Steeda IRS Cradle Bushing support question/opinions

[SUPERFUZZ]

I have the Steeda IRS Subframe Support Braces as pictured below already installed in my car. Very happy with the results.

Is there really any additional benefit to be had by installing their IRS subframe bushing supports?

Sponsored

 

[gone_n_60]

I can't do the supports on a convertible but I did the bushing kit. Not sure I can say I felt a difference but they replace some of Fords slop in the factory bushings. fwiw the oval bushings were so hard to reach even my good friend the performance mechanic couldn't get to them. Very tight tolerance, at least on the convertible.

 

[GrabberBargeCaptain]

Yes they add nvh, mostly in a good way though. These cars are far too numb stock and feel disconnected from the road from too much soft rubber isolating you.

For me the only annoyance was a resonance on certain (crappy) pavement, it may vary depending on your tires.

 

[tj@steeda]

Yes - they are a solid upgrade:

Eliminates Rear Subframe Movement

• The factory IRS subframe can shift under hard acceleration, braking, or spirited driving. This kit locks it down, improving suspension geometry and consistency.

Reduces or Eliminates Wheel Hop

• One of the first steps in solving wheel hop, especially for high-horsepower builds.

Improves Traction

• A stiffer subframe means better power transfer to the rear wheels, which translates to improved grip and acceleration.

 

[Canadian Crimson]

Do the alignment dowels at the same time.

 

[pinksurfer]

I did the bushings partway. I couldn't get the oval on the rear to go in to save my life so after several hours I gave up and installed the front upper/lower and rear upper and called it a day. they are a BITCH to say the least.

be prepared if you haven't removed the blue irs bolts to tap the front drivers hole. happens to a ton and did to me. I replaced with kelltrac studs and would do that again in a heartbeat. ford should have done that from the start.

will also caution that if you do the alignment bushings I could only get 3 of the 4 in. my appointment with the alignment shop is tomorrow and will let them tell me if I need the 4th one in based on the initial alignment. I think 3 should get it closer than the slop ford leaves.

 

[WD Pro]

fwiw the oval bushings were so hard to reach even my good friend the performance mechanic couldn't get to them. Very tight tolerance, at least on the convertible.

I did the bushings partway. I couldn't get the oval on the rear to go in to save my life so after several hours I gave up and installed the front upper/lower and rear upper and called it a day. they are a BITCH to say the least.

If you don’t want to get mad with them and / or damage the finish, get some bolts of the correct thread, but longer.

Use the long bolts to partly close the bush, remove them, then finish the job with the standard bolts.

Disclaimer - I didn’t fit mine (done as part of a warranty job), but my friendly tech did them using the method I quoted above and the bolts that I provided him with. He said they were tight, but went in OK with some silicone type lube. I thought of this method as I had mine anodised red and was concerned about the finish. Using the method above, they went in completely unmarked

WD

 

[WItoTX]

The bushing supports and alignment dowels have far more impact that the braces. I didn't notice the braces when I put them on, but did notice the supports.

In fact I'm probably going to remove the braces just because all they seem to do is add weight.

The supports are super easy to install. Took me maybe 30 minutes, just because it being my first time, I took my time and kept the subframe aligned the whole time, which I realized was a wasted effort after the fact.

 

[WD Pro]

The bushing supports and alignment dowels have far more impact that the braces. I didn't notice the braces when I put them on, but did notice the supports.

I’m going to agree with that based on my order of fitment (bushes first), here is what I have previously written :

I am a PP1 mag ride car, but the biggest single difference I have noticed to date is the subframe lockouts.

Other mods that I have, that could be considered as beneficial for your question / this topic :

• Front subframe brace (note that PP1 spec already has the three brace front setup).
• Rear subframe braces.
• Vertical links.

I know some people rave about the rear subframe braces but to me, the subframe lockouts made a much bigger difference.

I suspect it comes down to which mod goes on the car first.

First mod (be it braces or lockouts) gets you 90% of the total benefit, second mod gets you the last 10% i.e. whichever you do first, will leave the biggest impression on you.

Lockouts are smaller and lighter, but more difficult to fit.

Braces are easier and quicker to fit.

Both mods are 100% reversible.

Both will corrode if used in a harsh environment without additional maintenance / protection.

WD

WD

 

[junits15]

Yes this is a good upgrade.

I did the following all at once:

• Subframe braces (Steeda)
• subframe bushing lockouts (Steeda)
• Subframe alignment kit (Steeda)
• Rear outer toe bearings (Ford performance)
• Integral link (J&M)

You can probably skip the integral link and the subframe alignment kit, but what I would really suggest you consider is your rear toe links. Its not included on every kit but making those links solid will help you keep the rear end in check when you're banging gears. The stock setup toes in under acceleration, when the rear toes in it gets loose and contributes to the unpredictability of the rear end of this car out of the box.

The PP1 cars have the inner rear toe link bushings replaced with a bearing from the factory. The outer bushing is still rubber, replacing it with another bearing really locks the rear end down. You have a PP1 so you can re-use your stock rear toe links and simply replace the outer bushing with a bearing. Link below:

Ford performance toe link bearing.

Personally, I would only use the ford part as its shielded and will not have issues with corrosion or degradation from road debris.

This setup made my car so much better, really helped lock the rear end together and got rid of the "floaty" and "disconnected" feel the rear subframe used to have. Prior to these upgrades it was very obvious that the rear subframe was only loosely coupled tot he body of the car.

 

[SUPERFUZZ]

Thanks everyone for the responses!!

 

[tj@steeda]

Still on sale during our Labor Day Sale :0

https://www.steeda.com/shop/?tag=2025-steeda-labor-day-sale

Sponsored