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Steeda products rusting?

BobbyG

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I've recently installed Steeda's Jacking Rails on my sons 2015 Ecoboost. I will also be installing Steeda's Extreme G-Trac K Member and IRS Subframe Support Members (when they get them back in stock). We live in MN and just curious if anyone has issues with these rusting over time. I'm thinking about having them sprayed with Line-X to protect them. Any insight from the experts is appreciated. TIA
RG
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KingKona

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Of course they're eventually going to rust. Everything will eventually rust.
 

Ogopogo

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That is why I would not mess with any exhaust system that is not a good alloy. My SS stock exhaust on my 2007 Infiniti with 210,000 km on the clock was still going strong (one muffler excepted) when I sold it a few months ago. No one should have to replace any of these basic parts for the 15-20 year lifetime of the vehicle. That goes for things like alternators, water pumps, starter motors, brake boosters, etc.
 

Skye

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The Steeda jacking rails I received are well-made and have a nice, protective coating on them. My car isn't built, so they are still in the wrappers. They haven't rusted yet. :captain:

All kidding aside...I have not read of anyone needing additional treatment on top of what comes from the company. Steeda and other vendors know their items are going to see potentially extreme operating environments. Could you eventually see surface rust on any item? Yes. Enough rot to warrant replacement? I doubt it. We live in like locations. Nothing special about my truck. It has 15 years and 140,000 miles on it. While the factory coatings have become warn and there is surface rust in some areas underneath, I'll be long dead before anything made of steel needs replacing due to rot.
 
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NGOT8R

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My Steeda parts are rusting and some of the powder coating has chipped off and/or is loose. What I have noticed is the metal u ser earth is smooth and not porous like it had been sandblasted before the coating was applied. The few times I’ve had parts powder coated I had them sandblasted beforehand, so that the coating would have something to adhere to.. I’m about to crawl underneath My car in a few minutes, so I’ll grab some pics of the parts that are rusting. While I have driven the car in the rain before, it was only a couple of times. It has never been on the road in snowy weather.
 

NGOT8R

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Okay guys, here is what my parts look like with 5700 miles on the car. I I stalled all parts at 471 miles on the odometer. What you’re looking at are the driveshaft safety loop, subframe support braces (rear mounting points) and the hardcore differential bracket. Having said that, I do believe the parts are made well and they are serving me well too, but the powder coating game could be tightened up a bit for long lasting durability.

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WD Pro

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My Steeda parts are rusting and some of the powder coating has chipped off and/or is loose. What I have noticed is the metal u ser earth is smooth and not porous like it had been sandblasted before the coating was applied. The few times I’ve had parts powder coated I had them sandblasted beforehand, so that the coating would have something to adhere to.. I’m about to crawl underneath My car in a few minutes, so I’ll grab some pics of the parts that are rusting. While I have driven the car in the rain before, it was only a couple of times. It has never been on the road in snowy weather.
I had the same thoughts on the surface prep and took a reasonably extreme route to fix it before fitment :

I have already posted these pictures elsewhere, but they might as well go in here to add to the cars story :like:

Time to work on the Steeda stuff :like: As supplied, appears to be very little surface prep prior to coating :

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Confirmed after a chemical strip :

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Some nice fabrication work though :

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Straight from the chemical bath :

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After dressing / blunting all the sharp edges / removing weld spatter / smoothing some of the welds etc :

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Standard - a nice rust starter, even with good coating :

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After some brazing (done in the front room ... :giggle:) :

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Dressed up :

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Coated in RAL3020 (traffic red). I used 3020 as it’s a proper red, I have used it before on other auto projects and as I know the reference, I can easily match it in future :

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WD :like:
But for anyone wondering about there Steeda kit, note my comments at the top of the next post when questioned on my actions from a user who lives in a nicer environment (than the U.K.) :

I wouldn't let my shenanigans put you off :like:

A) I think you live in a warmer more salt free environment that I do.
B) I doubt it, but even if the coating on the set you got was worse than mine, a quick spray with Waxoyl or even something similar to the black crap that ford throw on the underside of the euro's would protect them.
C) Even if they start to corrode, they are made from reasonably thick wall tubing so it would take a long time and a lot of corrosion to start to effect them structurally.
D) If you wanted to do a future refurb / colour code them / bling them up a bit, just take them to your local alloy wheel refurbishment place (which is who did the stripping and coating for me).

You also need to consider that I was kind of hoping my coating wasn't great so I had the excuse to change the colour and I also have the mindset that if I am bothering doing a job, I will do it to the best of my ability - hence the additional dressing up work and brazing etc.

Mine are finished now, ready to be put back in their box until I fit them (they are last on the list of the suspension jobs).

I put some Waxoyl in the tubes before refitting the caps and flatted back the lining on the boss where it clamps so it doesn't crack the edges when torqued up.

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Thick gauge large diameter stainless washers on order for all the mounting locations.

I took the opportunity to put them up against the lime and it's fair to say the red really pop's (@Justin also mentioned this with his red bits) :sunglasses:

If viewed at the same angle / in the same light, the red is very similar to the red on the 5.0 dot (which is a little more red than the orangey red of the Brembo print on the front callipers).

The iPhone was kind to me and allowed me to capture the colour accurately (unlike what it does to the lime ...lol), naturel light / no direct sun :

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Naturel light / with some direct sun :

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WD :like:
WD :like:
 

NGOT8R

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I like your style WD! Everything turned out very nice. The end caps are nice touch too. That coating should definitely last a very long time.
 

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ay1820

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I agree with what has bee said here, modern materials and coatings should last 10 - 20 years with little worry. If you damage the coating, though, that will give rust a place to start.

I too live in a region with snow, ice and lots of salt on the roads. Best defense against rust is to keep your car clean.
 

Bigred911s

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My Steeda parts coating faided and parts rusted in two years n my 2016 GT. I’m definitely going with BMR on my new Stang.
 
 








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