Steeda Camber Plates + Springs + Struts install problems/questions

whalesalad

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The instructions actually suck for the Steeda gear. So far the best resource has been the LMR installation video.
First issue: camber plates.

There is no mention of how to use the little inserts for camber plates... without them everything is loosey goosey so I figure they need to be used... but when using them with the fixed pro-action struts there is hardly any room for the nut on the top:

IMG_4430.jpg


Simulated without the camber plate to see how little room there is:

IMG_4421.jpg


If this is normal... I won't worry about it. I am using the nut from the struts NOT the nylock nut from the camber plates because the nylock part doesn't even engage the threads (the nut is too tall compared to the remaining thread on the post.

Second issue: ultralite linear springs in the top rubber isolator... see photos (the spring does not fit properly)

I read and re-read the instructions over and over. It strictly says that the spring should be oriented with the larger diameter opening at the TOP, ignoring the text on the spring. Steeda is upside down but I don't care. The spring fits well in the bottom rubber isolator, but really looks fucky in the top.

I'm hoping once under the weight of the car things will settle down and fit better? I've heard other folks complaining about this and saw somewhere that it had been resolved.

Pix...

IMG_4426.jpg

IMG_4425.jpg

IMG_4427.jpg

 
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whalesalad

whalesalad

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Final note...

Dear Steeda,

If you sold a 100% pre-assembled spring/strut/camber-plate "kit" (for instance, allow someone to add all the parts to their cart and check a box for "professional assembly") you would make a killing. I'd have easily paid $100 per-strut to avoid needing a spring compressor and this brutally annoying installation.

The only part that I am re-using from the OEM parts is the rubber top-mount bearing. That is a really cheap part.

Would love to see you offer your springs/struts/plates in a "coilover" style configuration where I can just rip my old shit out, throw the Steeda piece in and call it a day.

Spring compressor stuff is always an absolute nightmare.
 

wildcatgoal

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[MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION] is the best person to give you installation advice.

You can call Steeda when you order and ask them to assemble your struts.

I think you've doubled up the spacers on the strut in that photo. I can't remember using two per strut.
 
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whalesalad

whalesalad

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I think there was an old design that used one single spacer that was long. Now it’s two that are shorter to go top/bottom. At least looking at marketing materials it seems to be that way.
 

wildcatgoal

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I think there was an old design that used one single spacer that was long. Now it’s two that are shorter to go top/bottom. At least looking at marketing materials it seems to be that way.
I haven't installed a set of Steeda camber plates that came with 4 total spacers such that you could double them on on each strut. I put the spacers in from the top only. Not sure why you have two spacers per strut like that; not sure why one would be necessary on the bottom side.
 


SteedaTech

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I think there was an old design that used one single spacer that was long. Now it’s two that are shorter to go top/bottom. At least looking at marketing materials it seems to be that way.
Use both spacers top and bottom, lock washer not required, use blue loctite and torque nut to spec. Yes, the spring does seat once weight is applied to strut.

Thanks,
Steeda Tech
 
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whalesalad

whalesalad

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I haven't installed a set of Steeda camber plates that came with 4 total spacers such that you could double them on on each strut. I put the spacers in from the top only. Not sure why you have two spacers per strut like that; not sure why one would be necessary on the bottom side.
The bottom doesn’t fit flush with the top of the strut rod. The opening is a *hair* smaller but not a good surface to support the stress I imagine this thing goes through. So one on the bottom made sense. Then the top... I added one because neither nut (one came in camber kit other came with strut) would make a good contact with the top of the camber plate opening. So both it is... but then just seems like there isn’t a ton of room left
 
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whalesalad

whalesalad

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Use both spacers top and bottom, lock washer not required, use blue loctite and torque nut to spec. Yes, the spring does seat once weight is applied to strut.

Thanks,
Steeda Tech
Awesome thanks. I have both installed now with the lock washer. Is it safe to remove the nut while the vehicle is carrying its own weight to rip out the lock washer? I don’t wanna take these back out and get the spring compressor on there.
 

SteedaTech

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Awesome thanks. I have both installed now with the lock washer. Is it safe to remove the nut while the vehicle is carrying its own weight to rip out the lock washer? I don’t wanna take these back out and get the spring compressor on there.
With the car on the ground you can remove the lock washer. Make sure you torque to spec when your done.

Steeda Tech
 
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whalesalad

whalesalad

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Thanks for the quick responses! Can always count on [MENTION=21494]wildcatgoal[/MENTION] and [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION].

Enjoy the weekend y’all
 

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Final note...

