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Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Fix

Marin

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I thought I’d share this as I hadn’t read a clear solution/fix anywhere on the interballs

So I recently bought a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter (the bigger kit) to install on my 2016 GT (PP) the install all went smoothly but I quickly discovered that 1st gear was difficult to engage and 2nd almost impossible to get into.
After spending a few hours online checking to see if anyone had experienced the same issue I realised a lot of people had but the fix laid somewhere between Steeda and the end user, almost like it was being guarded as a trade secret or something.
So I then reached out to Steeda, who to my surprise responded within the hour (I’m in Australia) one of their engineers recommended that I should be sent out a replacement top cover of the newer revision (more on this shortly) as the top cover that came with my shifter kit seems to be of an earlier design (fixed reverse gate/stop)
This was all well and dandy until I mentioned that I bought the shifter new in box but from a marketplace seller, Steeda then dropped me like a bad habit with no further correspondence.
This left a bit of a bitter taste given the thousands I’ve spent on various other Steeda parts I’ve fitted to my car.

Anyhow, I took the shifter apart again only to realise there were rubbing marks on the black plastic reverse lockout sleeve where it had been rubbing against the reverse lockout gate/stop
This had clearly been happening during the the 1st and 2nd gear engagements indicating the diameter of the reverse collar was too large
So after measuring the travel of the shifter from the centreline in neutral, I realised the shifter needed approximately 2mm more travel to the left (drivers side for you LHD people)
So my solution was to use a dremel with a sanding wheel to create a flat spot on the collar as shown below in red
IMG_4658.jpeg


This completely fixed the issue, 1st and 2nd gears engage perfectly as the do the rest of the gears, this also seemed to fix a buzzing sound that came from the reverse lockout collar (I use the billet Steeda one) which used to happen at around 3k rpm in 1st and 2nd.

It looks like Steeda revised the top plate at some point as mine is the fixed type which is a single piece design as per below
IMG_4660.jpeg


This was re-designed to a steel adjustable bracket which I assume was needed to fix the issues myself and others have experienced with 1st and 2nd gear engagement


IMG_4659.jpeg


lessons learned; don’t assume parts will work as they should even if they’re made by a reputable company and if you buy Steeda parts from a private source, expect 0 backup from Steeda.
So keep this in mind before installing your shifter or at least before reinstalling the centre console trim etc
I hope this helps someone
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NGOT8R

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Great work on your part! You worked the problem and didn’t let the problem work you. It sure would have been nice for Steeda to step in and assist you, since it was an issue regarding their product. Are you using the stiff or soft springs?
 
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Marin

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Great work on your part! You worked the problem and didn’t let the problem work you. It sure would have been nice for Steeda to step in and assist you, since it was an issue regarding their product. Are you using the stiff or soft springs?
Thank you, it probably helps that I’m a Mechanical Design Engineer by trade but yeah a bit of guidance from Steeda would’ve been appreciated, i understand the warranty is only applicable to the original purchaser and I would’ve been more than happy to pay for the newer style top plate but to drop all communication came across as a bit unprofessional.
Ah well, all is good now..
I used the stiffer spring set btw
 
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NGOT8R

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I had to go back and look at mine from my install after seeing this post. Mine has been good to me. Hopefully it’ll continue to work well.

1722208938901-rw.jpg
 

tj@steeda

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I thought I’d share this as I hadn’t read a clear solution/fix anywhere on the interballs

So I recently bought a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter (the bigger kit) to install on my 2016 GT (PP) the install all went smoothly but I quickly discovered that 1st gear was difficult to engage and 2nd almost impossible to get into.
After spending a few hours online checking to see if anyone had experienced the same issue I realised a lot of people had but the fix laid somewhere between Steeda and the end user, almost like it was being guarded as a trade secret or something.
So I then reached out to Steeda, who to my surprise responded within the hour (I’m in Australia) one of their engineers recommended that I should be sent out a replacement top cover of the newer revision (more on this shortly) as the top cover that came with my shifter kit seems to be of an earlier design (fixed reverse gate/stop)
This was all well and dandy until I mentioned that I bought the shifter new in box but from a marketplace seller, Steeda then dropped me like a bad habit with no further correspondence.
This left a bit of a bitter taste given the thousands I’ve spent on various other Steeda parts I’ve fitted to my car.

