springs, lower control arm and checked all of the wheel bearings. No change. The hum started after I had my headers installed by a shop (they dropped K-member to do it), and gotten progressively louder over time.

The second noise is a clunk when you apply the brakes coming to a stop. Best way to describe is if your rolling to a stop and jab the brakes it will clunk. Like it is grabbing and there is some play somewhere. It only does it moving forward, nothing in reverse. This noise started when I had the shocks/struts/springs and roll center arms installed.

 

[Jaymar]

If the tension arm is disconnected from the knuckle it should have some swing side to side, that is the bushing compliance. The arm acts in tension/compression normally so you shouldn't have any play pushing/pulling on it. I tried drawing a picture but I ate too many crayons in art class so it wasn't helpful. Any way you could post a video of the suspect movement?

 

[Jaymar]

Here is my best effort, sorry. Green motion is OK, red motion is bad.

 

[Nuked]

Thanks @Jaymar . The movement is "green", no "red".

 

[Nuked]

To follow up:

Replaced the end links, tension links, and vertical links on both sides. Went with Mevotech OEM replacements w/ greaseable fittings. Passenger side ball joint on the tension link had a small amount of play in it, guessing this was my clunk as it is now fixed. All other parts appeared fine. Only thing I can think is the shop for whatever reason loosened the tension link and messed up the ball joint in doing so, as the noise didn't start until they worked on it. Everything came apart very easily. Humming still present, starting to think driveshaft or possibly rear diff bushings worn/torn. Will explore the back of the car next.

Sponsored