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2Cool
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Yes, and no video, though they really could use one. Hardest part is the fronts, as you remove one long bolt, install one medium one from the rear and a short one with the bushing and washer from the front.
You need to basically remove both of the front cradle bolts entirely, and loosen the rears at least a half an inch to drop the cradle enough to have room to install the front bolts. Some have had to drop their exhaust as well, since it interferes with lowering the cradle.
You need to basically remove both of the front cradle bolts entirely, and loosen the rears at least a half an inch to drop the cradle enough to have room to install the front bolts. Some have had to drop their exhaust as well, since it interferes with lowering the cradle.
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Old Car Guy
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Nice....
Nice job David, on taking time to post this on a Sunday morning, for us on G6 this is why I own Steeda parts on my Mustang...... :cheers:
Jmeo
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Simple simple. Start by supporting differential with jack to be sure the diff doesn't move when you take out the diff bolts (one at a time).
Rear:
Remove one rear differential bolt. Lube up insert and fit into OEM bushing. Install new longer bolt (longest one in kit) and large washer and tighten up.
Repeat on other rear bolt.
Front:
Remove one front differential bolt. Replace with shorter bolt (medium length bolt on kit)
Repeat on other front bolt.
Now,
Loosen both rear subframe bolts about 1"
Support pinion with jack
Remove both front subframe bolts and the brackets that connect to the car (two 13mm bolts).
Lower jack to allow the pinion to lower (subframe goes with it) until you can gain the room to insert the lubed up inserts. Secure with the shortest bolts in the kit with the large washers. Tighten up and your good to go.
Tips:
Always make sure you are putting a jack to the subframe and put some weight of the car on it before taking out or loosening subframe bolts. Once the subframe drops at all from car the bolt and threaded hole no longer line up and can strip the threads of bolt or hole or both. So, jack up the front of the subframe to loosen or remove front bolts and jack up the rear for rear bolts.
It is WAY easier to drop the exhaust. Don't have to, but way easier.
Jaime
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RSKTAKR
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Starting at my post #47.. Not videos but will help make some sense out of everything:
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24691&page=3
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24691&page=3
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Here's an installation video we put together: [ame]
Jmeo
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stang9779
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Will an alignment be needed since both sides of the subframe is being loosened? Also if the exhaust is removed does the subframe need loosened? I havent haf chance to watch the video as I'm at work.
jbailer
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Yes and yes. Although you may be ok without an alignment, I'd do it. You don't want to chew up expensive rubber. Removing (or lowering) the exhaust only makes it so you can lower the subframe even more so you can get to the bolt. Otherwise you can only lower the subframe a few inches, enough that it helps but it will take FOREVER turning the wrench about 1/13 of a turn each time. LOL, ask me how I know. :frusty:
jvm051
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Still confused from the video exactly where the jack on the front of the subframe should be placed, and was the gas tank loosened during install? Looks like it moved when the front bushings were installed.
Jmeo
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I put the jack on the pinion of the differential and no, you do not touch the gas tank
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stang9779
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I wish I would of waited to see the video before purchasing. I thought that it could be done without dropping the subframe. I just had a alignment done a week ago. Lol
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