Suspension Mods for a Newbie?

[Boxxer]

I'm new here and have 2019 Mustang GT base with 301A. My first mustang and it's my daily driver and I don't think I can go back. I was coming from a Miata and miss cornering, spirited driving on the backroads with twisties. I don't have a place to install the parts myself so I figured I might as well as get these parts installed by a shop at one time, since they'll have to lower the subframe anyway.

Steeda minimum drop lowering springs
Steeda vertical links
Steeda subframe alignment & subframe bushings kit (or does BMR SCB766 & CB010 do the same thing?)
Steeda sway bar end links (front and rear)

I'll get a K-brace would be later down the road since that's an easy bolt-on. Sway bars would be even further down the road.

Not sure if getting Steeda subframe braces or BMR CB005 will help or be overkill for a street car.

But do you recommend the differential bushing or is that overkill? Anything that I should consider getting installed first? Any of the above not necessary for my needs?

Thanks!

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[moffetts]

Don't mess with the diff bushings unless you're going full race car.

 

[K4fxd]

The steeda parts will pleasantly surprise you with the amount of difference they make. I've driven a car with the BMR pieces and I prefer the Steeda system. It also stiffens the chassis.

You will want to add the front PP braces, that will also put a smile on your face.

If you want a FIRM ride go with Bilstein B6 shocks and struts, if you want a softer ride with control call Mike D at steeda and tell him what you want. I have that exact set up, car handles great but is a bit firm for me as a daily due to the B6's.

Or you can PM him here @SteedaTech

PP Strut Tower Brace kit + Cowl Extension + Lower K Brace Install Guide | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

 

[Boxxer]

Thanks for the replies!

Don't mess with the diff bushings unless you're going full race car.

Music to my ears!

You will want to add the front PP braces, that will also put a smile on your face.

I thought about the tower brace. Some say it tightens up the front end while others say it doesn't do that much but it still looks good and wouldn't hurt. I like it and I can install it easily out on the parking log. Just focused on those parts that need a bay and lift/jack stands since a shop will do the install.

 

[K4fxd]

You need the K braces, one on the bottom and one on top along with the cowl extension piece. Huge difference in chassis stiffness.

 

[tj@steeda]

The IRS Braces are fantastic for a streetcar - they firm the rear up & make driving more spirited.

By the way - most of these parts are either included in our Black Friday Sale or Doorbusters at www.steeda.com

You won't be disappointed in the Steeda suspension parts - Charles, if I can help assist with any further questions, shoot me a note at [email protected]

Have a happy Turkey day!

TJ

 

[Labradog]

I don't think you need the vertical links or sway bar end links, but I'll let the more experienced members chime in for that. If you are doing springs then I'd upgrade the dampers at the same time to either the Bilsteins that K4fxd suggested or the Ford Racing track kit. I would also get a set of camber plates. Even though the Steeda springs only drop the front 0.5", it's nice to be able to align it perfectly.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Camber plates help if you know what to do with them and are trying to go more aggressive with camber. Skip them if you wan to stay near stock or wouldn’t know what to do.

Skip the verticlal links and endlinks and put that money towards good shocks. Bilstein, Ford Performance Track shocks, Koni yellows or Steeda adjustables. Springs are needed to upgrade a base car, but shocks are even more critical.

 

[Labradog]

Camber plates help if you know what to do with them and are trying to go more aggressive with camber. Skip them if you wan to stay near stock or wouldn’t know what to do.

I have BMR's min drop springs and would like to dial in less camber and get it even on both sides. Wish I did camber plates at the same time as the shocks and springs.

 

[Flyhalf]

Hi
What's your goal? Why you want to change those parts?
Do you want just a more aggressive look ? Or do you " feel " somenthing in particular?
Alessandro

 

[Boxxer]

What's your goal? Why you want to change those parts?