Anyhow, I took the shifter apart again only to realise there were rubbing marks on the black plastic reverse lockout sleeve where it had been rubbing against the reverse lockout gate/stop
This had clearly been happening during the the 1st and 2nd gear engagements indicating the diameter of the reverse collar was too large
So after measuring the travel of the shifter from the centreline in neutral, I realised the shifter needed approximately 2mm more travel to the left (drivers side for you LHD people)
So my solution was to use a dremel with a sanding wheel to create a flat spot on the collar as shown below in red
IMG_4658.webp


This completely fixed the issue, 1st and 2nd gears engage perfectly as the do the rest of the gears, this also seemed to fix a buzzing sound that came from the reverse lockout collar (I use the billet Steeda one) which used to happen at around 3k rpm in 1st and 2nd.

It looks like Steeda revised the top plate at some point as mine is the fixed type which is a single piece design as per below
IMG_4660.webp


This was re-designed to a steel adjustable bracket which I assume was needed to fix the issues myself and others have experienced with 1st and 2nd gear engagement


IMG_4659.webp


lessons learned; don’t assume parts will work as they should even if they’re made by a reputable company and if you buy Steeda parts from a private source, expect 0 backup from Steeda.
So keep this in mind before installing your shifter or at least before reinstalling the centre console trim etc
I hope this helps someone
That is not entirely true - Jaime was speaking with you & asked you for your shipping address - that is the last communication I have seen:

1722302325800-a4.png
 

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jd_cobra

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That is not entirely true - Jaime was speaking with you & asked you for your shipping address - that is the last communication I have seen:

1722302325800-a4.png
If there is nothing after he told Jamie he bought it from another vendor, doesn’t that coincide with what he said?
Jamie also asked for the original purchaser info, not Marin’ according to the pic.
 

tj@steeda

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Jamie, in the previous email, asked for his shipping address and where he purchased it from. The OP did not provide his shipping address per the request. The original purchase would allow us to cover the part under warranty. Since he wasn't the original purchase, per our terms and conditions, we would have to write up a price and shipping price to Australia.

Jamie is tapped for a lot of feedback & support - if the shipping info was never provided, nor what is able to be provided at that point - then Jamie needs to support other requests.

1722303372703-6o.png
 

shogun32

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So for the want of a clearance cut with an end mill on the black cylinder? Is it secured to anything? Or can it rotate around the shaft?
 
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Marin

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That is not entirely true - Jaime was speaking with you & asked you for your shipping address - that is the last communication I have seen:

1722302325800-a4.png
After receiving nothing back from my last email, I assumed you either lost interest because I wasn’t the original buyer or you were too busy to reply, either way I had a car that couldn’t be driven properly so I had to act quickly.
I’m not mad, just a little disappointed as the situation was one reply away from being handled a whole lot better.
This doesn’t really change my view of Steeda as a supplier of great products but it would make me more hesitant in considering used Steeda parts in the future, that’s all.
 

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Marin

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So for the want of a clearance cut with an end mill on the black cylinder? Is it secured to anything? Or can it rotate around the shaft?
Pretty much, yes.
It can’t rotate as there is a small guide screw on one side that it slides along
 

Arknsawchuck

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That is not entirely true - Jaime was speaking with you & asked you for your shipping address - that is the last communication I have seen:

1722302325800-a4.png
Hate to jump in on someone else's post but since this sounds similar to my problem and you're here...... I have a 2019 mustang gt PP2 and I installed the tri ax shifter. My problem is it being difficult to get into 1st, and it being very clunky when going into any gear. Is there an adjustment I need to make to correct this?
 

tj@steeda

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Shoot me an email with your contact info and I can run this by our lead tech for feedback.

You can email me to [email protected]
 

Arknsawchuck

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2.5 weeks later and I still have no help figuring this out. Had a few emails that discussed nothing about my issue. Making me regret my purchase.
 

jd_cobra

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2.5 weeks later and I still have no help figuring this out. Had a few emails that discussed nothing about my issue. Making me regret my purchase.

Just hit up George at MGW and you won’t regret that purchase. Had every single one of his shifters in my cars and they’ve all been amazing.

Or I’d even go with a Barton if MGW has a wait time.
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