Stock drive shaft limits?

[oktober]

I am installing a barton shifter and RST clutch next week, since Ill have the transmission down, I am wondering if I should replace the driveshaft? I am conservatively boosting it in the spring, ESS G3 115mm, hoping to break 700 to the wheel.

The one piece drive shafts seem to get mixed reviews. I figured I would get one while I had everything out and take it to a shop to double check its in balance, but then I thought what's the point if the stock can handle it. Maybe just a safety loop and call it a day? I understand less rotating mass, but I see a lot of people installing these and then ending up with serious vibrations, NVH, and I just don't know if its worth the hassle.

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[RNM]

Aftermarket driveshafts are hit or miss depending on the manufacturer. I personally have a carbon fiber driveshaft from qa1 and there was no increase in nvh but they are no longer being made. If I was in the market for one, I would look into gulf coast driveshafts. Stay away from DSS.

 

[oktober]

Aftermarket driveshafts are hit or miss depending on the manufacturer. I personally have a carbon fiber driveshaft from qa1 and there was no increase in nvh but they are no longer being made. If I was in the market for one, I would look into gulf coast driveshafts. Stay away from DSS.

Ok, I thought I was doing something wrong. I kept looking on QA1 site but couldnt find. Good to know.

 

[mtr5.0]

I was bummed out when I was going to order one from QA1 and found out they stopped making them. maybe give gulf coast driveshafts a shot, havnt heard any complaints from those.

 

[oktober]

I was bummed out when I was going to order one from QA1 and found out they stopped making them. maybe give gulf coast driveshafts a shot, havnt heard any complaints from those.

Appreciate the suggestion, I def will. I guess my original question still stands though, at what point is the stock driveshaft a liability?

 

[SnowFox]

If you're goal is 700hp at the wheels I'm not sure the juice is worth the squeeze on a new drive shaft (just an opinion) The stock DS though not ideal isn't bad. It can probably handle it and more. But if you launch like maniac with tons of traction you can bust it at 500hp.

You'll be far more likely to break your stock half shafts first. And even then that is slightly less of a problem with a centri Blower VS PD.

Like others have noted drive shafts are hit or miss. Unless you absolutely need one. I would just stay stock for now and reevaluate later after your done adding power.

 

[Zrussian13]

Street car or track car? My stock shafts have 116k miles on them. Been at 800 wheel hp for 60k miles now with no issues but its a street car. I'd definitely change them of i was going to track it and launch hard.

 

[Zrussian13]

Street car or track car? My stock shafts have 116k miles on them. Been at 800 wheel hp for 60k miles now with no issues but its a street car. I'd definitely change them of i was going to track it and launch hard.

Sorry just realized you said drive shaft not axles lol. My above comment still applies. Im still on the stock one but would upgrade of i was drag racing on the track.

 

[NGOT8R]

I run a Steeda 1 piece aluminum driveshaft in mine. I do agree that the factory shaft can handle 700 hp easily. The only upgrade that I’m aware of for it is a carrier bearing.

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai...sKaZmsqRAxWlSDABHXhxMScQwg8oAHoECAwQDQ&adurl=

 

[SheepDog]

Appreciate the suggestion, I def will. I guess my original question still stands though, at what point is the stock driveshaft a liability?

The question should be - Are you going to drag race it, with sticky tires? Launching on a prepped surface with slicks - I'd replace it

Street car with street tires- don't bother. The tires will break traction before the driveshaft lets go. Same with the CV axles. Much cheaper to replace as well if they do break

 

[DefaultDriver1]

I had the Steeda 1 piece made by Spicer. Way too much vibration. I was after the lighter weight more than anything. I have 745 whp from a VMP Odin. 95% plus street. No issues with the stock driveshaft. I had even flipped the Spicer line 180° to see if that would help and no dice.

 

[NGOT8R]

I had the Steeda 1 piece made by Spicer. Way too much vibration. I was after the lighter weight more than anything. I have 745 whp from a VMP Odin. 95% plus street. No issues with the stock driveshaft. I had even flipped the Spicer line 180° to see if that would help and no dice.

I’ve heard that a lot. I guess I got lucky on mine because it’s very smooth. I didn't have to clock it either.

 

[robvas]

I had the Steeda 1 piece made by Spicer. Way too much vibration. I was after the lighter weight more than anything. I have 745 whp from a VMP Odin. 95% plus street. No issues with the stock driveshaft. I had even flipped the Spicer line 180° to see if that would help and no dice.

The driveshafts don't vibrate because they aren't balanced. Did you check your angles at the trans and rear end?

 

[DefaultDriver1]

I have a 2021 GT Premium PP1 with magnetic shocks as well. which is 1/2 lower than a standard GT. 10 speed auto. Suspension mods are everything Steeda sells sitting on Dual rate springs. Which lowered it another 1/2 inch. I didn't check the angles but they're not extreme. Once I took the 1 piece out it drove rock solid no matter the speed. I was super disappointed the driveshaft didn't work out. I do have a driveline loop added. Angles were not brought up during the troubleshooting phase as something that could be the issue.

 

[John S]

I'd leave the stock driveshaft alone and spend your money on other upgrades. Lightweight one-piece driveshaft options with your manual transmission aren't as sensitive to vibration issues as the 10R80 but I doubt you'll notice any dynamic benefits over the heavier stock 2-piece driveshaft. I installed a perfectly balanced QA1 carbon fiber drivershaft on my son's GT w/10R80 and we couldn't solve a high speed vibration issue. My friend at Ford works in NVH and he explained the engineering issues with 10R80 balancing and vibration characteristics and going back to the OEM 2-piece driveshaft resolved the high speed vibration. (QA1 was great about accepting the return.) GT500 had a one-piece CF driveshaft but I think they use pricy CV joints at each end and there might have been some marketing influence involved? If you're concerned about a "sloppy" center support, there are upgrade kits with less compliant rubber options.

https://www.jxbperformance.com/prod...port-bearing-carrier-upgrade?rq= s550 mustang

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