Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[NGOT8R]

Thanks I’ll take a look. I did briefly but didn’t find them.

Yeah, that may/may not be an option, but I would suggest looking at the base model EcoBoost first to see what you can find. Whatever you do, be careful removing and reinstalling the A-pillar covers, as they can be damaged very easily taking them out and putting them back in. It’s a delicate act.

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[GTP]

Wanted to unplug the green center on my 2016 Gt premium 9 speakers... I've used the tooth method but as I was trying to get it out... the wire cutted !!! Can it stay as is or I'll need to weld / crimp to the small portion stuck into the connector?

If it stays disconnect, will I loose any option like telephone, ?? If I need to reconnect/weld, is it possible to disconnect all 3 connectors and bring the cables mush more in for of me??? I'm not a small guy and also a lefty...so that wasn't a pleasure to try to pry out the green connector!!

What happened to you is actually a good thing. I started the thread about disconnecting the center speaker. It sounds much better with that speaker off. So just leave it as is.

Also, the phone and navigation alerts still work as normal.

 

[Jackismydog]

What happened to you is actually a good thing. I started the thread about disconnecting the center speaker. It sounds much better with that speaker off. So just leave it as is.

Also, the phone and navigation alerts still work as normal.

Super Thanks! This week end this will be the factory EQ removal!

 

[GTP]

I know many advise to defeat the factory EQ, but I do not. I am an audio engineer, and all things considered, the stock door speakers sound okay. Change the fade to 80%+ front, disconnect the center, and then try the tone controls.

I have yet to see anyone present data about the sound with factory EQ or how it changes with it defeated. The B&O sound is too bass heavy and needs the bass turned way down. I started a thread about this too.

There is a lot more to audio than most realize and it is actually kinda complicated. Which is why I don't go into too much depth on this forum.

 

[Cafasco]

I don’t have a center speaker, but I read several posts that it sounds much better disconnected. However I have also read that it sounds even better when it’s replaced with a Polk DB speaker than disconnected. I’m guessing It’s 3.5”. Just thought I’d pass that along…

 

[GTP]

Okay, but you get a better stereo image with the center speaker off. Not to mention a big lack of distortion that it puts out.

When I drive alone I move the balance more to the right also. It equalizes both the balance (left right loudness) and the image.

 

[2016Gruv]

I'm also not convinced to turn off the factory EQ, whatever that is. As far as I know, no one has conclusive evidence how the sound is manipulated other than a presumption of a low cut filter for all speakers except the sub. If that's the case, it's actually a good thing. I also won't go into depth re audio because so much misinformation exists.

 

[Cafasco]

Well I turned it off on mine and the stereo sounds considerably better. I have the base stereo and the rear speaker had little bass. Turning off the eq for the rear speakers made a huge difference in the sound. It eliminated the bass cut off as per multiple threads here indicated. Now I just need to upgrade the speakers w amp and DSP. Again, it’s far better now, but it’s still lacking…a lot.

 

[Cathul]

Shutting off the EQ makes sense in a base 6-speaker car as they are run by deck power, but turning off the EQ makes almost no sense in an amplified 9- or 12-speaker system as the "EQ" is done in the amplifier and not in the variable line level output of the ACM. In the latter case if you change the amp for a DSP and aftermarket amplifiers there is no need for that afaik.

 

[Jackismydog]

On my side ( 9 speakers premium) , shutting off the EQ made a HUGE upgrade! Now I have bass and I can set a 22-23 instead of 30 and the sound is way louder. I'M not disapointed at all. This is for my opinion and do not want to discredit anyone.

 

[Cathul]

Yes, it makes it sound better if you don't put in another DSP or amplifier into the equation.
But if you ever plan to replace the stock amplifier then it's not necessary to shut of the EQ in a 9- or 12-speaker setup as the ACM is only putting out front left/right and rear left/right fullrange variable line output in this case. Not highpassed, not equalized not anything as all this is done in the stock amplifier in such setups as the Forscan settings regarding the EQ only change the high output from the amplifier in these setups.

But (!) don't ever make the mistake to use a line output converter in case you got a 9- or 12-speaker system, ever!

Why someone wants to convert a high output signal when he could use a variable line output signal for aftermarket amplification is beyond my imagination.

Why convert a crap signal, probably high passed and clipping at a given volume setting while he could use a non-clipping up to volume setting 30, unaltered and flat variable line signal?

