Steeda Camber Plates question

[mali321]

Hello all,

I'm getting some noise when I turn, usually on full lock but sometimes during a normal turn as well. This started happening right as the temperature got cold so I'm not sure if that's a factor. From searching on the forum it seems to be the front upper spring isolator, although I had an issue during install with my Steeda lateral/tension link so maybe it's that.

Anyway, trying to trace this found I saw the Steeda camber plates are awfully close up to the strut tower: there is a circular portion of the camber plate that is raised, however it is not centered in the strut tower opening. Furthermore there is some marring and rust on the strut tower opening which seems to indicate the camber plate was rubbing up against the opening, before sliding under the lower opening in the strut tower. Does this look normal/correct to you guys? Was either the install or the alignment done incorrectly?

The car is a 2019 GT non-Premium, it has Steeda camber plates on Bilsteins with BMR SP083 springs. No upgraded sway bars or end links but it has lateral/tension links and bump steer/tie rod kit.

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[shogun32]

is the noise a 'jangle/rattle' or instead a 'creak/bang'? If former Steeda has issues with tolerance stacking so the camber plate sandwich can't be tightened enough to remove all gaps, or the fastener backs off just a smidge which let it jangle.

One set is perfectly quiet, another has the right one that will be quiet for a few days but then gets progressively noisier. Till out of desperation one attempts to tighten the nut and it's good for a few more days. repeat.

 

[mali321]

is the noise a 'jangle/rattle' or instead a 'creak/bang'? If former Steeda has issues with tolerance stacking so the camber plate sandwich can't be tightened enough to remove all gaps, or the fastener backs off just a smidge which let it jangle.

One set is perfectly quiet, another has the right one that will be quiet for a few days but then gets progressively noisier. Till out of desperation one attempts to tighten the nut and it's good for a few more days. repeat.

Hi @shogun32 , it is moreso like a creaking, and feels like there's slight resistance to the wheel turning, when the noise comes. Like there's friction that causes the noise, then breaks free, then friction again, etc, all in milliseconds, leading to the noise. I wouldn't describe it as a rattling. I checked and the strut tower nuts are not loose.

From what I've read on this forum it seems to point to the upper spring isolator, but I'm just wondering if the camber plate looks too close to the body in the strut tower (may even be touching it, and not on the rails that allow the movement for camber adjustment). The rust and marring in the photos got me worried that maybe it is rubbing/grinding on the body. (Or maybe it happened during the alignment)

 

[mali321]

For example in the first picture with the flash on, you can see the raised part of the camber plate very close to making contact with the strut tower metal opening. And it doesn't have the "rails" that the strut assembly slides on in between it and the body of the strut tower. Is that normal?

 

[tj@steeda]

I have sent this over to our tech team for review and feedback.

please send me your contact info to Tim @ steeda

thank you,

TJ

 

[mali321]

I have sent this over to our tech team for review and feedback.

please send me your contact info to Tim @ steeda

thank you,

TJ

Hi TJ, I sent the PM to tj@steeda (I didn't see Tim@steeda) -- thank you for your response!

 

[mali321]

Hi guys, so I'm an idiot, haha, my issue was a zip tie for the ABS sensor started touching the end link, making the noise

Thank you @shogun32 for your input and also @tj@steeda for reaching out! If possible I would still like to know about the camber plates; they're probably fine/installed correctly but any theories you may have about how the strut tower body got marred

Thanks!

Here is a photo after I re-ziptied it.
(I had to use a generic ziptie because my Bilsteins only came with 1 for botj struts for some reason)

 

[bnightstar]

for reaching out! If possible I would still like to know about the camber plates; they're probably fine/installed correctly but any theories you may have about how the strut tower body got marred

So mines are worst marred than yours for sure (not having photos) if you have to much camber with OEM style struts that is around -2.5 degrees your nut is hitting the strut tower opening. This is something that I learned to accept as there is nothing you can do about it. When I installed the Ohlins it got a lot better as the nut is lower than the top and allows for sliding under it for more camber -3.2 or so is the max without hitting which made big difference. I would just make sure to leave some gap between the strut tower and the nut if I were you. Though if you are tracking the car you will need it to hit.

 

[mali321]

So mines are worst marred than yours for sure (not having photos) if you have to much camber with OEM style struts that is around -2.5 degrees your nut is hitting the strut tower opening. This is something that I learned to accept as there is nothing you can do about it. When I installed the Ohlins it got a lot better as the nut is lower than the top and allows for sliding under it for more camber -3.2 or so is the max without hitting which made big difference. I would just make sure to leave some gap between the strut tower and the nut if I were you. Though if you are tracking the car you will need it to hit.

Okay makes sense! My camber isn't too extreme....it's around -2.0. I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks again @bnightstar !

 

[tj@steeda]

I spoke to our install team & this is their feedback:

Those marks on his strut tower opening are from a possible improper installation. Typically the strut nut and the camber plate are torqued off the car. By the OD having witness marks it shows it was not installed this way and that’s from the socket rubbing on the ID of the opening.

Let me know if I can help assist you further.

TJ

 

[mali321]

I spoke to our install team & this is their feedback:

Those marks on his strut tower opening are from a possible improper installation. Typically the strut nut and the camber plate are torqued off the car. By the OD having witness marks it shows it was not installed this way and that’s from the socket rubbing on the ID of the opening.

Let me know if I can help assist you further.

TJ

Awesome thanks @tj@steeda for following through with this! I take this means though the camber plate may not have been installed/adjusted using the correct procedure, the way it is sitting now is not a problem, as long as the strut not is not attempted to be adjusted while on the car.

Thanks again for following up TJ! Much appreciated!

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