Rear subframe bushing inserts vs steeda bushing supports

[K4fxd]

That's awesome. Do you also have differential bushing inserts?

No I filled the voids with urethane.

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[sloopy]

Should be functionally the same, right? Do you know what durometer? So you have the solid supports and urethane differential bushings. And the only change in NVH you noticed is an increased "sharpness" of the noise transmitted into the cabin on bumps? What's your exhaust setup? I had the borla touring cat-back (the one from borla with a resonator) and, in my opinion, it had an overwhelming drone.

 

[K4fxd]

I don't know the durometer, I think it was the 3M window or windshield sealant.
Yes sharper. Instead of the dull thump I get a sharper sound. Like the difference from a bass drum to a tom.

I have the MBRP street setup and it droned until I extended the tips about 2 inches past the rear bumper. I hate drone and I really don't like any noise on a daily street car.

 

[ENDEVR]

Personally have subframe bushing supports, alignment inserts, and rear subframe braces, then added red diff inserts, that was the only thing that added a tad of NVH and it was only at low speeds until they broke in a bit. Don’t even notice it anymore although the wife has commented on it before, she hasn’t complained about it being unbearable or too loud, this is also with rear seat delete and full exhaust too.

 

[GrabberBargeCaptain]

I did get NVH from the Steeda bushing inserts. Mostly a resonant noise on bad pavement at highway speed. Smooth pavement, no issue. I did add the toe link bearings at the same time which may also contribute.

Zero regrets! The subframe reinforcements are absolutely necessary for these cars to handle correctly

 

[shogun32]

To be clear, when I'm talking about the subframe supports, I'm talking about these:

no, go with https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-4045-mustang-subframe-insert-bushings

The aluminum bits are a bitch to install vs the #4045, and the 4045 are relatively soft poly if Steeda duplicated the Whiteline parts faithfully. You can still buy the Whiteline product if you prefer.

 

[shogun32]

And the only change in NVH you noticed is an increased "sharpness" of the noise transmitted into the cabin on bumps?

adding bracing/lockouts/inserts to subframe/diff does not materially change NVH over bumps. The change in NVH which can vary from none/slight to 'yeah that's a bit much' has to do with diff whine at certain sympathetic frequencies. My fully-kitted with Steeda parts Mach1 has a subtle whine at 70mph coming on/off the gas. At <60mph I can't hear anything.

Now if you change some of the knuckle *articulating* parts, that can add to 'bump' noise which a firmly bolted subframe is more likely to pass on.

My GT has BMR bracing and Whiteline full-replacement bushings (no 'insert' bandaids) at all 4 corners of subframe and diff, and it's quieter than the Mach1. Whiteline uses a ~70 Shore material. BMR and Steeda use 85/90 in most of their solutions.

 

[GrabberBargeCaptain]

adding bracing/lockouts/inserts to subframe/diff does not materially change NVH over bumps. The change in NVH which can vary from none/slight to 'yeah that's a bit much' has to do with diff whine at certain sympathetic frequencies. My fully-kitted with Steeda parts Mach1 has a subtle whine at 70mph coming on/off the gas. At <60mph I can't hear anything.

Now if you change some of the knuckle *articulating* parts, that can add to 'bump' noise which a firmly bolted subframe is more likely to pass on.

My GT has BMR bracing and Whiteline full-replacement bushings (no 'insert' bandaids) at all 4 corners of subframe and diff, and it's quieter than the Mach1. Whiteline uses a ~70 Shore material. BMR and Steeda use 85/90 in most of their solutions.

Where have you been? I thought maybe you got banned but i hadn't seen you get too rowdy in any of the threads

 

[Ramairetransam]

No I filled the voids with urethane.

when you filled the voids did you have to take anything down or were you able to just get the caulk gun in there and fill the voids. I have a lift but if i went this route do you think i should get it up on the lift and then support the rear diff to make it not sag at all and then fill the voids or just lift it and fill the voids ?

 

[shogun32]

Where have you been? I thought maybe you got banned but i hadn't seen you get too rowdy in any of the threads

I was just burned out I guess. Maybe I was detoxing from all the friendly ribbing and banter.
Yeah my persona on m7g got squashed after a bit. I was insufficiently drinking the cool-aid.

 

[GrabberBargeCaptain]

I was just burned out I guess. Maybe I was detoxing from all the friendly ribbing and banter.
Yeah my persona on m7g got squashed after a bit. I was insufficiently drinking the cool-aid.

oh, so you did get banned, just not here. lol. Well good to have you back.

 

[sloopy]

no, go with https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-4045-mustang-subframe-insert-bushings

The aluminum bits are a bitch to install vs the #4045, and the 4045 are relatively soft poly if Steeda duplicated the Whiteline parts faithfully. You can still buy the Whiteline product if you prefer.

adding bracing/lockouts/inserts to subframe/diff does not materially change NVH over bumps. The change in NVH which can vary from none/slight to 'yeah that's a bit much' has to do with diff whine at certain sympathetic frequencies. My fully-kitted with Steeda parts Mach1 has a subtle whine at 70mph coming on/off the gas. At <60mph I can't hear anything.

...

My GT has BMR bracing and Whiteline full-replacement bushings (no 'insert' bandaids) at all 4 corners of subframe and diff, and it's quieter than the Mach1. Whiteline uses a ~70 Shore material. BMR and Steeda use 85/90 in most of their solutions.

I'm not sure why you recommend against those aluminum subframe supports besides that they're difficult to install. I'm not concerned about that.

 

[shogun32]

I'm not sure why you recommend against those aluminum subframe supports besides that they're difficult to install. I'm not concerned about that.

well, not a peep out of you about the ensuing difficulty then.

The reason I recommend the inserts is not just because they take 10 seconds to put into place, it's because they still have a little give and damping.

If you truly don't care about NVH, then just go full-tilt aluminum replacement.

 

[sloopy]

well, not a peep out of you about the ensuing difficulty then.

I would never :^)

I'm trying to gauge how much of an improvement in feel you get progressing from: stock rear subframe bushings -> poly inserts -> aluminum supports.

If we take the aluminum supports as being the standard (1), would it look something like this?
0.2 -> 0.8 -> 1

Would I feel anything lacking with the poly inserts considering that I intend on keeping the rest of the suspension bushings stock?

I do care about NVH in very specific ways. I'm sure I will have no problems with the poly inserts in terms of NVH. But I'm not sure about the aluminum supports. Especially if I pair any of these with the poly diff bushing inserts.

 

[K4fxd]

when you filled the voids did you have to take anything down or were you able to just get the caulk gun in there and fill the voids.

I don't know, I did it when I changed pumpkins.

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