Even if you "only" have a 6-speaker system and want to use an aftermarket setup it's just using Forscan and an OBD2 adapter to reprogram the ACM to put out variable line voltage for front/rear left and right to get rid of any eq, clipping or whatever.
Better spend the money of a line output converter into a DSP of some kind and have your ACM reprogammed.

There are T-harnesses for both non- and amplified systems available that go either directly beyond the ACM or at the stock amplifier connectors, and they are way cheaper than any LOC you could possibly get.

 

[Jackismydog]

Dear Cathul, After reading attentivly those 80 pages and also many other posts... you putted me out of my chair this morning!!!

I planned to add a sub to my stock system. ( Alpine 600watt amp+ Alpine 750W sub+ custom enclosure from Conceptenclosure for convertible ) . To do that I thought that buying LC2Ipro as plug and play ( https://www.cafr.ebay.ca/itm/124328722046?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 ) would be the solution.

According to your statement that would be a wrong move. So if i do not want to modify the existing OEM system and add a sub what would you please suggest? Thanks for your assistance!

 

[Cathul]

What kind of stock system? You didn't specify that?

6-speaker or 9-speaker?

If 6 speaker, grab signal for front speakers right after the ACM as every Alpine amplifier already has a LOC integrated and you want to keep your stock speakers without adding an additional 4 channel amplifier.

For this you need a T-harness like CARAV 12-240 or any other brand with the appropriate connectors (use the CARAV 12-240 pictures as reference), an additional relay (f.e. PAC-Audio TR4 or better TR-7) to transform the 6V amp-turn on to a 12V remote turn-on and solder in RCA extensions into the front speaker lines. Route RCA cable and remote turn on from the relay from front to back to your amp and set the amp to high-level in and set the crossover for the sub on the amplifier.

If 9-speaker system, the ACM is already putting out variable line output.
In this case you need a T-harness like above, an an additional relay (f.e. PAC-Audio TR-4 or better TR7) to transform the 6V amp turn-on to 12V and route the RCA cable and the remote turn on back to your amplifier. Turn the amp to low-level input and set crossover for the sub on the amplifier.

12-speaker would be possible eitherway except that you need an amplifier that has more input level on the high-input side than the Alpine, which is limited to 10V (which is fine if you grab the signal for front speakers as outlined above). You could then use the subwoofer amplified signal or better do the way as described for the 9-speaker system.

It's better to do it like the 9-speaker system as you get the clean, unaltered signal and are free to set your crossovers the way you like this way and are not limited to the lowpassed signal that Ford gives you.

Using a T-harness in an appropriate way gives you the most flexibility, especially if you grab the signal right behind the ACM. If you want to add something like a DSP and run your 6-speakers (stock or aftermarket speakers) with aftermarket amplification later on you don't have to pull the ACM ever again and have all the flexibility you can possibly want and it's simple plug'n'play without the need to cut or alter any of the stock wiring.

With a 6-speaker base system all you need to do to add a DSP is to reprogram your ACM to variable line output, with a 9- or 12-speaker system you don't need to do anything to your ACM.
In both cases you pull the RCAs and remote turn on from your sub amp and feed the DSP with those cables with a really good variable line output signal that is not clipping even at full tilt on the ACM.

Hope this answers your questions and gives you the reasoning why i will always say "ditch the line output converters, they are almost never needed these days if you have a better way to get a signal".

 

[Jackismydog]

My stang is a premium 9 speakers.

If I undestand well, you are saying no LC2i required. A T harness ( CARAV 12-240 ) a relay and simply route RCA wire to the trunk. is that ok ?

And the kit from plugnplaykits not a necessity https://www.cafr.ebay.ca/itm/124328722046?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 ?

 

[Cathul]

No, you don't need it.
Just look at the wiring diagram if available.
Your ACM is giving you front/rear left/right variable line output and audio enable in one connector C240A(at least if it's not an EU spec Mustang, in this case the audio enable is in the other connector, C240B).
So you just need to solder RCA breakouts to the line output for the front channels and a relay fed by the constant 12volt, the amp-turn on with 6 volt and ground and route RCA and remote turn on back to your amplifier, all in the T-harness of course, and you're good to go.
Or you could get the remote turn on from the harness in the trunk that is activating the backup camera, which is always active btw. as soon as the ignition is on. This would be 12Volt even so no need for a relay.

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