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Rear subframe bushing inserts vs steeda bushing supports

shogun32

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the diff inserts/replacement are the primary source of noise. The subframe fixes are about getting the subframe square and KEEPING it that way under duress. I don't have a long history with cars, let alone performance cars, and not mustangs specifically, but within "days" of buying a GT/pp1 i was like "why is there a damn hinge in this chassis"?

Even the 'squishy' 70-Shore Whiteline replacement subframe bushings solve the movement problem more than well enough such that more rigidity (say aluminum) is well into diminishing returns territory,

Yes, if you're going to do this the LCR bushing should be addressed or you've only fixed half the problem.
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sloopy

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I see. And like I was saying earlier, the diff inserts would probably be less noisy paired with the subframe inserts compared to the subframe supports. So if I wanted the diff inserts (still not decided on that), I would probably like the subframe poly inserts better.

What's wrong with the LCR (rear lower control arm?) bushings? I don't have any wheel hop or issues besides the strange-feeling handling caused by the subframe movement.
 

shogun32

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What's wrong with the LCR (rear lower control arm?) bushings? I don't have any wheel hop or issues besides the strange-feeling handling caused by the subframe movement.
there's whole threads on that. Your strange handling is NOT entirely the fault of the subframe. The LCR is also very much to blame.
 
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sloopy

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Ok I started installing the stuff. Steeda diff bushing inserts (soft red), steeda subframe alignment sleeves, and steeda polyurethane subframe bushing inserts. I cross-threaded the drivers front subframe attachment. I'm about to try addressing that. But I'm also stuck on removing these steel "lower captive washers" from the bushing. I've used penetraring oil and a 3ft pry bar to no avail. Any tips?
 
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sloopy

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Good news! I was able to successfully chase the subframe threads. I'm still not able to remove the "lower captive washers" though. @SteedaTech, any advice?
 

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sloopy

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well, not a peep out of you about the ensuing difficulty then. :)

The reason I recommend the inserts is not just because they take 10 seconds to put into place, it's because they still have a little give and damping.

If you truly don't care about NVH, then just go full-tilt aluminum replacement.
This has been the longest 10 seconds of my life... lol
 
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sloopy

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They came off after I started hitting them with a hammer and pulling harder on the pry bar :^)
 

tj@steeda

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Just seeing this now - was going to route to our lead tech. Are you okay with the install, now?
 

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sloopy

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Huge improvement in how the car feels. Shifts feel smoother and hard shifts are less dramatic. The car feels much more planted and stable when hitting uneven surfaces or going on/off throttle or going from throttle to brake all while in a turn. No gear whine from the diff. Before, I would occasionally hear a pleasantly subtle whine during acceleration around 60. Not sure why it seems to have gone away. Maybe it's holding the driveshaft alignment better under load. Or maybe I haven't driven it in the right conditions to hear it. And finally, the torsen noise has probably doubled in volume. I first really noticed or started paying attention this noise after replacing the diff oil with bg ultra guard ls sae 75w85. I haven't added any additional friction modifier (It's not clear how much is included). I only hear it when doing tight turns and accelerating like when turning right onto a road from a stop or navigating parking lots. It was kind of subtle before where I could hear it clearly, but an unassuming passenger would probably not notice anything. Now, they would probably wonder what that spooky groaning noise is. I know I could add more friction modifier to silence the noise, but I would rather not reduce the effectiveness of the torsen and I actually sorta like the noise :^)
 

tj@steeda

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Awesome - great to hear & thank you for the support!

Best,
TJ
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