Dear Steeda,

If you sold a 100% pre-assembled spring/strut/camber-plate "kit" (for instance, allow someone to add all the parts to their cart and check a box for "professional assembly") you would make a killing. I'd have easily paid $100 per-strut to avoid needing a spring compressor and this brutally annoying installation.

The only part that I am re-using from the OEM parts is the rubber top-mount bearing. That is a really cheap part.

Would love to see you offer your springs/struts/plates in a "coilover" style configuration where I can just rip my old shit out, throw the Steeda piece in and call it a day.

Spring compressor stuff is always an absolute nightmare.
Just an FYI regarding this point, they do offer a pre-assembled build your own package. It tacks a surcharge, but there is an option for it.

You can choose fixed or adjustable ProActions, spring type, camber plates or not, billet shock mounts, and bump stops.

The front only option shows as $80 so definitely within your $100 per side!
 

Roadway 5.0

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Second issue: ultralite linear springs in the top rubber isolator... see photos (the spring does not fit properly)

I read and re-read the instructions over and over. It strictly says that the spring should be oriented with the larger diameter opening at the TOP, ignoring the text on the spring. Steeda is upside down but I don't care. The spring fits well in the bottom rubber isolator, but really looks fucky in the top.

I'm hoping once under the weight of the car things will settle down and fit better?
Yes, nothing to fear. I also had my doubts when installing, but once the car is off the lift you’ll be good to go and driving in a euphoric state :cheers:
 

cjldad

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I was putting stuff together today and noticed the front springs are in fact upside down regarding the text.. Just seems weird.. Hope you had a successful weekend!
 
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whalesalad

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Got everything finished up and the car is sitting much better now. Few tiny problems that I think I know how to solve, but wanted to share here just in case.

1. Wobble and floaty feeling during hard acceleration – I have yet to get an alignment (wanted to drive a while and let thing settle) ... 99% sure this will get resolved then, but throwing it out there. Not too worried about it, after banging on the lower strut bolts hard with a hammer, etc... I'm sure everything is way out of spec (not to mention my ghetto fabulous DIY camber measurement lol).

2. Occasional clunk. I get this annoying thud (from front end, can happen on either side, but not both sides simultaneously) every once and a while and I'm not sure why. It is usually over fairly substantial bumps but not always. Is this normal now that I have stiffer springs and pro action struts?

Debugging this: My gut is telling me to...

First, check that the spring is properly seated in the top rubber isolator (hoping it wont fall out after jacking up the car and ruin this experiment).

Second, check that the top nut on the strut assembly is tightened all the way ... it's on there pretty damn snug (did not have a torque wrench that would work while the allen key was inside of the nut so had to guestimate 77 ft/lb. If anything it's over torqued. Nothing appears loose but this was the source of an issue on my old GTI (a loose top nut)

Third, check that the rubber isolator/bearing bits are properly inside of the camber plate.

But again... some insight here would be helpful. If it's normal to have fairly harsh sounds coming from the front-end over rough road and certain driveway ramps ... I'll chill.
 

SteedaTech

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Got everything finished up and the car is sitting much better now. Few tiny problems that I think I know how to solve, but wanted to share here just in case.

1. Wobble and floaty feeling during hard acceleration – I have yet to get an alignment (wanted to drive a while and let thing settle) ... 99% sure this will get resolved then, but throwing it out there. Not too worried about it, after banging on the lower strut bolts hard with a hammer, etc... I'm sure everything is way out of spec (not to mention my ghetto fabulous DIY camber measurement lol).

2. Occasional clunk. I get this annoying thud (from front end, can happen on either side, but not both sides simultaneously) every once and a while and I'm not sure why. It is usually over fairly substantial bumps but not always. Is this normal now that I have stiffer springs and pro action struts?


Debugging this: My gut is telling me to...

First, check that the spring is properly seated in the top rubber isolator (hoping it wont fall out after jacking up the car and ruin this experiment).

Second, check that the top nut on the strut assembly is tightened all the way ... it's on there pretty damn snug (did not have a torque wrench that would work while the allen key was inside of the nut so had to guestimate 77 ft/lb. If anything it's over torqued. Nothing appears loose but this was the source of an issue on my old GTI (a loose top nut)

Third, check that the rubber isolator/bearing bits are properly inside of the camber plate.

But again... some insight here would be helpful. If it's normal to have fairly harsh sounds coming from the front-end over rough road and certain driveway ramps ... I'll chill.
It is very important to make sure you did torque the upper shock mount to spec.
That is the number one issue that causes clunks in the front end followed by improperly torqued sway bar endlinks and brake calipers.

Please pm your contact info and I will go over everything with you in the am before you go for an alignment.

Thanks,
Steeda Tech
 

 
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