Steeda Camber plate, Max camber -2.6

[Bossdog]

I have installed the Steeda Camber plates and Opened up the Strut tower hole by 1/2" with the Steeda Hole saw and my alignment guy says he can't get more than -2.6 on the passenger side. 3.0 on the drives side. I also installed the Steeda front lower control arm with extended ball joint for roll center compensation for the lowering springs.
Is there any reason I should be limited to max camber of -2.6?
The service MGR at my Indy shop has lots of experience with modified hot rods. His only explanation is that there could be a difference in the strut towers from the factory.

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[shogun32]

The one hole in the lower mount should be slotted. Make sure it's slammed to the stops.

 

[Bluemustang]

My strut towers are different side to side. I've seen a few others who have this issue too. I'm not sure why though. I just never looked further into it to solve the problem.

 

[991GT]

Maybe some pictures to help us see what is going on?
I installed mine a few weeks ago and get -3 deg with the factory openings.

 

[Biggsy]

when using the extended ball joint, it tends to limit camber. I had the same set up and was still able to get -3. Weird you are not able to on one side. Maybe check your control arms? Possible binding?

 

[Bossdog]

I spoke with the technician This afternoon. The large disc/washer welded on top of the plate won’t slide under the base /bottom side of the strut tower. Probably some light sanding or grinder action would clean it up and allow the plate to slide under. It’s definitely not the tip of the strut, it has another half inch to move.
I’m not going to take it all apart this season, I’ll run -1.6 rear and -2.6 front and see how she does. I have questions on engine cooling as well, still sorting that out so it may be an abbreviated season. Hoping for the best.

 

[mavisky]

Would need to see some pics, but that sounds like an odd issue. I've had no issue getting -3.2 on my fronts with room to move after opening them up. I do not have their lower control arms though so that may be factoring in as well.

 

[shogun32]

what is this? You wanted Accord-level quiet instead of incessant jangling and banging typified by Subaru?

 

[Bossdog]

I didn’t see that in the directions.
Please elaborate.

 

[991GT]

Can you post some pic from inside the engine bay? I'm assuming he jacked up the front of the car to take the weight off the strut to make adjustments?

 

[kz]

For reference, my car has -3.5 degrees of camber on both sides with Steeda plates _without_ touching strut towers.

 

[Bossdog]

Update:
I finally got a response from the Steeda technicians. I am told that one possible cause of the issue I’m having, the passenger side pushed all the way in and only achieving - 2.6 camber, can be caused by the front cradle, not being aligned perfectly.
I then spoke with my local service shop that has been doing the work on my Mustang. He indicated that some Mustang front cradles are pinned in place and others are not. He explained if the S550 front cradle is pinned in place trying to realign it will not be of any help. Can anyone confirm if our front cradle is pinned in place?
It seems to makes sense to me that if the cradle is slightly offset, it would cause this phenomenon. The technician at my local shop said as long as the alignment is correct a slightly off center cradle will not have a deleterious effect on the performance handling of the car. Is that truly the case?
At this point I’m going to the track with -2.7 camber up front and see if I have understeer issues. If I do, I’ll take it back in, loosen up the front cradle, align it properly to get maximum camber out of both sides. Which should be -3 or better based on everyone else’s experience.
Please weigh in if you know any of this to be crap.
thanks

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