I want to improve handling for twisties and spirited driving on curvy back roads and reduce wheel hop. I'm not going to track it. Before my Mustang, my daily was a '96 Miata. I made a big jump in torque, hp, and interior room but loss that tight handling. Don't get me wrong, giving it up for the Coyote's growl was well worth it..

The main factors are: I have the extended warranty so I want to keep some of the suspension stock; time, want to be sure upgrades can be installed in one work day (I don't have a backup car and I go through withdrawal); and, budget, trying to keep it under $1K.

Camber plates help if you know what to do with them and are trying to go more aggressive with camber. Skip them if you wan to stay near stock or wouldn’t know what to do.

I think I won't get camber plates since you gave me two good reasons not to!

If you are doing springs then I'd upgrade the dampers at the same time to either the Bilsteins that K4fxd suggested or the Ford Racing track kit. I would also get a set of camber plates. Even though the Steeda springs only drop the front 0.5", it's nice to be able to align it perfectly.

Those are good suggestions but would upgrading the dampers be more appropriate for tracking instead of daily driving and the occasional weekend spirited driving?

The IRS Braces are fantastic for a streetcar - they firm the rear up & make driving more spirited.

Yes, I thought about getting a Stop the Hop kit since the subframe bushings, subframe alignment, and vertical links are part of the ultimate kit but I don't need the toe links, at least not yet. Braces are a maybe if budget allows getting a Stop the Hop kit.

I thought vertical links and sway bar links would help cornering. Upgrading the sway bar is down the road but are vertical links and sway bar end links worthwhile first mods to do or are their contribution to performance negligible? Now as a first time Mustang owner, I see a definite problem with the whole Mustang line . . . there's so many modification options to choose from!

 

[K4fxd]

The IRS braces, alignment dowels subframe inserts and vertical links will give you back most of the tightness you miss from the Miata.

Going with the PP K braces from Ford will tighten up the front of the car.

If you change springs you will absolutely need dampers. The stockers are barely able to control the stock springs.

 

[Flyhalf]

Here's what i would do.
Lower springs. I like the LINEAR one. Lime the BMR handling springs. Stiffer OEM style in the market.
Many after market are progressive (or dual rate) which i think are less precise.
Bmr Drop .75" all around. I paired down the road with FP shocks
Cradle lock out in the rear (i have bmr)
You need a little more camber in the front. Camber doesn't destroy tires(unless you daily a -4camber car). A wrong toe does. Be sure you do the allignment after springs installation
And honestly front sway bar. For my understanding you want a more precise and less rolling car in turns. A thicker adjustable sway bar is what you need.
Links and other stuff really don't do a lot.
The only BUSHING i would do is. LCA bushing and front arm MONOBALL (opmustang.com offer many options)
So summarizing
1. Lower and stiffer linear springs
2. Front sway bar
3. Bushing : cradle lockout. LCA bushing. Front arm MONOBALL
4. Ford perf. Shocks.
Hope this help

 

[K4fxd]

Good advise except he does not have a PP car. The PP front braces are absolutely needed.

I prefer the steeda IRS braces due to steeda being chrome moly and it ties the IRS assembly to the unit body.

The Steeda min drop springs drop the car 1/2 inch and are 200 front 800 rear. Plenty for flat cornering on the street.

Steeda's spring with the B6's corner flat and handle transitions well with the stock sways.

Chassis first, then suspension. Without the PP braces the car flexes too much to get consistent results. Same in the rear. The IRS assembly moves around way too much and some kind of bracing is needed. I like steeda for reasons I stated above but BMR has a good following.

 

[Vicr]

Or just do it all. I did, handles like a slot car and NO wheel hop. After several track sessions I’ll decide if I need sway bars. And as someone pointed out about the differential bushings, maybe not for street use as there is some NVH at certain rpms but mine isn’t a daily driver. The biggest handling Mod I’ve done is trashing the POS Pirelli‘s and getting the Michelin Pilot Sport 4s’s.

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